wansomordis

Hey that makes 2 of us WELL you and my buddy.. here is the link from which my question was answered... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=25993

I'd like to see a picture..Got a link ???

I'd have to disagree.. A stock one will get so hot that it can break fins off of it..Also any type of plastic when heated will flex resulting in less cooling which isn't a good thing. Even if ia pro-design causes a slight loss of horsepower do you think running HOT makes more ???????pro-design is the way to go and also prolongs engine life

I pulled the stator off put mine on it and it started up ..well kinda... I looked down at the motor and saw oil leaking from the pipe clamp so I shut it off and my buddy said it done that before on second Heat-up.. I knew that it couldn't be 2 stroke oil so I checked the crankcase and sure enough it was dry (was full cause I put 1 3/4 quarts in it after rebuild).. could the cool-head domes which are 20cc be too much compression for pump gas 93 octane bored 30 all stock except T-5's.. trinity racing said it would be just fine..???Which in turn the pressure blew a crankseal or something ????Where would oil be coming through at ?? We pulled the motor and I put my finger on the side of the piston and turned the flywheel which turned about 1/4 of the way..Not good Huh Also top pistons looked a lil rough from what I could see Thanks,Guys

I have a puller so I'll give the stator a look... And with it off can U tell if crank bearings are bad ??

I've heard that the reliablity rate on the vito's power pistons are shorter because they are lighter ?? dunno I'd go with wiseco pro-lites

Did you drill/tap it with it all together or did you take bearings out first ??

The choke tube which I think he is talking about is the tube that runs from one carb to the other between the two.. straight black hose about 2-3 inches long..

Trinity instructions say to start up bring it up to operating temp then let cool and re-torque to 20ft pounds

I helped rebuild the top end of my buddies shee and now when you kick it over it sounds like a slaping noise on the low flywheel side.. with spark plugs in you can hear it better but seems to go away with plugs out???One thing we didn't replace on the top end was the wrist pin bearings and after reading several posts I've found out that was stupied so were going to tear it back down and put them in (didn't come with wiseco Kit) But the bike was Idleing on the third warn up cycle when it died and now it doesn't have any spark thats when the noise started??? Could it be the stator thats making the noise ?? Took cover off didn't see anything lying in there.tested all other parts with my shee and nothing bad ?? Tested green/white red/white wire and had juice but spark at the plug comes and goes very weak.. How do you check the crank bearings with the cylinders off ??? A long post but I figured I'd gives as much info as possible--Thanks

If might be fine to use a rag to get it off but how you going to torque it to 65 ft pounds putting it back on ???? I made these for about 5 bucks at the most Looks aren't everything .. work just fine better than paying 30 for motion Pro's

You hit that nail on the head.. Best $75.00 I've ever spent on the shee

I have a trinity one and the only down fall is that you gotta use there domes..

I looked at those adjustment and seemed fine where they were but it was in netural.. Should it be in gear ???

I like there pipes STAINLESS is the way to go.. They have went up in price in the last year but what hasn't ?? just .02

I agree... My dirt digger works great...Clutch was stiff cause of the stiffer springs but won't slip ...As for those VESRAH CLUTCHES there for people on a budget or who likes to change clutches often

just wondering about the shift star.....I got it back yesterday for duncan racing and never noticed that there was a pin in it.. So I pushed it so it sticks out the back and applied loctite to it and also the back of the star itself.. Is this the correect way (Clymer manual doesn't cover the removal of shift star).. But I did torque the screw to proper amount.

I had one and it wouldn't disengage enough with stiffer clutch springs and it was with a dirt digger clutch kit...So I just but it back to reg clutch and sold hydraulic one on E-bay.. For the people that have them are you using stock springs ????

yeah a pic would help out a lot...

Hey I found a web site to buy stainless steel bolts and was wondering are they average priced or full blown crooks ????? http://www.boltdepot.com/metric-socket-products.aspx

I'd say use the money for the bolts any buy yourself a manual cause your gonna need it talking like that.. And you use 10/30 to mix with your gas right 1 qt to 5 gallons???

Your going to get high centered riding in 4x4 ruts Rule of thumb= If your unsure give it more gas..

I noticed it on mine one day and just bend it back (before the powdercoating)..Then looked at a buddies and his had wore a grove in it. But after bending his back works just fine..Factory P.O.S. How about a close up of that frame

I'd say Trinity Stage IV pipes.......They are Stainless which WILL NOT dull,Peel,or rust, Plus you don't have to pay $70 for aluminum pipe clamps to seal the silencers to the pipes ..And they are a mid-high rev pipe https://id304.securedata.net/trinityracing....3&products_id=1

What the odds of you finding that the guy next door is on BHQ and that he has an extra hub that he'd part with ??????Ever heard of Overnight delivery Also your location is not given