Ducman

I need a lower right stock YFZ 450 A-arm, got paypal, PM me a price

About $2.20/gal is the cheapest you can find for reg unleaded here in CA and the price seams to be rising fast. The lowest the price got all winter long was about $1.97

We'll its been a while since I've has a shameful ride so I guess I had one comming. Last friday after work I took my wifes 450 to go trail riding and was having a great time untill I was about 1/4 mile from my truck at the end of the day. I was riding about 100 yds back behind a buddy, comming down a narrow logging type road in steep ass mountainous terrain. The road has countless switchbacks one right after the other all the way from the top of the ridge at about 5500' down to the higway that follows the river canyon below at about 2000'. We were having a blast comming down the mountain sliding into each hair pin 180 deg corner, leting the ass end start to come around and hitting the gas at the right moment to get going in the direction of the next straightaway. Well, this one particular coner seemed to have a lot less traction than all the others. I had already slid way to deep into this corner earlier that day and my buddy did the same both times he hit this corner as well. I was hard on the breaks going into this left hander and I wasn't slowing down nearly as much as expected. There was a bad rut and a steep drop off down hill to the right, and the drainage gutter and steep uphill slope to the left. Apparently from examining the post wreck evidence, I slid to the right far enough to hit a rock that stood about 6" tall that was embeded in the road in the gutter. It actually (without popping or knocking the tire off the bead) made a buldge in the rim and egg shaped the bead on the inside, not to mention bent the back side of the lower A-arm. I didn't know things were bent so bad and I still tried to make the corner but the right tire was locked up because the rim was hitting the controll arm. Right front tire locked up going into a left hairpin turn didn't work too well. I expected to turn and kept going straight and now had to panic lock all 4 wheels. The front tires caught on something and launched me and the quad endo style. I sort of pogoed off my head (scrwed my helmet pretty good) while flying through the air inverted and landed on my back. I sat up right away and was amased that my head was still attached and I didn't have any broken bones and I could breath ok. I really dont remember if I was ejected before the quad and I did the first flip or if we flipped together and then I was ejected before a second or more flips. Either way I ended up about 10' in front of the quad and the quad ended up on all 4 wheels. There was about a 10' gap where there were no marks from the spot where the font tires finally caught to the first sign of impact. We then tumbled about another 30 feet from the spot where we hit. The quad only had a bent rt lower a-arn, rim and, bent handle bar on the right. I'm not sure that the bar was bent on the gound or from my body but there wasn't another scratch on it. I don't exactly recall the mid crash events because it was all happening violently fast and I got my bell rung so hard I couldn't see straight except for the cartoon tweety birds flying around my head for about 2 minutes. I got a few scratches from blackberry thorns but I almost ended up going over the edge of the hill into a big patch of backberrys. I guess I was unlucky for hitting the rock which caused the wreck but even more lucky that the quad and I came out with only minor injuries. I have bumps and bruises and the worlds stiffest neck with some musle spasoms, but its fealing better each day. The chiropractor adjusted my neck and said it was just some bruised neck and shoulder muscles. I wish I was riding the banshee so I could finally have an excuse to get +2+1 a-arms and my wife wouldn't bitch me out for jacking up her quad. Live and learn! Guess I needed a little reminder to slow down.

I had the same problem. Take a piece of scrap radiator hose and split it. Put it between the pipe and the radiator hose to act as a shield. Put a zip tie around the hose so it cant fall off.

You want to synk the closed throttle slide height (idle) and then the throttle cable pull on the slides. To sync the carbs look into the intake sides of the carb (not running and air filter off) and adjust the idle so that both carb slides are at the same height at idle postion (closed throttle). Then start it and adjust both carb idles evenly to get the desired idle. Next (engine off, twist or press throttle) slowly take the slack out of the throttle cable and verify that both slides begin moving at the same time. If one comes up before the other then use the nuts on the carb tops (or knob on top of tors) to take the slack out of the cable on the side that the slide comes up late untill both slides begin to move at the same time. You can also check by holding the trottle open so the bottom of the slide is flush with the inside top of the carb and feeleing with your finger if both slides are even with the top of the carb.

