Ducman

I had a Husky 610 and that sucker could flat out fly in the sand, I swear you couldn't even get it to bog in 4th in the sand up the steapest hill and I know a cr500 would have beat my Husky. The 86-89 cr500's were some of the most wicked years for power too. Power hit like a freight train. I think the later years focused a lot on smoothing out the power so it was more rider friendly and didn't really wory too much about making more power. You will loose, but screw it, race him anyway! Just think of the braging rights if he misses a gear... well mabe 2 gears!

I just put the Vito's 240 kit into my wifes blaster along with a new crank from Vito's. The crank and piston kits were the best deals I found for new stuff. My wifes blaster had the oil injection go out so it toasted the bottom end and it was at .050 on the bore already too. The 240 kit makes a decent bit more power since the ports in the sleeve are quite a bit bigger and when the cylinder ports are matched with the sleeve its like getting a heavy port job. It has a nice "big bore" sound now, but I think that it isn't a lot better than just getting a really nice port job on a standard overbore. I have heard that the storker crank makes the big bore kit work a lot better but then you probably need some bigger carbs too. The lil' sucker will pull 6th with me on it now (250lb) where it wouldn't hardly do it before.

This is all excellent info for anybody looking to do a +4 stroker in the future, so pay attension kids! R&D like this is priceless. Hmmm Pro design intake makes a big difference eh? I'm dieng to know what pipes are going to make the nicest power curve. More info!

I doubt that at low speeds up to about the top of 2nd gear it makes a lot of difference but my sandstars feel really responsive when going fast. I tried looking at the sand behind my front tire when running a a pretty good clip last time (and not wrecking from not paying attension to the terrain ahead ) and I could definitly see that both fins were throwing a separate roost and carving. The one thing I notice that was of significance was when turning the outside rib on the outside tire and the inside rib on the inside tire in the turn throw a lot more roost and must give a lot more bite so they sort of seem to move your leverage point further out on the outside tire and further in on the inside tire by a couple of inches. I think nobbies make a lot more drag on the front tires in the sand.

Thanks DBK, that's what I kneeded to know.

Maybe the flat spot is due to sonic waves in the intake are out of phase with the exhaust. Possibly reed spacers or something to lengthen the intake tract cound push the flat spot lower in the RPM's and/or lessen the effect of the flatspot?

I suppose it could be done easily enough if you had a nice drill press with a delicate vise on the press to hold the mains. If you want a set of mains that are in steps and know what the size of each is, and accurately, then your going to have to buy a really nice indexed drill set which will cost a lot more than a few mains. Although, if you cant buy any mains in the size that you need, I'd probably be worth it. Might be best, and even save money, to take a few mains to a machine shop and have them make a set.

Nope, especially if the oil recommends 42:1, I'd do it.

From the info I've gathered crank seperation is like playing russion ruelete, the gun could go off at anytime but if you add power mods, pipes, porting, higer compression, you are adding more bullets to the barrel and odds of seperation go up with each addition. I guess as a general rule most people wait untill replacing the top end after adding compression to get the crank welded or get it done concurrently with port work and or major motor mods and adding really high compression.

Maybe your problem has more to do with traction. 2 strokes love to spin the wheels and the RPMs shoot up with the wheel spin. In the sand once you are up to speed like in say 3rd year it gets pretty hard to spin the tires and the rpms cant just shoot up real fast because the wheels wont just spin freely like nobbies on dirt. Maybe try a larger diameter tire size or go up a tooth on the front sproket to help trackability. I think it is fine to cruiz around in a higher RPM where if you were to give it alot of throttle you'll be in the power band, but if your in the power band how are you going to curise around because your going to be accelerating? I guess how do you define power band?

Is the only thing that you changed was adding the head with high compression domes or did you also take the lid of the air box and/or add a K&N filter at the same time. What cc domes did you install, what is your elevation, and what octane gas are you running. List all of your mods. I'm guessing you are too lean on the mains, and are geting symtoms of lean mains and/or detonation. With a K&N and lid off depending on what other mods you have I'd say a 330 main would be pretty close to what you'd be dialed at on the mains at sea level. Dont be drillin shit, you cant drill holes that small with any accuracy especially not enough for main jets IMO. Your carbs aren't too small unless you have have had some major porting done.

I'm not sure if my dad's going to make it with the RV, but I'm going to get there one way or another for the weekend of the 17th, 18th, or the 24th, 25th. Hopefully with the RV cause its a fun ass party wagon. I can't wait, I've only ever ridden sand on the coast before, so this should be pretty cool. It would be really cool to hook up with some HQers that know the doons. I'll post (soon) when I know for sure what we'll be driving and what date we'll be there. Do cell phones work out there at the mountain?

