Ducman

When I first went searching the web for miscelaneous banshee technical info I came across this site quite a few times. The more I came back the more I learned and realized that If I was looking for or wanting info on any type of product, this was the place to go and do the reasearch first. I did not find any other sites that had as much good solid useful info and as many knowlegeble members giving sound advice. I looked at many other sites including Blewchunks, but the only value they offer is mostly just intertainment. Most of the younger HQ crowd aren't a bunch of Blaster boneheads either. Screw blewchunks, I didn't need them before and I sure as hell won't be going there now! I think bluetrax is really a front for NAMBLA (SP?) that so the homo Senior Admins can chat with the young blaster boys. Also, screamin96 thinks that sponcers don't care about what is going on becase they are just interestood in selling more products. Well figure it out, just because they have sold a lot in the past doesn't mean that a present and future boycott from that site by a lot of banshee riders wont affect the sponcers doing business there. Comming to this sight is the only reason I now have a noss head on the banshee and many other products. The more seasoned HQ vetrans have a lot to do with the products that get recognision in the threads here. Saying things like screamin96 said is like saying my sponcers dont care if I piss off a bunch of their high end item buying customers! Yeah, keep shittin in your back yard, its gonna stink sooner or later.

Look in the Jetting FAQ, it can describe it better than I can and it has pictures to show you exactly what you are looking for. You have one on the left side of each carb if you still have the stock duel setup; towards the back of the carb.

That's pretty cheap, one bent axel, tweaked handel bars and levers to go with and It has paid for itself.

I know there was a couple of posts asking about insurance for their quads a while back, and I not sure that this insurance covers quads but it probably will. I just got my policy renewal for my Ducati 996 through GMAC Insurance and the rates actually went down by $50 for this year to $450 per year for full coverage with a $500 deductable on comp and collision along with some extra's in coverage. If you aren't familiar with the full coverage insurance premium rates on crotch rockets $450 is friggin good! Now motorcycle rates vary over a wide range, so for a cruser or a duelsport the premiums aren't too bad, but let me tell you, on a super high performance crotch rocket, especially the new 1000cc rockets the premiums are sky high. I have heard many quotes as high as $3000 per year, yeah, more than the payments! I myself have been quoted $2000 per year by McGraw recently and I had Progressive for a year at $500 with the bear minimum full coverage I could carry while making payments and not owning the title and by the next year they re-evaluated the premium for the 996 and wanted $1600 for the bear bones full coverave insurance even though I maintained a solid good drivers record. The same thing happened before when I got insurance through a company that got the insurance through McGraw and the underwritter. They kept jacking the rates even though my record was staying clean. I haven't got any tickets on my record for 5 1/2 years now (on my insurance record that is, had to take traffic school once to keep a point off my record recently), I also have had a motorcycle liscense and motorcycle insurance for 10 years now, and the rates have still been stedily going up over the last several years causing me to have to shop around for the best rate every other year, so I'm happy to finnaly see a rate go down and not have to shop around again this year. I was about to sell the duck rather than pay $1600 per year on insurance because we were buying a house that year and my wife shopped around for me. She didn't have any luck untill she called the Ducati dealership and they gave her the tip. Many thanks to my honey. So I'm pretty happy with GMAC Insurance, maybe if you have a bike or possibly a quad you should give them a try. The customer service # is 1-800-325-1190

You need to ride it for about 10 - 15 min and go real easy on it, but get good and warm, all the way to a regular operating temp, then let it cool all the way down, do this again 1 or 2 more more times. Put the rings through a couple of heat cycles to get them to set. Then run about 1 full tank through it before you really hammer it and abuse it at WOT. I put in about 1 galon of gas at about 24:1 for the first 2 rides then add a couple galons of 40:1 so you end up with about 32:1 to 36:1 for the first tank, then keep using 40:1 (depends on what oil you use of coarse) With the stock head, check the head bolt torque after the 1rst ride or after it idels and warms up once.

Yeah, whats up? Our Moron of the Month award is gone!

You've got too much invested in that motor to not mess with the jetting to get it dialed in right and too many modds for a good accuarate estimate. If you have an engine builder that has ran that exact combo of mods before, then maybe they can give you a spot on jetting setup. Unless someone on here has the exact same port job and matching carbs, intake, filter, pipes, ect at the same temp and elevation and their jetting is right and answers this post you have to do some trial and error, so if you want to race this weekend, better get started.

If you cant lower the idle with the idle screws then its probably because the stock pilots typically wont work on FMF's you need to go to at least the 27.5 or most people get the best results with #30's on FMF's which is what is recommended by FMF for all their pipes anyway. The idle is probably too high because it's really lean. With the 27.5's you should be about 1 turn out and with 30's you should be 2 - 2.5 out.

