Ducman

Bel Ray gearsaver here too, 1.8 quarts. Stock clutch is still holding up on my 4 mil, for now anyways.

Get the NOSS head. I highly recommend the heads that come annodized in a color, looks friggin sweet, you wont be dissapointed.

Loco, I highly doubt that you've done any dammage to the motor, but yes, the valves do need to be adjusted "shimmed" especially after the motor is good and broke in to ensure that you are getting maximum valve lift and no slop in the valve train. It probably gets adjusted the most at this time and wont need cam adjusted again for a long time. It is also a good oportunity to do the move the exhaust cam back one tooth mod (trades about -1 hp midrange for +1 hp on the top end). This is the same cam configuration used on the Yz 450 F dirtbike. One more complaint about the YFZ is you have to remove the gas tank to change the spark plug, so WOT plug checks are not convienient. But it is also easier to jet and there are exact recommended settings for simple bolt on mods so its no all that necessary anyways.

They probably wont issue a fine or seize the bike although they probably could. I know a guy that buys bikes in Oregon and doesn't ever register in CA. He doesn't ride in CA often but has been stoped by the rangers and bitched out for breaking the rules. However!, my Uncle didn't want to register his quads used for ranch utility work because they never go off of his property. He just neglected to pay registration like your friend and the state took the registration out of his state tax return plus penalties!

Yeah, I think they misqoted the banshee v-force price as the same price as the blaster price. If they sell a set for that price then it would be a STEAL of a deal. You could re-sell them on e-bay for $210 shipped. The local stealership that I bought mine from said their cost was $200 for them. I got them for $215 because they price matched, but they griped about making no $ on the deal. Yeah, probably BS. For v-force replacement reed petals try Magic Racing. I dont know if they have the best price but they are a good place to buy from like Rockey Mtn.

The YFZ is an awsome bike out of the box and they rip when you pipe and jet them. So far the things I dislike are the stiff razor seat that leads to monkey but in a few hours and the $180 first service/tune up at about 20 hrs. Also if you have a really hot ported banshee especialy a stroker your going to walk away from a YFZ other than at the launch in a drag.

One bit of advice, don't bother doing a dyno run just trying to get some good #'s unless the shop has dyno tires for you to run (slicks that are very solid) or you will get lower #'s and the dyno drum will eat your knobs for breakfast. My experience using the dyno sniffer for A/F ratio to determine if any jetting changes were necessary was that the sniffer A/F reading was right on the money and accurate for jetting changes both on the dyno and regular riding. My local dyno (not at a dealership) charges $50 for a #'s only session and $75 for a dyno tune and #'s session. If they are doing more bikes than just yours then they don't charge any more for additional runs that day to check A/F after jetting changes.

If you want good lowend pipes to match your port work then I wouldn't go with toomeys. I agree they are a nice sounding pipe and would make good power, they'll just come on a bit higher in the rpms than what you probably want and come on with a strong hit that will give you a lot of wheel spin. I'd recomend FMF's, PTR mids, or LRD for a good midrange and all around pipe.

Same as J.J.'s jetting except run 280 mains since you have the airbox lid on.

The only difference in any other companys jet kit might be custom tapered needles which I don't think I'd use anyway. Like others have said just buy the individual sizes you need. There are a lot of sizes that you sill never use in most jet kits.

I would recommend a porting template for DIY porting. If I remember the name correctly, a lot of people on the HQ have had good results with the race logic stage II or III port templaltes, something like that. If you search you'll find it.

Got Flames? Click on the link above. They sell a kit. They have a couple of clips of flames, even one of an old ford truck.

I ran the NGK BR8eix (platimum electrode tip, $8 ea) for the first time this weekend and I liked them. My bike is jetted perfect right now and doesn't show hardly any wear or carbon buildup so I figured what the heck they should last a long time. I couldn't say for sure if there wasl any huge improvement because I don't have a good spot to go WOt up to the top of 6th but it did start up nice and run very crisp felt very strong on top.

Wow, I did not know that. Weird Wild Stuff. The coldest temp I've ever experienced in CA was about +10 deg F while snow skiing, and shee only gets down to about 50 deg F in my cozy garage. It does get hot as hell here in CA though and the stuff does seem to work as far as cooling.. It's definitly a lot thicker when pouring it out than just distilled water with some blue food coloring in it. Too bad though, if I was broke down way out in the desert sand I could live for an extra week drinking my rad coolant or make some funky colored coolaid with it. yum yum

NOSS - because the customer service is top notch and he rides and knows banshees. I only wish I could have bought a NOSS intake manifold a few monthes back. Pro-design is way over priced compared to NOSS. Also, how many times have you seen Mr Prodesign post in this forum? Nuf said?

