WriteTwisted

The other side to the story is that, the banshee is new to me and the previous owner did some buchery to the carbs. Damage to the carb bodys, striped threads, mangled parts. So I am going to want to get another set of stock carbs anyway? I don't have the money to invest right now in a full exhaust, or motor work. So, would I be better to find a used set of stock carbs, or is there a set of some other type of carbs that would complement a stock setup? Do any of you have a set of good condition stock carbs? How much? I put a post in the want to buy section for stock carbs as well... Thanks,

The Banshee I recently purchased, needs a few repairs. 1 of which being the carbs. Parts are striped, broken and missing. So I am looking for a complete set of stock carbs, needles, floats, slides, springs, everything. Please let me know if there is anybody that has a set in good condition. Thanks Andrew hazze@rocketmail.com

Stock motor and stock exhaust. Looking to ditch the stock carbs for something a little better. Have heard this greatly helps the power band and efficiancy. What are my options, what are the positives and negatives I plan on keeping everything pretty stock, I will probubly do the reeds and air filter with the carbs... What carbs would suit a stock bike best? Anyone have a set available? Thanks

K so did a little investigation yesterday afternoon, fairly frustrating... Carbs seem ok, mains are 210's pilots are stock, inside of carbs clean and seem normal. Compression, good on both cylenders and withing a psi of each other. What is the stock compression???? Air filter is old and stock, but I tried running without it and it made no difference Brand new 92 fuel, good oil, proper mix. so here it is.. Idles and revs in neutral like a champ. Idles in gear not bad, but the second you give it some throttle in gear it drops a cylender. Always the left side. Every time. Keep you thumb in it or feather the clutch and it will come back, but unless you are high into the revs in will cut out again. I did a plug check several times, right side burns nice, left side always washed. And I mean washed. You can also tell at the exhust joints and muffler tip of the left cyclender raw fuel and oil. Disconnected tors no help. Tradded the plug wires back and forth the washed plug does not follow the plug wires, both seem to have plenty of spark. So I drive in first second, what ever gear, mid to low RPM and it will only run on the right cyclender, loads right up on fuel. But if it just sits idling, it will run on both, or if it is really high revs it will kick the second cyclender in. If I do a flat out run all the way through the gears, I can maintain both cylenders at high revs, but the seccond the revs drop I loose the left cyclender again. Always the left. One other thing, starting stone cold, with float bowls dry. Choke to get er going, then hop right on the throttle, runs like it should, for a minute or less. Then starts to load up on gas within a minute or two, and back to the same problem. Not surprising but it seems to be burning a tonn of fuel!!!! Anyhow, what would be causing this???? Gotta be something in the carb??? Reeds??? Bad motor???? Any help would be great! Thanks

Thanks for the tips. Good advice I will do a good once over the whole bike and ensure all the basics. I will pst what I find. Thanks again

Just bought a '99, Pretty stock bike all around, the mufflers have been gutted, the motor was rebuilt top to bottom about a year ago, and the previous owner says that it has been jetted (mains) Been out on a couple of short rides, and I am finding the power band falls on it's face leaving from a standing start in first. Revs are awsome in neutral, seems to have plenty of power once it's it's rolling and steady in the power. But just getting going, I can put it in first drop the cluch and give it full throttle and it almost dies. Am I looking at something electrical, coil or stator breaking down under load? or is there just some tuning I need to correct. Drop or raise the needles, different mains, etc.. BTW stock air box and filter, Thanks for any imput

First Kick Every Time!!!!

Downtown Orillia, Ontario!

That was the problem. I put a little hose in between the carbs. Kicked twice, she fired and idled awsome!!!! Thanks for the tips guys

Pilots were cleaned when the carbs were off, they should not be a problem. This choke tube you speak of however, it does not exist!!!! There is nothing running between the two carbs right now??? I will have to make one up and give that a shot! HMMMMMM

Main's are clean, that's the first thing I check when I get them off. I have burned down motors befour - didn't like it. Choke tube - I assume you are refurring to the brass tube running into the float bowl, if so yup Carb boots are A-OK Out of Sync slides should cause poor idle but, but wouldn't cause the rev's to spike or extreamly hard starting. -I heard dissabling the TORS will cause erratic idle if you didn't install the idle kit, is that true because I did dissable the TORS and did NOT install and idle kit. If that is the case, How would disconnecting the TORS effect the idle anyhow???

Carbs were just dunked and scrubbed on Friday morning. They are spotless inside and out. So they shouldn't be the problem...

Got out ta play on the weekend, but "shee" wasn't working like I hoped. The thing has been sitting for a few years and I just put life back into her last week. It will not start when it's cold unless you physically dump gas into the carbs. When it does get going it idles terribly, very spirratic, will suddenly rev way up in RPM then die off and start back fireing. When it is warm it's hit and miss. Sometimes it idles down and runs nicely other times it just dies. Compression is a little low around 110 psi But I was thining the reeds might be warped from sitting for so long??? Any Ideas, reeds are cheap and easy, so I'll probubly give them a shot first.

Go big or go home... But be prepared to take the bike home in pieces!!!! BTW it will only hurt if you crash!!!!!!

Right on, Thanx for the tips