Ducman

The spray on stuff isn't as stickey and it is much easier to clean the filter, but I don't think that it offers quite as much protection and doen't repel the water as good, but probably works fine. I use the sticky foam filter oil on the banshee. I use the K&N filter charger stuff on my car's custom foam filter air intake because it easier to clean and my car doen't go off road either.

Colder plugs can help reduce detonation problems but they dont self clean as well unless your WOT all the time. Under normal conditions they get more carboned coated than a regular plug and don't ignite the fuel quite as well. Unless detonation was an issue I would run the regular B8ES.

dirtbike killer From what I can see in the picture, the stinger on the pipe meets the silencer in the same location as on the FMF. So that makes it appear as if it will work fitment wise. Your saying that the FMF silencer (made for low/mid range) is longer so it must stick out at the rear of the bike further then correct? It doesn't look to really stick out any farther, how much difference in length is it? I'm getting tempted to try it.

Oil in the filter repels water too. If you have a bone dry filter it will pull the water right on in.

Well, about all I can tell you is that the trubine core isn't any quieter than the power core, so if low DB's is an absolute must, then I guess get the Q's.

The browse only lets you post a 50K pic. The smallest setting on my digital camera makes a 100k picture.

The articat uses the suzuki z-400 motor. I'd say the only close match would be between a stock raptor and the banshee. The Raptor will get better traction on a dirt road or any flat dirt surface, but as soon as the basnhee it in about 4th gear and gets traction so the wheels quit spinning it will go smokin past the raptor so it has to be a fairly long race, over 300'. In the sand the banshee wins.

Well, I finally said scew it a bought another pair of sidi street boots off e-bay. They dont have quite as much ankel support as far as stiffness, but they actually have more armor and the vertebras are designed for flexibility and moevement but only up to a certain point and then they stop, kind of like an artificail joint or an ankel brace. If you haven't ever felt a sidi street boot, well, I just can't even compare them to the clunky, ski boot like, dirt boots. As far as breaking in boots goes, every pair of boots that I have ever had, work boots, ski boots, motorcycle boots dirt/street or even regular shoes, if they didn't feel pretty damb good and function well when I tried them on and used them when they were new, they felt like shit and worked like crap when they were old too. The worst advice I ever got was when buying a pair of redwing steel toe boots and was told they would feel better when they were broke in. Ended up selling them for 1/4 of what I paid for them.

Yeah, I'm skeptical that any one pipe companys silencers would happen to have the same exact meating point, flange size, and angle as anothers. I just heard someone say on a thread that the T-5 and older toomy's would fit the FMF Fatty/Gnarley silencers. I think if they fit they should work fine together but the cahances of fittng interchangeably without modification are probably slim. The Gnarleys are awsome for the riding I do near home, but I would like more top end for dune riding so I was hoping the the T-5s would work with the trubine core II's. Dirtbike Killer, Which model of Toomeys do you have?

Sounds a little big for good low end and trail riding, but with your supporting mods I'd be tempted to try er out. Might kick some ass in midd to high end.

Yeah, very true. You know one thing we don't often consider when giving jeting recomendations is that the humidity is CA is most often almost zero (dry) even in the winter unless it is actually raining outside then its 100%, usually either one or the other and not much in between unless your right on the coast like at Pismo or you go to the Oregon coast dunes. The east coast and other places is often 90 to 100% even on a hot summer day. According to Bens jetting FAQ you could go up 2 sizes on the mains going from high humidity to low humidity and need an air screw adjustment.

3 weeks? Geeze what kind of torture do you do to those darn things? Maybe your rotors need to be replaced and are causing the pads to wear out extra fast?

Some chains with press fit masterlinks dont even come with the clip to make sure the outer link plate doesn't come off, you have to peen over the pins like the last 525 EK o-ring chain I bought for the duck. The outer link plate off an old chain drilled out and put over the top of the press fit master plate link trick works really well. If you have the right size "C" clamp you can just put that sucker in the middle and clamp it right down, chain press is a little easier though, but a c-clamp will only run you $5. The press fit master links and the most secure and long lasting chain links though. You truly do not have a "weakest link" when you do it right. They are like having one continuous factor built chain.

Try contacting Vito's, they sell banshee big bore stuff, and probably have pistons or rings that will work for you. If the service guy cant answer your questions the tech line probably can. I talked to Trinity over the phone before and their customer service sucked! Vito's was pretty helpful at answering questions when I got my wife's blaster's big bore kit. You may need to measure the piston with a micrometer or even better, the cylender a dial gague to get the bore size and that would tell you what bore you were on with the big bore sleeves. Vito's

You still alive today or are you still doing this ------> Hope you had fun!

