Ducman

MonkeyBoy Which one of your parents was a monkey? I'm guessing your dad was the zoo keeper at the chimpanzee house and thats why you like to crap in your hand and fling it people randomly, like in this thread?

Looks like a set of sand stars screwed a set of geckos and those are the resulting offspring.

Hey, I'm from a po dunk lil' hick town. I grew up on the farm, hauled hay, milked cows, pulled calves, and shoveled tons of shit. (Although I do phucken hate most C U Next Tuesday! :pry music) However, I can still apprecialte some pail skinned, dark makeup, pierced eybrow babe. Even better... Throw her on top of a barbie doll fake tittied blond. Its all good so why be pickey! Even, dildo dune girl is someones dream babe. I've never "been" with a slut, but I have known a few and they are usually fun and outgoing people with less inhibitions and moral "hang-ups" than the typical women. Hell, my wife who is way the hell up on her moral high horse calls girls sluts for just wearing sexy come Fock me clothing out in public, so every ones perseption is totally different anyway. Every non bible thumping guy and even some that are would be a slut if they could be.

Its all fun and games untill someone looses an eye. Then its more fun and games with your friend who lost an eye. Bettler Banshee, I think you have learned a couple of lifes hard lessons and you will be better off in the future for having learned them. Unfortunately the present will probably suck. Good luck.

Congrats, only 2 more mothes and she will be sleeping through the night!

I forgot to mention the 2 in my previous equation is because there are 2 cylinders. Well if you dont have some sort of aftermarket cylinders there not going to be bored to 75.5mm. A typical big bore sleeve kit will take the stock cylinders to 68mm which is 392cc. If they are bored 75 thousanths over (.0755) I guess this would be fore a .060 over piston which would be a 65.5mm piston. So the cc for a 65.5mm piston would be 364cc

If you could get someone that is knowledgeable in jetting banshees to help you do it once, I'm sure you could do it yourself the next time. It is not hard at all but figuring it out for the first time by yourself could be tough if you've never done it before. I would post all of the mods on your shee, air box configuration, ect. to get a good jetting reccomendation then post on the HQ to find someone near you that is a pro at banshee jetting and would be willing to show/teach you how for a case of beer or a couple of $'s. Dealerships will screw you, like 2 hrs @ $75/hr for jetting a shee and most of them don't know shit about what size jets to run with what mods so you end up with bad jetting anyway. Read BenBB's jetting FAQ, ( click here) it is one of the best articles to read on banshee jetting. It will tell you everything you need to know to safely and correctly jet your banshee.

I have a friend that runs the Amsoil 100:1. He likes it because it smokes a lot less than mixes that are in the 40:1 range. You can actually smell the race fuel rather than the burning oil. He always complains about the stinky bean oil when riding behind be. Guess there are some people that don't like the smell of castor 927. I have considered switching to Amsoil 100:1 but havn't yet because it is not available locally. Although I can get almost any oil for 1/2 price through online order compared to the local stealerships, not taking into acount the shipping price. 100:1 oil would be much more efficient on shipping cost though.

To calculate volume of a cylinder you use 2 ( Pi )( r^2)(d) Assuming stock stroke, 54mm = 5.4cm and r= (bore/2) = 37.75mm = 3.775cm so 2(3.14)(3.775^2)(5.4) = 483.5 cm^3 that is 483.5 cubic centemeters = one fat hog of a cylinder!

+1 Reed spacers can improve or hurt performance, very slight difference either way. I dont thing you can port v-force, not very much material to the cage frame to begin with and its made of plastic. Porting stock reed cage, yes.

100LL is aroound 101 octane by (R+M)/2 method. You could use straight premium pump fuel 91 or 93 octane the way you are set up now. If you go to +7 timing you probably need to use the pump/ av fuel mix you are currently using. If you go to 17cc domes you will definitly need a welded crank and 110 octane and it wouldn't have any benifits on top end power, probably hurt top end power in fact on a typical moderatley ported cylinder motor, same goes for too much timing. It would give a lot of low end/ mid range torque but not top end. You will need to replace the piston rings much more freequently to maintain that high compression. I would recommed just getting it ported, keep +4 timing w/ 21cc domes and run straight premium pump fuel. If you want to run straight 100ll then get some 19cc domes and +4 timing.

