Ducman

Fixitrod has it. Take a dremmel w/ cut off wheel, steel an old junky flat head screwdriver out of your dads tool/junk drawer, and put a slit in it to make a hook.

When you welded through/filled in the nut, then you torqued on it and it snapped off again were you just using a wrench? What if you did this but used the oldschool impact wrench; looks like a punch with a socket on the end and has a ratchet mechanism inside. You put it on the nut and hit it with a hammer. This way it is pushing inward on the bolt and trying to turn it at the same time. The shock of the impact along with the torque at the same time can sometimes work magic to get a bolt unstuck and not snap off the head. Just a thought.

Now if it was a standard rod +4mm crank you could just use big bore pistons but with the +5mm longrod +4mm crank, then what pistons would work with the 5mm ofset wristpin? I know standard cylinder sleeve blaster pistons only go up to 67.5mm and the first bore on a big bore sleeve is 68mm. 240 big bore blaster pistons start at 72mm. So what pistons do you use? Isn't there also rods that are longer than +5mm? Then what pistons would you use? I probably wont mess with my cylinders for a long time and if I do I might just buy a used set of cylinders and try a different port job on the standard sleeve. But just wondered for shits and giggles if I had a set of big bore sleeves installed and updated the porting what pistons would I use? I like to stick with parts that are redily available off the shelf.

15 years on blasters! What a waist of years! J/K

Damb good idea Fixitrod. Maybe I wont have to buy an impact wrench afterall.

Break cleaner, or maybe a bottle of the liquid chemtool, but don't let it sit on a painted surface or rubber seals.

Vitos sells aftermarket 240 aftermarket cylinder w/ head kits or 240 sleeve kits so you can resleeve the stock cylinder. The new sleeve has bigger ports so when it is installed and the stock cylinders are port matched to the sleeve it is like getting a port job. You also have to have the head turned so it has big bore domes to accept the larger piston size. I would recommend having Vito's do the resleeve work because you really need a nice port job to get the performance potential. I had a local shop do it and I wasn't very impressed, but it was better than stock. Also I have heard that if you go with a +2mm stroke crank (bigger would be better but +2mm requires no case trenching) it really kicks ass. I would also recommend getting the flywheel lightened and do some timing advance which will help the engine rev faster, stock blasters rev way too slow IMO. If you can afford to run race fuel, have the head milled to increase compression, all these put together and you'll probably need a bigger carb but it should easily double HP output.

Yamabuttlube is probably the stinkiest that I would feel safe running, throw a little 30 wt in to stink it up a little more.

I'd cancel that work order and get someone like NYUK to do it if you absolutely cant do it yourself. Unless you trashed your crank and cylinders beyond repair $1200 is insane. You could probably get someone from here to do it for $500 total, they'd do it better than the stealer, and they'd be happy to make some pocket change.

Most of the tapered header full systems will get you about the same max HP and Hp curve. I can say from experience that the full Yosh system or even the slip-on is LOUD as hell without the restrictor endcap. I like the LRD full system, it souds nice but is much more quiet. With a full system you want a #48 pilot, NCVQ needle 3rd or 4th clip (needle out of the YZ450F dirt bike) and a 172 main, take the airbox lid off. If you go with a slip on then use a 165 or 168 main, it will have stupid crasy low end and mid, but only a little more top than stock rejeted w/ spark arrestor removed. I have a Yosh slip on and its friggin loud. Check out YFZ central for detailed photo instructions on the exhaust cam mod, thats free if you do it yourself and good for 1-1.5 hp across the whole curve and max HP, but the HP curve is about 4 more when you get close to 10K; revs higher. (I haven't tried this yet for myself) I might have it done by the dealer the next time I have the valves adjusted. Then a rev box with a limiter closer to 11K. If you pull the stock spark arrestor then turn in the A/F screw in about 1 to 2 turns and raise the needle 1 clip, 162 main, take the air box lid off you'll be amased at the difference and the low end stumble most stock bikes have should go away. Dont try to take the stock carb off to rejet, just loosten and rotate. The pilot and main can both be changed by taking the large hex nut off the bottom of the carb. Just use a towell to soak up the fuel that spills out and shut the gas off first. You can change all three jets in under 1/2 hour if you've done it before.

Here links to dyno's with Rockets dyno(Locogato11283 click) and (stclark816 click) Looks like Loco get max power at 8800 and signs off at around 10k, stclark gets max power at about 9k and signs off a little before 10K. Where it signs off is somewhat subjest to interpretation, I looked at it as the point were they dropped off 10 Hp from the point where they made max HP. Rockets dont seem to just hit a wall where they completely quit, they have pretty good over-rev. I have some differnt porting, tripple exhaust port, and dont make near as much HP as the clark boys but if I recall mine made max HP closer to 10k and signed off at almost 11k. mine had a big dip between 10 and 11 where the pipes almost seemed to come back on but not as much as when it was at max. I dont have the sheet siting right in front of me but I remember the dyno owner was supprised it reved so high. I have stock ignition with a +6 advance on the timing plate. I think a dyna or similar ignition would make a huge difference on mine and maybe get rid of the cammel hump at the top of the curve. Also consider my and locos motor are +4mm stroke, I think stclark may be as well. Rockets might make max HP at a slightly higher rpm on a 350 motor.