Checked the reeds lately? Toss in a new pare maybe.

Let me just clarify the air filter thing for you. You need to get one with an adapter plate kit. The adapter plate (usually aluminum) goes in the slot that the stock plastic filter fits into. You drill two small holes in the airbox and bolt the flange to the airbox. The flange usually has a rubber oring so it makes a real good seal against the side of the airbox, around the intake hole to the carbs. Then the filter clamps onto the flange so there is now way you can get dirty air leaking past the filter, and the filter cant come loose. The stock filter relies on the air box lid being on correctly to hold the stock filter cage in the correct slot on the lid and the botttom of the air box, and is sealed by a ring of foam in front of the flange which is not too dependable. The aftermarket flange and filter set up also allows you to remove the airbox lid which is a big performance boost. Taking the airbox lid off, or the snorkel off of the lid requires rejetting, wich takes us to lesson #2 jetting. You'll want to know about jetting because mods are so friggin kick ass on a banshee and help it make a lot more power, but all mods affecting airflow in and out of a 2 stroke require rejetting which is actually kind of fun in a masakistic (SP?) sort of way after you do it a few times. Here, read THIS jetting FAQ Congrats on the new banshee, you'll be needing a 12 step program in no time!

Yeah, your probably used to the master links that the plate just pops right on the pins. The press fit ones can be a little tough to get on, the right set of vice grips, the ones with a flat bite, not angled, or a "C" clamp works really easy to clamp the plate on. Sometimes you can get a regular masterlink that will work the same, but never try to use a masterlink off another chain to put it together. I ruined a new $120 chain on my first streetbike doing that cause I couldn't get get the press fit master link on came off at 80mph too!

Saying it has K&N's doesn't help much. It makes a huge difference on how your air box it set up. So, do you have a K&N inside the stock air box, and is the airbox lid on or off. Or is the stock airbox completely removed and you have 2 individual K&N "pod" style filters (one on each carb) clamped directly to the back of each carb? If you have the individual pod filters then 290 is way to lean. I run 290's with a foam filter and the stock air box lid off, 0- 450 elev. At 4400' you should drop about 2 main sizes from sea level reccomendations, so roughly: With pods at 4400' I'd think you should still be at 320 mains at the smallest. With K&N lid off at least 300 Lid on 280

Did you try adjusting the air screws for the strongest idle and best off idle response? Is it ideling ok? Try turning them out to 2 or 2.5 turns out and see if that helps. Could possibly need to go down to a 27.5 pilot although mine does good with the 30's. It seems like you shouldn't be that far off. Maybe throw in a new set of plugs? I would look towards trouble shooting the carbs, seems like the jetting you have shouldn't be that bad. If you have a airbox that is modded with the intake flange that the filter clamps on so you can run with the lid off, you might try taking the lid off to see if leaning it out some makes it run a little better, that might give you a direction to head as far as jetting changes if that is what is causing your problems. See if that makes it better or worse and go easy on it especially at WOT untill you figure out the jetting.

I heard on a thread last week that the T-5 pipes and the FMF Gnarley/Fatty silencers were interchangeable. I would love to have the T-5's for the dunes and keep the fatties for riding at home. Also I do a lot of riding that requires sprakarrestors and the FMF turbinecore II's that I am running have them built in but dont kill sound or performance. It would save $ to be able to just buy the T-5 pipes. Any other high rev pipes interchangeable with the FMF silencers becides the T-5's that you know of, info would be appreciated as well.

Uh... Dude, Ya, ok... this is like the section where we talk about funny wrecks and stuff, the mod and repair forum is in the forum below the general Forums. Um Kay? The nuts that tighten the axel are on the left side of those quads like the banshee right? Ive never seen an axel shear like that, must have been a defect in the axel. Must have been some funny shit to watch through.

I dont think they are territorial, I'm in CA. I'm not sure about all of their coverage policies as far as what states and which vehicles, just the best rate on sportbikes that I know of and no rate hikes. Also they allow you to pay only half of the year up front and the rest a few monthes later.

What size (mm) is the shift shaft anyway? I need to get a washer with the correct inside diameter to try Leds little shift shaft play eliminator trick.

Oh hell yeah, good times ahead bro! Funny, I always pictures you as being about 30. Hope you dont do too much of this tonight ----> (and I dont mean siliva comming out) Enjoy being able to snap back after a hard night of drinking cause after about 24 it aint so easy.