Very nice deal. Check the compression to see if you may need the top end rebult any time soon. You can get a guage for about $15 at any autopart store. You can get a Clymers manual at any motorcycle dealership, yamaha usually has them is stock for a banshee or easy to find and buy online.

Thanks Lee, BHQ rocks! You've created an awsome web site that many thousands of banshee fanatics have got to enjoy and hopefully thousands more. Thanks Modquad. This billet stuff is top notch. I probably wouldn't have bought it for my self but I sure as hell will proudly sport this blig on my quad now.

If I were you I'd just stay with the stock swinger. I used to be able to wheelie like mad with my stock swinger and cant hardly wheelie at all with the +4. You have to have a lot more traction to get the front end up. Its basically darn near impossible to ride a wheelie with a +4 swinger on a gravel/dirt road or get very good trackion, the rear tires just spin. But they do kick ass in the sand for drag type launches and are awsome for hill climbs. +4 still handle decent, makes it just a little harder to slidle the ass end around and makes the front want to push more. The rear suspension feels way more plush but bottoms a lot easier. The main advantage of a longer swinger is to keep the front end down.

Depends on what type of filter you are using (K&N or foam), airbox lid on or off, what type of air temps and elevation. With the stock air box and filter w/lid on sea level and 80 deg F. you can run 27.5 or 30 pilot air screws 1.5 to 2.5 turns out, needle middle clip, 260 mains If you are running K&N filter w/air box lid off, sea level, 40 degrees F. you can run 30 pilot, 1.5 turns out, needle 4th clip from blunt end (one clip position richer) and 320 mains. These are 2 examples of one extreme to another but will be correct jetting for the circunstances. You will be at or between these 2 settings.

Those rockets only have spring eyes on the bottom of the pipe? Mine have them on top and bottom.

I bought a utility trailor from CostCo 2 years ago. The trailor make is Snow Bear. I got mine for $600 OTD (%7.25 sales tax in CA). Their probably about $700 otd now. Home depot has the same trailor for a couple $'s more but it is already assembled. You have to put the gates on the front and back of the trailor down to make it 12' long and it will haul 2 sport quads. I dont have any pics of just the trailor but at least you can tell it has 2 quads on it.

That is about the max tire size that you would want to run on the front and back. I think it would suck for mx. 22" rears are going to be pretty bulky and make it harder to slide the back end around. It will give you more ground clearance for rockey gnarly trails. If you run 22's in back then a 13 tooth in front will give you similar to stock gearing. 14 tooth with 22's will be prety tall.

165psi sound really high for 22 cc domes at 0' elev. should be more like 130psi. Anyway, 19cc domes would typically require at least a 50/50 mix of 110 octane and 91octane pump fuel at a minimum.

If you have a bent rod, you might as well just buy a new crank and have it tued and welded before it is sent. The cheapest power valve motor, most reliable and uses stock banshee pistons would be to run a set of jugs off of an RZ350 (street bike motor). There are a lot of little things you need to run the RZ jugs with powervavles but if you can find a RZ 350 parts bike that has all of the stuff you can do it pretty cheap. You can probably make more power with the cheetah pvl cylinders though. I think the RZ cylinders would make a bad ass all around motor though.

With 21cc domes at 156 you should be fine on 91octane pump fuel.

I had 4 removed with just novicane. It hurt like hell and felt like I was in some sort of alen autopsy. But the recovery was no big deal. The first day was a little painful, I had some vikaden, beer, and weed (trifecta) and I didn't feel a damb thing. Make sure you get to the drug store for your vikaden before the drugs wear off.

You got it. I would say that 1mm, or a very light and or patchy inconsistant ring is getting pretty lean and 3 mm is getting way too rich. 2mm is right on the money. I did a couple plug chops and got a ring that was not quite 2mm and not as solid of a ring as I expected and then ran on a dyno with a sniffer and came up with a WOT A/F that was about 1 main size too lean, at least for a recreation/play motor. I found that it was pretty difficult to really get a good look at the ring and measure w/o cutting a windo section out of the threads, at least when you are doing your final fine tune plug chop.

With my mods I can ride 5th gear wheelies on flat smooth sand, like on the beach with a 13 tooth front, so about 55 mph or so.

last (unfortunately) but not least