It might be easier to just use a spacer plate under the cylinders. Like NOSS was saying, you could cut the clearance into the dome you have, any machine shop with a lathe could do that, but the geometry of the dome wouldn't exactly be right, the spark plug would be real close to the piston but it may work. However, you could use a spacer under your spark plug to fix that issue. I have 18cc 4mm stroker domes (no base plate) cut by NOSS and with my dune porting it only yields 145 psi. I run 110 to be safe (+6 deg adv) but I think I could easily get away with 100.

Rasing your exhaust ports by that method might yeild a small increase in top end HP but will also decrease hp and especially torque on the bottom end. It will result in decreasing you static compression and incorrect squish clearance (too much squish) since your piston wont be going all the way to the top of your cylinder. You'd be better off doing a little bit of reasearch on doing your own porting, busting out the dremmel and raising the exhaust ports the right way.

Sometimes the slides get some 2 stroke oil gummy sludge build up on them that makes them a bit sticky. Clean them with carb cleaner, it also leaves a very lightweight solvant like oil film behind that helps them slide easy.

not much, probably none.

If you want to ride it right out of the box with very few mods then the 450 would be best. The banshee can slide the ass end around a corner on a tight trail like no other quad imo. The z-400 can scoot around the tight trails pretty good but anything requireing a bit of Hp like sand, serious hill climbs, wide open spaces, or riding in the upper gears, and it is a turd. If you have cams, a full system and a ported head they will run, but then it is still no faster than a piped YFZ 450. The only time you will have overheating issues with a banshee is if you are running hard without adequate air flowing throuh the radiator like if you are stuck in the mud winding the piss out of it and not moving. The 450 has a fan on the rad but they run hot as hell most ofl the time anyway. YFZ 450 and cheap generally aren't used in the same sentense. Banshee's will tipically go quite a long time without a rebuild if you have them jetted right and don't forget to put oil in the fuel. Some of the newer 2 stroke mx bikes wear out pistons and rings real fast and scare people away from other more reliable and long lasting 2 stroke motors like the banshee.

I have the TM 34mm Mikuni flat slides. The main jets are the same as the stock carbs (interchangeable), except you run a somewhat smaller size on the bigger carb than you would on the stock carb. I run #300's on my dune port 4 mm stroker with pod filters. The pilot jets are way different (not interchangeable with stock) but the size by # that you would run is similar to stock. I run a #35 pilot. Instead of changing the needle size you can change the needle jet orafice (dump tube). When I first ran the carbs with the needle jet orafice that came stock on the carbs (P-8) it was way too rich. I dropped the needle all the way down and it was still really rich. I went to a size Q-0 orafice which is about 2 or 3 sizes smaller than the p-8, needle on the middle clip and it is just right. This info should get you in the ball park and you can fine tune from there. I think you can order the needle jet and pilots from pro-flow.com or sudco

Your airscrews being 4 turns out would probably give it an off idle bog or poor throttle response. I wouldn't mess with the snorke, airbox lid,l or any jetting besides the air screws and the idel untill you get it good and broke in. 1 full tank run through and start riding it a lot harder. The motor will change a lot and start comming in to operating range when it gets good and hot a few times. My stock motor changed a lot when I broke it in, and there was a huge difference how my stroker motor ran up to about 2 tanks of gas. It started out acting pig rich (which it was too rich on the needle) but got way better after it broke in. Also the case and cylinders can get loaded up with fuel and oil when you let it idle for a long time with out ridng it to clean it out and it will make it real cold blooded, idle like crap, and bog real bad untill you hit the band a couple times and go up through the gears under load. It will start and run a lot better once it is broke in. Changing the plugs after the first tank is a good idea too because they never seem to run as good after the plugs gets somewhat foulded.

Not bad. Some port work will get your bro to 45 For comparison a YZF 450 with a full system and K&N lid off jetted makes about 43hp.

It makes a big difference if you smoked every day, a couple times a month, or just one a while. Pot has a 3 day 1/2 life in your system and each dose is addative. So if you smoke 2 days in a row it is in your system for 5 more days. Smoke 3 days in a row and its in your system for 7 more days up to a maximum of 4 to 6 weeks unless you clean your system. I have passed a piss test by cleaning out and then using a "clean test" kit but I only smoked for about 2 days, 4 days before the test and I know they tested it. You must follow the directions exactly. I had another friend that failed the test the same way but didn't follow the directions as well. I knew a guy that was in a drug treatment program and said that he did it every week for about 2 monthes. I swear this nut ball did it just for sport and rebel defiance. He aventually got caught, but not for pot, for some indicators of acid and they threatened to do a hair test if he didn't confess. The hair test is expensive and rarely done like others have said unless it is for a job that requires a high security clearance like a prison guard, certain government and law enforcement positions. I'd say if you used pot recreationally say 7 times in one month then I'd try the shampoo and piss test kit, but if you have smoked every day for the last 3 monthes your're going to need a couple of monthes and a harcut to clean up.

I don't think rockets stick out any more or are more likely to burn you as CPI. Just don't wear riding pants that might stick to the pipes the first time you ride with them!