Ducman

dajogejr Stock head will work fine if you go with the base plate under the cylinders or you can get it machined to have stroker domes but it will cost a few bucks. You can get your cylinders ported now if your builder knows you you are planning to go 4mm later and you will need to get them reported for the 4mm crank. I would recommend just doing the 4mm setup now if thats what you really want or just stick with a nice ported stock stroke motor and cut out the extra hastle tearing down and dialing in new motors as well as the several hundred dollars wasted in pistons and porting for a temporary settup. Passion, I thought Vito's cranks were just wiseco hot rod cranks being sold under their name. I know that wiseco makes Vito's pistons, and when I bought a blaster crank from them a while back they told me that it was just a hotrod crank made for them to sell under their name so I assumed the banshee cranks were make by wiseco also. I have a wiseco 4mm hot rod crank not bought from Vito's, are they good cranks?

On the V-2's the lower tension setting will wear out the reeds much faster and is only recommended for racing applications due to it making the reeds somewhat unreliable. I don't know if its the same for the V-3's though but it seems like it would be. I think they open up much easier than the stock reeds anyway.

Thanks guys. I feel a little less agitated about the hole situation now. I was thinking of buying a used set of stock jugs and trying out a port job from a local builder this summer, so I may just go ahead and pull the motor and have him check out the crank as well just to be safe. This builder does a port job that comes on very early and revs to the moon kind of like a hot MX port. He's making 72 hp on a stock stroke motor, and stock cylinders with his port work. His banshee is friggin awsome. My wife's due in mid July with our first baby so the banshee will probably not make it back to the dunes again this summer anyway and you can't ride 2 strokes in the local riding areas (CA) in the summer. Either way, blown and/or getting reworked, shee'll be down for a little while. The flywheel isn't actually rubbing to make any friction to rob power. I suspect the flywheel may never cause any problems but there is no way of knowing that, and I'm sure that if there is a vibration that is being held in check now, when the crank and bearings get some slop in them over time it may take advantage of it and cause sudden crank or bearing failure so I am definitely replacing it.

I'm getting the shee ready for a quick weekend warrior trip to the OR dunes this weekend. I took off the left side engine cover today to change my front sprocket. I haven't done this since the motor was built and installed, approx 100 hours on the motor now. First I noticed a small amount of sand under the cover. I think this was getting in through the wireing that comes in at the top of the case, no biggie, I think I got that issue fixed. So now I take a closer look and I see a mark where the flywheel has just barely touched my pro-design timing plate. At first I though may have been from the sand being thrown off the flywheel but as I rotate the flywheel I see that it has some runout issues. I checked the nut and it was tight. It was lightened at the time the motor was built and appears to be a good job, you can see some dimples where it has been ballanced. I measured it with a feeler guage and it is about 1.5mm away from the plate at the fartest point out and pretty much touching it at the narrowest point (180 deg of rotation between the 2 points). I started the motor and when it is ideling you can see the very slight wabble. While running I put my finger on the outer diameter and it seems to be out of round by much less than the runout, very little, you almost cant feel it but you definitely can feel the runout, and the center hub of the flywheel and the crankshaft feel like they are running perfectly true. I think the flywheel was dammaged when the motor was shipped back to me by UPS. I am almost sure of this especially since the water pump side cover was dammaged by UPS when return shipped and had to be replaced. Unfortunately I have just now noticed this after the motor has been ran like a drunk wite trash daddy beating his red headed step child for about 100 hours, mostly dune riding. It seems strange that it wouldn't make any noticeable vibration if it was out of ballance as far as the runout, I dont think the ballance is too much of an issue in making the crank move out of axis, but I don't know what stresses may have been put on the crank and bearings in the direction of the crank center line (in and out). Anybody have any thoughts or experience with this type of flywheel issue? Any useful info would be appreciated. I plan on replacing the flywheel. My questions are, should I tear the motor down and get the bearings and crank inspected and the crank trued if needed. That would suck since the motor is still pretty fresh and running perfect. Is there any amount of acceptable runout? The hub seems fine could the runout issue be fixed by taking a small amount of material (1.5mm) off the front and rear face with a lathe? Is there any reasonably priced aftermarket light weight flywheels out there or should I just get another stock flywheel and have it lightened. I still plan on running the sun of a bitch this weekend, focker went 100 hours and shee still runs like a raped ape, whats 8 more hours! Am I insane for doing this?

You could get some aftermarket ones from chozenperformance.com that dont have the rubber dampener that can break or stock ones aren't all that expensive from the Stealer.