I dont oil my filter because it becomes clogged in the Florida dust so I always wondered what it was. Its the 927 seems to seperate somehow and just sits there' date=' it does the same exact thing inside your jugs and this is why sometimes your bike runs good and sometimes it doesnt with 927. [/quote'] I used the 2-R and switched to the 927. No problems with either one, both ran consistantly. If you look in your inake after the carbs there should be a fairly thick film of oil on everything like the reeds and a decent film of oil on the cylinder walls. Thats how 2 strokes work, using the oil in the gas to lube the piston rings and the crank bearings. I haven't had a drop of oil ever come out of my silencers unless I was goofing around with my jetting and starting the engine a lot without riding it and clearing it out. I don't put around very much either so that helps keep the pipes cleaned out. 927 runs as good and consistant as any other oil unless it gets below 0 degrees or you use a race fuel with a low S.G. which are rare. Any oil will work fine as long as its a good quality racing oil made for a high performance 2 stroke engine. I would stay away from cheap chainsaw and injection oils. Also, dont mix 2 different oils in you tank at once because some oils can repel each other or be attracted to each other and it may do funny things to the mix of the gas that is in your tank like gas/oil separation. If you spend tons of dough on mods, wheels/tire ect., why skimp on cheap gas and oil?

If your running K&N clamp on pod filters 290 is way too lean on the mains. I think It should be more like pilots - 27.5 or 30's adjust air screws and/or pilots untill it runs good between 1 and 2.5 turns out on the sir screws, needle 4th clip from the blunt end, and 340 mains if your at sea level and 60 - 80 degrees.

Yes, they can buy 93 at the pump. Remember in CA we used to get 92 a couple years ago, and I believe you could get 93 some time before that.

So they Tomey T-5 and FMF Fatty/Gnarley silencers are interchangeable? If thats so then I gotsta get me a set of T-5's for the doons! Please, can someone confirm this? I dont know what the difference in sound would be but you might try and listen to a FMF turbine core II, see if thats the sound you're looking for, might sound a bit different cause they have a pretty large chamber inside the silencer in front of the cone and swirly blades for the spark arrestor, instead of a straight through perforated tube. The spark arrestor doesn't muffel the sound any or hurt performance either.

+4 stroker crank and 12 angle passion port job is where my $1k is going if Iget lucky and happen to trip over a stack of bills any time soon.

You don't need to recut the squish for .030, you wont get detonation. It may be better with the squish recut, but its more expensive ($125 vs $50), and if you get the domes rechambered you might as well take a little more then .030 off and get the full effect of higher compresion on race fuel or 1/2 race 1/2 pump. If you want to run pump gas then just get .030 milled.

I can get 100 octane unleaded for $3.00 per gal (thats what I run) 110 for $5.xx and 114 for $7xx

I bought a 99 blaster with K&N, FMF fatty, and a +4 swingarm in decent shape for $1700 for my wife and I live in an area where decent used banshees cost $4K min. But I'd say try for $2500.

Be careful with your post tittles, when I saw the words tranny and clips in the same line for the title I though you might be one sick F*%$#er Sorry cant help you with the bearing question.

Hops, I don't know much when it comes to larger diameter carbs than stock, but I'm wth you, sounds really lean to me. 320's with the stock jug and clamp-on k&N carb setup you had before sounds almost a slight bit lean, now with the bigger carbs, stroked, ported, seems like it should be in the higher 300's more like 380 or so? I don't think I would trust the 320's unless you are at a really high elevation, I'd go bigger at first to start with to be safe and if it bogs from being too rich you can always jet back down.

Here's a couple quick grabs from my bookmarks, probably many others that are better, good deals on e-bay sometimes too. Vito's Banshee Superstore Shortys Racing

I like the ITP T-9's I got (.190). Real nice polish job. They seam like they would be pretty tough compared to the .125 douglass (on wifes blaster). The .125 are very light weight though which has its +'s and -'s. On a tire and wheel package it only adds $20 for a set of rears or fronts to upgrade from .125 douglass to .190 douglass or ITP T-9

PTR Mids

If your cylinders are poted they should be perfect.

How much you want ta make?

I've got the twin air with the foam outerwear and I like it. They are pretty tough. You can really twist them hard to wring out the excess oil or cleaning solution when doing maintenance and not hurt them. They have a duel stage foam layer for filtering out even very fine dust. They are a brand that has been around forever. I run with the lid off even through mud and watter with no problems but it does get dirty a lot faster and requires cleaning way more often than with the lid on. With your setup, similar to mine, you need to go up 2 sizes on the main jets when you take the lid off. K&N outerwears make only a small difference in flow but help keep the filter clean for a lot longer. I think Banchetta said they dynoed with and without and it made 1/4 hp difference; about the same deviation you can get from one dyno run to the next.

My Gnarlies turn a slight reddish color for the first 4 to 6 inches, before the first bend, and I have held it at WOT for a hell of a long time on some hill climbs. I know that turning a deep blue is from being hotter than red but I cant tell you the exact exhaust temps that it indicates. I believe that the brighter copper brownish color I even hotter and comes after the blue. You might possibly want to go up a bit on the mains to bring the EGT's down a bit.