Are you able to hold it at WOT in 6th gear for very long? The only think I can think of is that you may not be running it long enough to get a ring. If you do several passes WOT it wont effect the ring height, it will just make it a little darker if your too rich. Where I do my WOT plug chops I can only stay WOT in 6th for about 1 or 2 seconds so I turn around and run WOT back the other direction again before I remove the plugs. When I was about 1 to 2 main sizes small I still got a around a 1.5mm ring and a bit light, and not as even all the way around the plug. When I was about 1 - 2 sizes too rich it was about 2.5mm ring and a bit dark, but I never did it and didn't have any ring at all.

Don't the non tapered bars typically have a brace between the bars and the tapered bars do not, hence the benefit of the tapered bars?

You need to take the flywheel off, do a search for tips on removing/ installing the flywheel. Its easy if you have an air or electric impact wrench to get the nut off that holds the flywheel on.

I was curious about how AV gas octane rating differed from automotive fuel so I did a little research. The difference is AV gas octane is measured based only on MON (Motor octane) method and auto fuel uses MON and RON to calculate octane. Auto gas is mesured my (RON+MON)/2 (RON = research octane) Here is a quote on how AV gas octane is determined: "The Aviation Rating is determined using the automotive Motor Octane test procedure, and then converted to an Aviation Number using a table in the method. Aviation Numbers below 100 are Octane numbers, while numbers above 100 are Performance numbers. There is usually only 1 - 2 Octane units different to the Motor value up to 100" Here are 2 quotes on how MON compares to RON: "For most hydrocarbon fuels, including those with either lead or oxygenates, the motor octane number (MON) will be lower than the research octane number (RON)" "Modern fuels typically have sensitivities around 10" This is the difference between RON and MON, RON being typically heigher by 10. The conclusion I got from this article was that if you took an AV gas octane rating (MON) and also had the RON rating, then find the automotive rating using (R+M)/2 it would probably be a fair amount higher octane rating for automotive fuel. Therefore I would conclude that AV gas rated at 100 octane would better resist detonation than automotive fuel rated at 100, or AV gas octane number is lower than auto gas for the same fuel. I guess av gas is good shit? (Click Here) This is the article that I pulled my info from. See these sections for the pertinant info: 6.5 What does the Motor Octane rating measure? 6.6 What does the Research Octane rating measure? 6.19 Are aviation gasoline octane numbers comparable? Another good section for those of you mixing 50/50 race/pump fuel 6.15 Can I mix different octane fuel grades?

Check to see if the choke tube between the carbs is attached

I would try #300 main and 4th clip. After that only change the mains or the needle, if you make changes to the main and the needle at the same time it is hard to determine which change made effects to performance other than WOT performance or color on a plug check, these are only affected by the main. As for plug color when doing a WOT plug check, once the porcelin takes on color it wont realy get any lighter in color. Look at the flat metal face (ring) on the bottom of the plug and the strap. Or read BenBB's jetting FAQ (click here) for the "Plug Chop" method which I prefer over reading plug color doing WOT plug checks. Also if you are using Yamalube at 24:1, thats pretty oil rich premix, I would go to 32:1 or 36:1.

Those are tough questions. Not many HQ'ers run RDZ pipes, porting, or alchohol. I don't think anyone could answer you jetting questions better than RDZ.

If you want to get a lot of answers on this question you may want to start a new thread, also peeps might get confused because the thread is a year old. As for your question, no Toomys are more of a top end pipe although some people like them for all around riding, but there are other pipes with good bottom end that make much better pipe for woods and trail riding like PTR mids (Paul Turner Racing) or FMF Gnarlies.

ditto on spoin39's advice

We'll after reading all your jetting attempts I dont think you are running lean. With the mods you have and airbox lid cut (same as lid off) you should be good down to about 50 degrees with a 290 main. When I had FMF's, uni filter, lid off, I only ever used a 280 and 290 main, but temps in CA are fairly mild, not below 50 very much in the day. If you are not having trouble with shee starting or ideling then don't worry about the pilot, it doesn't effect much of the throttle range that you actually use when riding other than slow put put speed down a trail. 27.5 pilot will most likely work better but you should be able to get a # 25 to work if you turn in the air screws to say 1/2 to 1 turn from seated. As for the needle most people running a smaller pilot will get the best results with the 4th clip position on the needle. I liked the 3rd clip best with #30 pilots. A tan or light brown on your spark plug porcelin is jetted perfectly and it will take a fair amount of riding time to get a lot of color on the porcelin when jeted perfectly, say at least 1/2 hr of spirited riding. If it turns anything much more than meduim brown in 1/2 hr of riding then your too rich. The way you are describing that you are running decent but being down on power makes me think that you getting too rich. If you are way too rich it will bog on the needle or mains, but theres is a lot of jet sizes up untill it bogs you will loose a little power with each main size and clip position that you are past your optimum. It can make it seam like you are running good but just cant pull as tall of a gear WOT on the mains. With the needle too rich it is a little more slugish going into the band when rolling on the throttle or it can be "all or nothing" like a light switch going into the band if you are way rich on the needle. Anyway, I cant see you needing anything bigger than a #300 main down to 30 degrees F with your current airbox setup and mods. I think your original problem with a #280 main and the needle on the 5th clip may have been a couple sizes too small on the main (plugs looked lean) and one clip too much needle.