My shee (see mods in signature) uses 1 gallon per hr when riding hard (lots of WOT) in the sand. That is pretty typical for a ported shee with bigger duel carbs from what I have gathered. I recently had a trip to the OR dunes where I used 17 gallons of fuel in 3 days over approx 19 hrs of ridding (some trail riding increased the gph). My YFZ 450 uses almost exactly half of the amout of gas that the banshee does. Its hard to compare milage as far as MPG with other banshees because different terrain will vary your MPG way too much to compare, but for GPH if you are riding hard and doing a lot of WOT then you shouldn't be going over 1 gal per Hr and definitly not with your settup. If your fouling plugs then you have some sort of problem with too much fuel getting into the cylinder, if its not jeting then its probably the floats in the bowl are not shutting fuel off correctly and the bowels are over flowing and the fuel is being sucked into your motor. I rode my current settup with way too rich of needles when I was breaking it in and getting hadn't yet got the jetting correct and it did lower my milage a lot from what it is now but it still wasn't bad enough to foul plugs. I know I have done some pretty gnarly trail riding not too long ago with about a 20+ mile round trip and didn't hit the reserve.

Keep the TR-6's untill you port your motor then go with Rockets. With simple bolt on mods using stock carbs and airbox the TR-6s will be a better all around pipe.

I just ordered mine from the stealer for about the same price at online price+shipping. You can get them in just about any diameter, just measure the Rocket silencer diameter (at the end where it clamps on for the old style). Just a note, they fall off real easy with just the clamps unless you drill and tap a small screw through the sparkies into the silencer. The screw provided with sparkies is a joke. I used a 3mm tap and screw on the underside of the silencer, the same size screw as the ones that hold the radiator shroud plastic to the clip/nuts. When your ridding and you dont need the sparkies just put the screw back in the hole and its not very noticeable. I have the old style silencers. One of these days I plan to get the new style silencers for better looks when dune riding (NV and OR) and just tack weld the sparkies to the old silencers for trail riding locally (in CA spark arrestors are required) so I dont need the hose clamps or screw at all.

YFZ rims will fit a banshee but they are a little bit different offsets, it will give you +2.5" width in back and -0.75" in front.

They have been able to pull you over for not wearing a seatbelt and no other reason in CA for 15 years now, so needless to say I'm used to wearing it, and don't have to think about putting it on; my brain does it automatically when I get into a car. I just think its funny that they are running a big "click it or ticket" campain in CA anyway like we forgot about the seat belt law in CA that has already been going on for 15 years.

I dragged some insanely modded 250R's (probably more like a 370R) on flat hardpacked wet sand. They could get a holeshot on me due to extended swingarm and I had to severely sort shift to get the front end back down in 1rst- 3rd gear (stock swinger) but at 4th gear I'd real them back in and smoke by them in 5th and walk away in 6th. It was a long race, over 1/8 mile. If it would have been 300yrds my ass would have been grass. However If I had dumped the $ in my setup like they had other than just the motor it would have been much less of a contest. The 250r chasis and suspension is beter and it would be a tough call on the 2 bikes you mentioned, but the banshee can be modded to eat the 250R.

On a hard surface like a dirt road, yes. On soft terrain like sand, probably not.

If you do this mod the spark timing is advanced 4 degrees or you can go a little more or less. It will raise the octane requirement slightly, but with stock compression, pump gas will work fine. You can get a rickey stator adjustable timing plate for $35. You have to take flywheel off to install it which is real simple if you have access to an impact wrench and a flywheel puller (you can buy a puller for about $10 from rickey stator as well). There are other ways to do it as well. You can just buy a GYTR CDI for about $160 or so on e-bay and just plug it in for about +3 deg and a hotter spark. Do a search and your will find all kinds of details and instructions.

Yeah, I'd rather have some dune nasty jugs rather than dune friendly. Oilsmoke, not speaking from experience, but I think that the cubs would be awsome in the dunes. I would immagine that it is probably be like running an extreme dune or drag port. I definitly don't think that it would be the best all around dune setup, but it would be kick ass in the open dunes areas, drags and hill climbs. So I guess you'd have to decide if the trade off is worth it to you. In the OR dune trails that I ride you dont need to have the best low end response to get around. Its not like there are a bunch of split second throttle imputs in dune trails like there is on rocky gnarlie mountain trails. The main thing you need a quick responce for is the woops and you can alsways clutch it if the R's aren't where they need to be to get the front end up. I liked my stock pipes shee a lot beter in the dune trails but overall, now I am much happier with a 4mm dune port stroker. I don't know about the cubs, they might be a little much for the dune trails, but I doubt you'd be unhappy or unsatisfied with your ability to get around on the dune trails.

My favorite hill climb is up "Banshee hill" at the doons in Winchester Bay OR. I think people would laugh their ass off if someone tried to call it 400ex hill.

