Ducman

$400 shipped any takers? I might just put them on e-bay this weekend if knowbody here is interested.

I would say that pretty much summs up the root of all her sudden evilness. I really hate to say it but I think Blue Duce could be right. I swear no matter how genuine they seem, every womans fantasy is of marrying a friggin banker. Women are way more plotting and caniving than men. Yeah, we men may do some stupid shit that hurts the relationship but it is usually spontaneous stupidity. Women friggin plan out the crap they pull and make it look like its your fault. You are who you are man. If you become someone else for a women then your soul will suffer. Ledofthezep - if your woman is cool enough to jump your bones at the top of a sand doon then I say marry that woman. It seems like a big leap of faith but if they are fun to be with and you share common interests married life is actually quite enjoyable and more relaxed than the relationship before. I just want to point out that I was one of the first guys to bag on brokestonedbiker for being such an incoherent door knob. Don't make me dig up that post to prove it. I think the chlorine was a little weak in the gene pool and the life guard was half baked.

I never feel quite right with a little razor seat slicing me in half and no tank or anything in front of you to grip with the thys to keep me from going over the handle bars when the front plows. The back end seems to break loose a bit unpredictable at times too (wants to swap ends on ya) I think because it is a bit more streached out than a stock banshee. It does whicked donuts though. Compared to the banshee it turns way better without sliding the rear end, much more traction in back.

Hmmmm The front tire looks too tall and skinny to be a newer hot rod, plus it doesn't have inverted forks like most new bikes do. The exhaust and rubber on the footpegs make me think it is possibly late 80's. R1 plastic though. Tough one! I'm gonna guess..... er... ummm... aaaaugh... 1987 FZ 700... final answer!

Another tid bit on reed spacers, sometimes certain motor setups, proting, longer stroke, ect. perform better with a longer intake tract both before and after the carb to help get the sonic waves (pressure pulses) from the intake side get in sink with the exhaust side so they will work together better and smooth out the power curve in the midrange where the bulk of the power comes on. Reed spacers lengthen the intake tract and can sometimes help in this way. It seems to be a try them and see if they help sort of thing. I think on a fairly stock motor they don't usually make much difference or can actually hurt performace. As for reeds it seems that most people have had best results with V-force as they seem to boost the power produced over the whole RPM range and not simply change the power curve or improve throttle response with no net power increase like a lot of reeds.

Who = Your Mama What = Banged a goat When = Same # of years as your age How = doggy/goat style why = Tequila?

middle clip works for me with boysen power reeds.

Try running it with the air box lid off with your current settings and see if the bog goes away. My wifes blaster ran good with a K&N, air box lid off, & FMF pipe. In my short experience with blasters they seem bog like a SOB when they are only 1 or 2 sizes too rich on the mains and seem to be more sensitive to elevation and temperature changes than the banshee. The typical range on the main jet for a Blaster with an FMF pipe, air box lid off is from 260 to 280 depending on supporting mods according to the research I did. Stock needle position is 2nd or 3rd clip from blunt end depending on the year (even through the motor and carb stayed the same, 2nd clip for up to 01' I think)

I got the cascades for my Rockets from my local stealer (like $65, I was loured in by the bling like a trout to a super dupper) and they look sweet but they did change the spacing on the silenger tube to pipe fitment; it made the total length of the stingers too long. The silencer tube will only go so far into the seals and the end that goes over the expansion chamber stinger will only slide on untill it comes up against the welds of the expansion chamber. I had to trim approx. 3/8" off the silencer stinger tube and now it fits perfect, seals great and is tres tres bling bling! It gives the pipes a really stout and clean look.

In power band = rear wheels are spinning faster than the front wheels, or in the sand above 3rd gear front and rear are spinning the same except rears are now throwing roost Overheating = puking fluid as soon as you kill it or giving you a wiff of fluid now and then while it is running, solution is to go faster so more air goes through the radiator and keep RPM's higher and your water pump will pump more fluid.

I'll second that!

In my experience running 927 at 40:1, it has been extremely clean burning and has left way less carbon residue than when I used to run Yama 2R at 32:1. Silencers are always dry with very little soot build-up unlike the 2R which would get a bit oily at times If I was just cruising around and not running it very hard.

You have stock pipes now right? Any duel pipe setup will give you more top end than stock and generally more power throughout the entire RPM range. The low to mid range pipes like will add more power on the bottom end and mid and fair amount on top. 2 into 1 pipes will add a lot on the botom with a similar top end to the stock pipes. Some high rev pipes may cause a bit of loss on the low end over stock (not much) but will add a lot on the top end.

I have a set of FMF Gnarlies and Turbine Core II silencers for sale for $400. Price new from Rockey mountain is $243 for the silencers and $280 for the pipes, ($523 total) They were used for 6 monthes (November to May). The head pipes had light blueing from the flange at the head to about 6 inches out that I have buffed back to a mirror finish. I have also buffed the stinger so there are no carbon deposits. There are no dents, and they look as good as new. I can also put a mirror polish on the aluminum silencers (no charge) if desired but the "FMF turbine core II" sticker will have to be removed. Shipping to the west coast will be $15, $20 mid west, $25 East coast. I can accept paypal (credit card payment OK) or money order. PM or E-mail ([email protected]) me for a picture. I will gladly help the buyer with jetting questions and recommendations for these pipes. Thanks, Zack

First Read and try doing BenBB's plug chop method. Warm up the bike to full operating temp, throw in a NEW set of plugs. Go WOT through the top of 6th holding it at WOT in 6th for about 5+ seconds. Kill the motor and pull in the cluth, pull the plugs, cut a section of the threaded part of the plug off to make a window so you can examine the base of the electrode insulator. If the brown ring at the base of the insulator is larger than 2mm and very dark in color then it is too rich. Most of the insulator should still look white and nearly new, your just looking for the 2mm ring at the base. Or an alternative metod is to use your old plugs, the darker the insulator the better, and do a WOT test like mentioned before, only do several passes running it up through the gears, then kill the motor, then check the general color of the electrode insulator. Light brown good, medium brown a little rich but also ok, dark brown to black too rich, very light brown or approaching white near the insulator tip is to lean.