Move over South Park! Nice dialog!

That'll teach him to change the bong water more often. But seriously, get well soon Brandon.

My wifes learned how to use a manual clutch faster than I expected. If she has electric start and reverse the manual clutch will only be difficult for a short while. For an auto, maybe a polaris, I think the model I'm thinking of is called a 250 trail boss.

I found some 04' LE a-arms. Thanks

Blue threadlock will work, or use some split lock washers.

Smaller domes are not really going to give you a lot more noticeable top end power, but it will give you a lot more low/mid torque which will often keep you from boging in a certain gear, basically let you pull a gear in a lower RPM which is very useful in hillclibs like if your spinning the tires and suddenly catch traction and loose a bunch or rpm's. Keeps you from feathering the clutch as often to get RPMs back up. Also gives more lugging power for cruising around in sand and not having to use as much throttle or as high of RPM's. Changing the oil ratio doesn't add any power if you are mixing at the oil manufacturers recommended ratio. If you are mixing it way to oil rich then you'll foul plugs, way to lean and you'll burn rings or seaze a bearing. If you change from say 20:1 to 40:1 the percent difference in fuel is only 2.5%, thats only about 2/3 of a main size if you were going from say 280 to 290's (which would be a difference of 3.5%).

Check out this site (Race Logic click here) I don't know if they make a stroker specific port template, but if they do your buddy could probably port your cylinders no problem. If I was going to do it myself, I would at least use a good template that has proven results. If they don't make a stroker template then I'd probably send the cylinders off to a builder. Give them a call, see what they have.

Rockets have a pretty big dia stinger tube. I think Toomy is smaller. I know FMF is for sure much much smaller.

As long as they don't close O'l Baldy it sounds ok to me. Some people park there shit right in the middle of the trails that run parallel to the main road and you come zipping along and all the sudden you realize you are in the middle of a camp site. "Oh So sorry, hope you don't mind a little sand in your hamburger." The camp fires and bottles left behind make the whole area where they sand camp look messy. If they had fires in the same spot every time it would keep it a lot cleaner as well as the fees could pay for garbage cans near the sites so people hopefully wont leave the sites like a pig pen when they go. It sucks but this wold is getting so damb full of people we have to put in a little more effort now just to keep the enviro impact the same as it has been in the past.

Stupidassholes! I guess they should make the camping area like a typical improved camp area, provide full hookup sites, and charge similar fees and enforce rules like any private or state run camp area. Still let the hard core party nuts camp out on the sand but way the hell away from the sane campers where they cant get themselves in trouble and throw fuel out of the race can and light themselves on fire all they want. Maybe that would tame down and manage the crowd as well as provide enough funds to keep the area open because that place does get stupid crazy and I'd hate to see it shut down. I don't think they have anywhere near as bad of problems on the Oregon coast dunes.

is the dura blue a foam filter? air box lid on or off? Foam filterand lid on, in the range of 260 to 280 Lid off 280 to 300 with your mods and depending on temp and ele If the filter is like a K&N then add 2 sizes to the above.

I looked online at the pistons in Vito's racing. They show that the standard big bore piston (the first size piston using the bigbore sleeve) is 72mm. I immagine that is the same as what you have. Call vitos, they could tell you for sure and they have good prices on pistons and/or rings. www.vitosperformance.net

I think that it is just basically trying to say that the Nations founding fathers were Christian, and used their Chritian based moarality and philosophy as a template for creating laws and a structure to govern the nation. I'm a non believer, but I wouldn't take "under God" out of the pledge of allegiance. I interpret it as in this nation you must live by rules established by the belief in God, which is fine by me since they resonable are fair to everone, or at least enforced evenly on everone. Not trying to get off topic, just commenting on something I thought was interesting. What about St. Patricks Day? A holiday that is named after a religious figure, but all I know about it is that your supposed to wear green or you'll get pinched, everyone drinks alot of green beer, and in Chico, if your one of the first 50 people into the bar on this day you get a free T-shirt but you have to get in line at 5am.

I agree with the others on the blowby issue, which is why compression would be down in the first place. It would cause it to fail faster by burning a ring. If you could hone the cylincers and re-ring the pistons, assuming the bore was in tollerance, it would be as cheap as milling the stock head and be a permenant fix as long as the piston itself is in good shape. Although, if the pistons had a lot of hours or har use, I would personally buy new pistons to decrease the chance you would get a broken skirt.