Ducman

I feel for your Fireman, I have had waaaaay better luck with FedEx. UPS fucked my motor when it was being shipped back to me, looked like they rolled the box down a flight of stairs, and their claim process was beyond fucked. I never did recover the damages, about $250. I will never ship UPS unless I absolutely have to. FexEx Ground is always a few bucks cheaper than UPS Ground and UPS doesn't stay on schedule for shit.

The hypertech will only correct your spedo if you are runniing a different tire size or rear dif ratio than stock. The only thing it can physically change about your transmission and how it drives is the shift firmness.

I know the difference between endplay and runout, I kinda red into it that he bent his axel in a crash or something since he said he "jacked up" his banshee and since he asked how to tell if his axel was straight. I figured the side to side may have been a wobble when turning the axel. His problem may be as simple as tightening the axel nuts. Either way, runout or endplay if he reads pages 293-295 he can figure it out.

The allowable run out is 1.5mm or 0.06 in. 1/16 in = 0.0625 in. so it may be OK. On pages 294 and 295 in the climers manual, it tells you how to inspect the axle and check runout with a dial indicator.

Loco, the 9 or 10 paddle extremes would probably be perfect, and my machine isn't putting out as much HP as yours was in March anyway. I'm still thinking about 21" or 22" to get the ground clearance in the ruts. Loco, you'll have to check out the OR coast dunes one day, when your in some of the one track hill climbs its like being on a rollercoaster, just pin the gas, duck under any branches, and hang on. You dont have any choise on where your going, you have to follow the chute. It gets deeply rutted and the taller tires have a big advantage and my big ass is a disadvantage. I couldn't even think about making it up the bottom section of the side chute on banshee hill (you Winchester bay guys know what I'm talking about). Also, loco, you need to post a full size pic of your avatar, the magnifying class on the computer screen just isn't cutting it.

I have a bracket I bought from RMatv (coolant relocate bracket) when I got my K&N pods that mounts it in the stock location in front of the tool pouch slot in the plastics. You may be able to just zip tie it there just fine W/O the bracket. You can run w/o the coolant overflow, a lot of guys just leave it off. I like having it because I can see that I have coolant, know that my radiator is clear full if the resevior has juice, and how much coolant I have lost without haveing to take off the radiator cover plastic to get to the rad cap.

I just checked RMatv and see that they have 21" extreme grip and haulers with 10 paddles in stock but both are with 8" rims. Wont the extra sidewall make them handle about like a 22 on a 10 inch rim or is the 21" still better handeling because of the smaller diameter?

Thanks odaen, that does sound about like the tire I want. I want to get up to Winchester for a 1 week long trip agin maybe in Oct. I'd definitely be cool to ride with some local HQers. Where's a good place to buy 21" skate tracks? I've only seen 20's and 22's on Rockey Mtn where I was thinking of buying them.

I posed this in the sand forum but didn't get any responses yet so here it is again. I'll be adding a +4 swingarm soon and I'll be going to a 10 paddle hauler. I'm debating on going with a 20" or a 22" tire (10" rim). I want to go with the 22" tire for ground clearance/traction in the gnarly hillshooting trails at Winchester bay which can be deeply rutted where you drag frame and axel with 20" tires, and your chain gets bound up some by the sand because your chain/sprocket is digging in as well. They are like narrow chutes through the trees with only 2 wheel tracks/ruts you must follow. Of coarse I want then also for good hook-up drag racing/ hill shooting. My main concern is that the 22's wont handle as well as the 20's for general dunning, sliding the ass end around/ roosting the top of the doon face, jumping, as I do a fair amount of play, trails, and jumps as well. I'm worried they wont turn well and be too bouncy. Have you tried 22's and what is your opinion. I know the 20's will handle better for general duning but how much handling difference is there with 22's? Also with 22's, if I use a 13 tooth front with the stock rear(42) will it be pretty similar to stock gearing with 20's? Thanks

The more performance mods you do the worse the mileage gets. Some say the 2 into one carb mod gets a bit better mileage. The only thing I think you could do to get better mileage on a stock bike would be to mill the head .030 or a cool head w/ smaller domes, although you cant go a hole lot smaller w/o needing race fuel.

I'm sure the indians did pray there... Pray that they could make it past that area with out dieing of thirst or starving because there aint shit out there and indian could eat or drink. I call B.S. on the sand church for indians. If anybody has had a religious experience there is was me, the first time I climbed the steep ass main mountain on the banshee and went over the razor on top to go down the other steep ass side. I prayed like a Nun in church that I didn't get stuck before I went over the razor. Put a hotel casino there so I dont have to drive 25 miles back to town, drain my wallet, and fuckin call it even bitch!