I have the low end/mid range pipes so my power isn't so "light switch" in its delivery, but when I added the noss head it did seem to smooth out the power quite a bit probably because there was much more torque down low than before and made it much better to cuise around at lower RPMs and 1/8 to 1/2 throttle. That might help you out a bit.

Sounds pretty believeable to me. I'd go with an iridium plug first though, to get the increased spark power and plug longevity, tradeing higher cost for the same performance and less maintenance.

Carbs could use some cleaning. I wouldn't worry about it too much, it will probably clean out the system the first time you take it for a ride and juice it up, but if you want to play it safe you should put new, good fuel in it and maybe take off the carbs and clean them.

I can easily go a constant 2 Hrs in the dunes with a lot of hill climbing and playing around (about 1/2 n 1/2) I doubt if I tried my hardest that I could burn a tank in under 1 hr. On the fire trails/logging roads at about 40 mph average speed I usea about 1.5 gal in 1 hr. the last time I rode.

I tried a search on Fallon's elevation and came up with about 4000' is that about what sand mountain is? I think I'll need to drop a main size or 2. Have you guys went to Oregon dunes, if so what changes if any did you need to make to pilots between Oregon and Sand Mountain, I'm hoping if anything I'd just need to make some air screw adjustments when I get there and not have to mess with changing jets there.

I bet that the person that sold it to you had pipes on it and put the stock pipes back on to sell the aftermarket pipes seperately and never rejetted it for the stock pipes. Generally overheating is caused by lean conditions but I believe being too rich can cause heat too because when your too rich your down on power so you give it more throttle to compensate and now your burning way more fuel than you would have if you were jeted correctly. I think the difference is that you have to work at it and ride for a long time under load to get a rich jetted bike to overheat like lugging up a fairly steep grade for several miles and a lean bike will overheat easily after being riden a short time.

Well then! Well have to meet up at the ol' mountain for some good times! I'll line up my dad with the RV, he is a bad ass camp cook, and I'm working in Chico right now so I'll hook us up with a couple cases of Sierra Nevada (only $17 ea. at Chico CostCo). I'll PM you when I get a trip planned. My wife just started a new job so it'll be a weekend warrior type of a trip (leave Fiday and be home late Sunday night) but Saturday night will be a blast! Zack

sierrabanshee, Thanks for the info. No gas at the gas station with the logs holding up the roof, got it. Some people just love to shootingthem selves in the foot I guess? I wont make it there untill at least the weekend of 17th, darn Easter and the annual manditory easter brunch at the Grandparent inlaws house. Can you get to the camping and or riding area in a car, or do you have to go off road for a bit to get there? Is camping just out in an open area, not like in an improved camping area with tables and fire pits like a typical campground? May be I should wait and plan a trip with my dads RV?

Yeah, clip position seems to be rider preference to me. I went back to the 4th clip from the blunt end (1 clip richer than stock) and it seams like it has a lot more power at 1/2 throttle when the RPM's are already higher where your already in the power band range but might not pull as hard in the lower rpms and get you to the power band RPM range. I'm doing mostly sand doon riding right now so I figure I'll generally be riding and even cruising around in higher rpms. It also depends a little on the pilot. If you tune the bike with a smaller pilot you may need to add a little bit of needle (richen it up a clip) and visa versa to smooth out the transition from pilot to needle circut. There's more than one way to skin a cat so I'd say tune it to the way that you prefer the engine performance characteristics for your riding preference. The difference in the 3rd or 4th clip isn't going to cause you to run too lean or too rich so I wouldn't wory about that. Too lean/rich pilots or mains is what will cause issues.

I dont think a bigbore kit alone will give you much more power. If you install the bigbore sleeves and then have the cylinders ported correctly to take advantage of the larger bore then you can get some decent gains, otherwise your better off just getting a good port job on the stock cylenders. Talk to an engine builder that has experience with porting big bore cylinders.

Led's posts look naked now Kinda liked the Led Zeppelin banshee marriage. I think it is the only signature that I will for sure recognize as missing when I see his posts, but I agree, big whoopty do, this site is about content, not showmanship.

How about camping? Any good sites nearby or can you camp right at sand mountain?

Hey fellow Sandlovers. I want to go to Sand Mountain NV but I have never been there before. Ironic since it may be the best and is the closest doons to where i live. I know it is close to the town of Fallon but exactly what are the directions to get there. I'll be comming east on I-80 past Reno then what (take I-50 at Fernley towards Fallon? and what road to take before/after fallon?) Also what kind of camping is there? Anybody got a link or campsite reservation info? Any doon riding advice/tips for Sandmountain? Whats this Kearny Buckwheat butterfly, do I need to bring some bugspray to keep these pests down or what, just kidding! Sounds like Lahontans ferry shrimp, spotted owl, ect. I'm doing searches to find riding info, but all I can find is a bunch of enviro BS about shutting the doons down. Thanks