Brooke, you a bad girl! Bad ass that is.

CRF 450R, or YZF 450, screw it, you olnly live once, and even if you get a 250 4 stroke it will be way to wimpy for any +6fter after 1 week of experience on it.

"Drugs are bad UM Kay?" If they only knew the fix I get from the banshee they'd make that Illegal too. "Just hook it to my vain!"

H'mmm that shee looks familiar! Just thought I'd add that the pipes fit very well once the stock front mounts are hacked off, and fenders are trimmed. I put some wrap around the right stinger tube because it was laying right against the frame, no biggie. The only hard part about mounting was due to the billit pipe to stinger seals that I bought. It fit the diameter of the pipes perfectly but made the spacing of the system too long so I had to trim approximately 1/2 inch off the stinger tube. The stinger tubes on the rockets have a much much larger diameter than the FMF's. As for touching the pipes with my legs, I do hit them when I land rough and slide forward on the seat but not when riding under normal conditions. My impression from going from Gnarlies to Rockets (non ported) was that acceleration on top was way better because it was making quite a bit more HP and revving a fair amount higher so when you go into the next gear (like 5th to 6th) your comming into the next gear higher in the RPM range where you will be already well into the powerband and making more power as well, therefore not as likely to bog as before. It felt like the FMF's left a lot of power sitting on the table. I'm pretty sure with porting the power gap between the pipes will only widen.

I told my stealership that I could get a set of V-force for $200 on the internet and they said the best price match they could do was $217. Then I'd have to pay 7.25% tax on top of that. $200 would be an excellent price (new, shipped, W/ no tax).

I just got my rockets installed and took her on a long test drive today. I'll have a product review soon. I'm way too busy with work (went to night shift ) so for now I'll just say that the little bit of low end that I lost with the FMF Gnarlies that I have been running is a small sacrifice for the shitloads of top end and extra rev I seem to have in each gear. Unless you like to cruiz along like an old fart on some twisty trails, the Rockets seem to kick ass in every riding condition that I do. Most noteable difference is the way it pulls hard and accelerates like a mofo to the top of 5th and 6th waaaaay better than the Gnarlies. The power comes on pretty smooth, not real light switchy. Not to mention they look and sound sick as f*ck!

Hallaluyah! SP? Man I was going to be depressed if I couldn't talk about my new rockets, well at least when I get them on and up and runnin.

I dunno, but maybe you could call UPS and act like you were the person who was supposed to get the package to see if it was delivered. If you go to UPS's web site and enter the citys name where you sent the package it will tell you where the closest distribution center is (where the package is loaded on to the delivery trucks) and give you the phone number. Maybe call the distribution center where the package should have ended up and see it they have it there or if they can figure out if it was delivered. If the package was undeliverable, address was wrong, ect., it should aventually get sent back to the location where it came from I think.

$140? Rockey Mountain sells the pro-flow K&N kit for $95+ $10 for outerwears and about $5 for shipping. Tell them If they cant provide you with a shipping tracking # for the stuf you ordered you want the $ credited back to your card and get the kit from Rockey Mountain. And if they haven't sent it yet then cancel the order and get the R.Mtn pro-flow kit.

I sell re-cored polished ducati 748, 916, 996 pipes on e-bay and I always leave feedback ass soon as the payment is made. I include in the text on my auction that I will leave feedback as soon as payment is recieved. I also say that If they aren't happy with the item I will give a full refund (not including shipping) if they send the item back. I think that this helps my items sell a lot better, especially since a lot of people are pretty hesitant to buy a $400 item. I think its kinda chicken shit not to do it that way because when the buyers end of the deal is taken care of it's not fair to hold back feedback just for possible retaliation. When I buy stuff I hate when the buyer does that. However, my product that I sell kicks ass, isn't complecated for buyers to figure out what they are getting and it a super value. If I was selling an item that attracted dumbshits, or people that want to extort you claiming they are not satified, I probably wouldn't do it that way. So far every feedback that I have gotten has been positive and an excellent comment. I figure that If they are happy enough to leave feedback then those are the ones I want because potential buyers can PM those people and ask them questions and If they ask a person that was very satified with the product that helps me sell the next one. Therefore, I don't ask for a feedback if they didn't leave one. But I agree, it pisses me off when people are too lazy to leave feedback especially when I pay immedialtly with paypal or leave good feedback before they even get the item. Also every time I have had to leave bad feedback, about 4 times, I have not gotten a bad feedback in retaliation, because if you are the one that got screwed in the deal and it is obvious to everyone else that looks at the feedback it really hurts the person who leaves a retaliation neg feedback much much worse than if they would have just taken it and moved on, or just have appologised in a return comment on the feedback they recieved.