Any full system with a tapered or incrementally stepped head pipe and mid pipe will give a nice bottom through top end increase. A slip-on will give you a shit load more low to mid but only a little more top. If you want loud, go with Yosh or GYTR, if you want a little quiter system but still a straight through canister, get the LRD. I dont care for any of the mufflers that use the supertrap style disk setups. Also, I got the jettting below from the YFZ central, run this exact setup in my wifes YFZ and it kicks ass. Every body that has ridden it says it runs awsome. Buy the needle and jets individually from the dealer, the GYTR kit is a rip-off and doesn't have many jets that you will use other than the ones listed below. YFZ w/pipe and lid off: GYTR - ( NCVQ) needle #4 clip 168m 45p 2.5 turns mixture screw

Bikes haven't changed their looks all that much since about 1990 IMO, and unless you are an expert rider your not going to be able to use the performance of a new or even a 10 year old bike to its full potential. Most of the older models say up to around 1995 are also more comfortable to ride than the new models. Start off with a bike that you can pay cash for. Liability only insurance will still cost you $400 per year min. Suzuki and Kawaslapy will sell/finance a bike w/o full coverage but thats a lot of risk. You don't want to make payments on a wrecked pile of scrap. Also if your dad puts the bike in his name he probably wont be able to get insurance in his name since he doesn't have a MC liscense, if he can it will still be expensive, and if he gets insurance they will want to exclude you from the insurance or charge a but load of $ anyway. I ride a Ducati 996, but I had a old CBR600 and not quite as old ZX6 that I rode for a combined 35k miles before the duc which I finally bought new when I was 23 years old after having almost 6 years of street experience and 6 years dirt riding experience before that. The 996 is paid off but I still pay full coverage on it (although I have a sweet deal on insurance for the last couple years). If you do get a new R6 let me know, I want to take out a life insurance policy on you with me as the benificiary.

I'm not that familiar with the Keihins but in general the bore must be smaller than the slide or air will flow around the slide. Measure the slide and figure 1 mm or so smaller than the slide dia.

I'll be adding a +4 swingarm soon and I'll be going to a 10 paddle hauler. I'm debating on going with a 20" or a 22" tire (10" rim). I want to go with the 22" tire for ground clearance/traction in the gnarly hillshooting trails at Winchester bay which can be deeply rutted where you drag frame and axel with 20" tires, and your chain gets bound up some by the sand because your chain/sprocket is digging in as well. Also for good hook-up drag racing/ hill shooting. My main concern is that the 22's wont handle as well as the 20's for general dunning, sliding the ass end around/ shooting roost, jumping, and being bouncy as I do a fair amount of trails and jumps as well. I know the 20's will handle better for general duning but how much handling difference is there with 22's? Also with 22's, if I use a 13 tooth front with the stock rear(42) will it be pretty close to stock gearing with 20's?

dont get the carbs untill you get porting, dont get the manifold ultill you get the carbs, 34mm carbs will not fit the same manifold boots as stock.

ditto on grinding off the stock airbox mounts, almost wrecked a K&N pod on the left side and did wreck an outerwear. Manifold boots will be fine even with larger carbs using pods.

Not bad? Thats $4.16/ gal

The price just went up to 2.59/gal this morning at the cheap places in Nor Cal. "98 R.O.N. is the same as 89 M.O.N" not necessarily, but this is probably a close approximation for typical pump gas. The difference between the MON and RON numbers is called the "sensitivity" if I remember correctly, and can vary which is why (R+M)/2 is a more reliable octane number.

No smaller than 280 with the lid off and a foam filter, 290 if it will be getting down to 60 degrees F.

For practically the same money you could get a WRX Sti or a Lancer EVO VIII, both are 4 doors get over 20mpg and would easily run circles around the Volvo. Although the S60 R is a good looking car IMO.

I like to find helmets or boots I like at the stealership, try them on and make sure they fit and look good in person, then see how much cheaper I can get the same model on e-bay. Ususally its a pretty significant amount of $ you can save.

That site is new to me. That has the best selection of banshee pipes I've ever seen on any 1 website. They even have Rockets. Looks to be good prices on all the banshee pipes I looked at. Pretty good price on the Trinity Stage IV stainless pipes although I mainly like them just because they are stainless. You should buy a set of pipes from them and do a review on customer service and comparative prices.

I'm sure they will work, that is, your bike will run and have top end power. However, those pipes aren't tuned for a stock motor, you may loose a fair amount of bottom end. It would be hard to say unless you tried them, but a pipe made for the stock motor would probably perform a lot better. The newer style LRD pipes (they do not make "adjustable" pipes anymore) are better.

Like mentioned above, go +6 at the most to maintain some decent turnability.