Hmmmm, sounds strange. Are you sure it is only a logrod crank and not a 4mm stroker long rod. I could immagine if the you were using stroker domes on a 4mm setup (no spacer plate under cylinders) and a really low exhaust port height like if it was left with stock ports, you might get really high compression like that. But I don't see how a stock stroke crank would get that high. If it were a big bore on the stock stroke long rod crank then you would have to use blaster pistons, not 795 series pistons right? So I don't think it could be a big bore because 795 series only comes in 64-66mm. (I'm not sure, just asking and thinking out loud)

I would keep the stock airbox unless you have to get rid of it to make room for some bigger carbs or other reasons that make it necessary. It wont make a noticeable performance gain going to pods over a K&N in the stock box with the lid off. If you do go to pods then, Uni pods work geat in the dirt and can even shed off a little water flung off of the tires. Sand will stick to foam pod filters real bad though. I'd get a set of K&N's W/outerwears for the sand and Uni's for everything else.

lighten flywheel, adjustable timing plate set at +4

Just some ideas, If you are having trouble keeping in the band in 5th and 6th but pull 3rd and 4th pretty solid then I would go bigger on the front sproket, say 15 tooth, so you will be pulling 4th the same speed as when you were in 5th with a 13 tooth. When I dynoed my banshee It made the most power in 4th and droped off a fair amount in 5th and a bunch is 6th. 6th was a very narrow power range at the top of the gear. A local bulder has his 4mm shee ported so that the max power is made in 5th gear and he likes to run a 13 tooth in the sand because his 5th and 6th gear are very useable. If your running stock carbs they might be holding you up some. I have heard that they will start to run out of fuel on high HP shee motors unless you have a modded fuel clock or a in-line pump. Maybe the carbs are starting to lean out on long pulls from getting low on fuel? Some things you also might try if you haven't done these already is bumping up compression and a little more timing advance. If you are using custom cut stroker domes, you could possibly have NOSS make you some domes that are better for midrange power if you have top endy cut domes (narrow squish band and shallow dish shaped dome). The better shaped domes NOSS made for me helped my shee's low end/midrange power and cut down on feathering the clutch alot on my shee.

Toomey Banshee, are you talking about your banshee or your wife because as I was reading your post I kept thinking you were describing marriage.

What do you mean +4 stroker jetting - non ported Are you running a stroker setup on stock port cylinders?

20cc domes are at the limits of the compression you can run on pump gas, but I have heard of people in the HQ running 20cc domes with +4 timing on pump fuel at sea level. If you make sure that you are not lean, because detonation is a product of compression and lean air fuel ratio, and stay with stock ignition timing, you should be fine. Possibly even +4 timing since you are 1300 ft. 21cc domes would be completely safe, but I think you can get away with 20cc domes.

As Good as it Gets Good Will Hunting Pay it Forward

Sounds lean on the mains, with K&N pods and timing advance I'd say go to 320's minimum. I would try 14 tooth in front so it will pull 4th.

I have the prodesign as well, its a nice piece, but I think the BOSS may be better price vs quality. Trinity makes some nice and simple intakes for duel carbs you can find on e-bay for cheap. Vitos makes some and there are many other bilit manifolds out there. If you want to run v-force reeds then there are also many manifolds that are specifically made for v-force, they have 4 short individual runners which look like cross hairs from the front view. Almost forgot, there are some rubber manifolds that look like stock but fit bigger carbs for a lot less $ than the bilit manifolds. I think Magic Racing sells them.