You get more power from a stroker that is ported properly and the big bore only has 2 over bore sizes. The over bores I think are 68.25 and 68.5 (standard BB is 68 mm) so if you get a nasty gouge in the cylinder wall your sleeves might be toast and you would have to resleave again. You also have to go with big bore domes. The cost of resleaving the cylinders is just about the same as a 4mm stroker crank.

I doubt there is any real difference in function but the prodesign plate is a way more high quality very precisely machined looking piece. Is the extra quality all that necessary, probably not, but if they were both the same price, I'd definitly go with the prodesign.

I think 150 psi and +4 will be fine at 1500+ elev on 91 oct. Make sure you aren't lean on your jetting.

You want your A/F at about 13:1 Above 13.5 is in the danger zone, above 14 and cylinder temps get hot enough to melt stuff if you go WOT for long enough. Knobbies also take a few ponies off your #'s and do funny things, shake, grow, smoke, ext. If your can run slicks or a hard street type tire it works beter.

Do a search under my log name and you will find a couple good threads about toluene and xylene. Basically I have found unless you get a really good deal on toluene or xylene, like buying a 55 gal drum from a paint store at a discount, it is typically cheaper to buy race fuel. I have read that it has a higher energy content per unit than gas but I doubt it will be all that noticeable as far as a performance boost. If you are going for lower octane #'s like 95 it is more efficient (need to mix less toluene) and you max out at about 102 octane (50/50 mix with 91 pump fuel). Toluene is 114 octane and I think over $5/gal. One good thing about it is that it is unleaded so you can mix it with pump gas for a turbo or supercharged charged high octane performance tune on a vehicle with cats. On the other hand you can just go out and buy 101 unleaded for $3.65/gal (price I paid for it last week). 110 octane leaded was only $4.70/gal.

Ditto Loco I had them on a stock motor with 20cc domes and they were awsome. They rip on my 4mm stroker too.

I ran my stock air box with the TM 34's for a while. (I run foam-dirt and K&N-sand pods now) I have the prodesign manifold and v-force which both take up a little more space than stock, pluss the carbs are longer than stock and between the carbs and the stock air box it was virgin pussy tight. The clutch arm rubbed on the bottom of the carb a little so I bent it down. Other manifolds like BOSS might eliminate that problem. If you run the stock type manifolds made for bigger carbs (see majicracing.com, or I think UPP makes them) it might help with spacing some and you can trim a little off the air box. I'd look into buying your own silicon tubing or some type of thin reinforced rubber hose to go from the box to the carbs. The silicon boots that I bought made for the stock box and the 34mm carbs sucked and cost way too much. I'm not running any crossover tube between the manifolds, I don't think it makes a hole lot of difference. Also, if you get the stock type boots you can use a stock crossover tube or boost bling bottle.

So If I want to get the maximum HP out of my 4mm motor, according to your accurate conceptions about carbs, allong your line of reasoning I should look into getting some duel 20mm carbs? How about you and I race 100 yards on foot while you suck air through one of those pinner coffee stirr stick straws and I'll use a big ol' Mac Donalds straws. I can see how some settups might make bigger HP dyno #'s on small carbs but not a typical 4mm motor, especially like a dune port. I'd say stock carbs would be fine on a mild trail port 4mm motor, if you want something more like a dune or drag port that will make a lot of HP then get some duel 34mm carbs.

They are working good for me. I thought tuning was pretty easy once I figured out which needle jet orafice I needed. The ones that came with the carbs new were too rich. The pilot and main size (as far as number size) are fairly similar to the stock carbs. They run a little bigger on the pilot and a little smaller on the main than stock carbs due to the larger bore size, plus my 4mm stroke probably pulls gas in a little different than stock stroke. I run a 35 pilot and 310 mains on my setup.

I think I paid about $135 or $140 each for my Mikuni TM34mm flat slides. If he is selling them to you already jetted for a banshee then thats not too bad. The pilots and neddle jet orafice that comes standard on the TM34's is too rich and the tubes cost about $16 ea, about $3 ea on the pilots. The mains off the stock banshee carbs are interchangeable. I think either sudco.com of proflo.com sells the carbs prejetted for the requested aplication as well so you only have to do minor jetting adjustments to get dialed. I think Magic racing.com sells the stock type carb intake manifold boots for probly a bit less. You could also fork out a little more dough and get a nice billet manifold. I might go with your gurus carbs if he is selling them pre-jetted for your motor, and I don't think there is a big performance difference between mikuni flatslides and similar Kehin carbs, in fact to me it seems like the Mikunis aren't as finiky to get the jetting dialed. However, like Loco said there are probably more builders and people on the HQ with Kehin jetting experience.