wansomordis

I can pick up a +2 - +4 lonestar for 330 and thats with shipping minus sales tax. So Im not seeing where your getting a good deal from edzbanshee.. Not trying to run ya down But there are cheaper out there..

I agree 100 % with you ... Won't hurt the bike any at all. But won't see any High gains in power.. It will burn cleaner which in turn makes motor run cooler..Also less carbon buildup.. I think some people on here think there Engine builders by some of the replys..You ask a question to a performance shop and a 14 year old gives you a wild answer.. Go figure

This KID sure has alot of time on his hands...OH I forgot schools out...

Amen Brother

Don't understand what the chain on the kicker is for ??? If the nut comes loose and the bolt falls out than the chain will then fall off so hows the chain keep you from loosing yhe kicker.. Or is there another purpose that I'm missing..

I have a DG BAJA full chassis skid plate off an 01 Banshee and the A-Arms Guards as well.. They are not bent but have the normal scratches on the bottoms..I got the frame powdercoated now and don't want skid clamps to make marks.. Full skid retails for 105.00 A-arm guards retail 68.00 What will YOU give ??? Will sell together or seperate... Want pics let me know

Is the tors removal kit with thumb throttle/twist ?? And does it come with the idle screws... Give me a price or let me know whats in the kit and ill tell ya what I'll give

I am wanting to do a leakdown test on a friends banshee and was wondering what you guys use.. They sell a leakdown kit for a 2 stroke for 263.30 but I ain't paying that.. I do have a breakline bleeder pump which would create the suction that has a guage attached.. And if you guys can tell how much suction for how long and what to look for ....The bike is leaking crank oil out the exhaust..

The proper way is to mark the middle tread (a line) from inside to outside on the 2 tires...then use a tape measure and measure the distance from side to side from the frontside then rotate the tires so that the lines which you marked are on the backside towards rear tires... Then take that measurement.. There should be only half 1/2 inch difference and they should be toed in ..which means front measurement should be lesser... This is for stock A-arms

I don't understand why you won't say who done the piss poor work ??? If I have a problem with a pro shop then I'm gonna let EVERYBODY know.. Thats why we send thing to them is because they are suppose to know what there doing. And by you letting them take your money and waste your time you to them are a sucker...Why not help the next guy deciding where to send there crank or motor the hassle you went through.... As with me the only problem I have is with Trinity.. They make damn good parts but there customer service blows...

what part of show us the DAMN pics DON'T you UNDERSTAND.. You keep saying come on man I need the money..I need to get those spinners. I need..I need..I need.I need...How bout stop thinking about yourself and post some pics

That makes 2 of us that HAVE done the unpossible.... I also added grease zerks to the bottom A-arm Ball Joints

Hmmm I was starting to think I was the only one that was having problems with those cheap allen head bolts.. Pretty bad the bolts are hard to tighten even when new

Well If them DAmn R's are SOOOOO good than why don't they still make em ??????? The R's I'd say your refering too are not stock..Don't know Of any that hasn't had several thousand dumped into them... I agree a Banshee is way out dated but if demand is high why change it..Why put more money (factory) into making it better when they can leave it the way it is and sell just as many..

You gotta be nuts if you'd use water ..... If I had to use anything I'd go with kerosene and maybe blow some air into it through the oil plug then flush it again..The air might dislodge any pieces wedged in there..

I have to agree with ya... Take the top hose that hooks onto the overflow bottle and make it about 6 inches and use a zip tie to secure it onto the frame by the swingarm don't tighten the zip tie up too much or the cap on the bottle will pop off and you will lose it..I know from experience..

If i remember right a 32mm bolt head will fit the steering stem nut(gold thing) Just weld a nut onto the 32mm bolt and use the head to loos"n the steering nut.. I know what I'm TRYING to say...

Duncan Racing charger 100.00 don't know about anywhere else

If its been sitting for awhile could there me rust on the flywheel causing it not get enough spark??If theres rust on the outside of the flywheel (which doesn't hurt anything)more than likely its on the stator points too and inside of flywheel.. Take some sealant and fill that boot that the coil wires run through..Stops water for getting to the stator..just my thoughts

Do you know how much those things cost ??? 9.95 EACH http://216.37.204.205/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaATV...e=13&A=178&B=35

Ebc is the way to go..I've ran some cheap pads and all they do is squeak..Not any more

Wouldn't the first thing to check is to make sure the slides are in the correct carbs ???

most start out at 20-150 1/2 drive..Anything that goes to 100 would be just fine

I just installed my shift star and torqued the pressure plate down with no problems with the same ft pounds..I'd try another torque wrench..