wansomordis

I'd get a six point socket not a 12 which you probably used about 1/2 inch drive? And go one size smaller that what you used 13 ?? And beat that onto the nut and will come off just fine.. might help beating on it with bike on its side that way you have more leverage.. I think it would be a little hard to get vice grips on the back wheel lug nuts..Just my .02

I agree with vmaxup but also was Just wondering if your slides are in the wrong carbs (won't run on both cylinders till half throttle)???? Did this happen all of a sudden or after you were working on it.. ??

Well I run vp C-12 in my push mower mixed with klotz.. My yard isn't very big so I don't wanna buy another jug.. smells like I'm at the races.. A little oil in the gas just acts as a lube..You don't think gas doesn't contain some oil ?????Just my 2cents 2004LEBanshee-Wrote It just sucks that I just dumped out 4 gallons of premium gas and probly some premix. But oh whell I just couldnt risk it.---- And where did you dump those 4 gallons of gas ??????On the GROUND ??????

Well i take it that its all stock ?? If it is than take the seat off then you will see 2 screws 1 one the top of each carb... to make it idle higher turn each screw clockwise the SAME amount which about a half a turn should be enough if not adjust a little more... As for the dealer-NEVER take ANYTHING to them

me 4....no but heard good things about them I' run the renthal R3 chain and sprockets as a set as have had very little streatch..For the price it should last a lifetime.. How many other people use armor all l instead of chain lube just on an O-ringed chain ?????????

I bought one of those ARMADILLO bumpers outta Rocky Mountain and noise dived into the other side of a creek crossing and it flattened against the frame (first ride with it) ..My advise don't spend 110.00 on that bumper.. Now I have a AC Mud screen alot better make..

If its wrong than whats the right way ????? I'd like to know myself I tested a buddies stator the other day and got a reading then I checked the pick up coil ()the other 2 wires in that plug-in) which I didn't get anything..Whats that mean stator junk ??

Nice choice of words

I had my bottom stock ones powdercoated... One ball joint got melted so had to have another one done... I then drilled the bottom of them and put in a grease jerk to fill them back up..They have been on for about 2 years and are nice N tight.. However If I had known that at that time I probably would have just painted them..(I was a lucky one)...Oh I just resued the metal retainer thing too

Not junk I have a set of covers that are the eye balls that are black/white/red with the blood shot look to them with the lights 25.00 shipped.....Lights work but were turned on under the covers so the lens has a melted look to them..PM me if ya want pisc.. lights are off a 2000

I have a set of Stainless trinity stage IV's about a year old (won't,rust/peel/dull) ... Been repacked once ... Nothing wrong with them just want Paul turners to go with national kit.. I'll let them go for 400.00 If interested I'll send ya a Pic...

I'd have to agree yamabond #4 ACC-11001-30-00 part number if ya need it

All rear wheels off a warrior are 4/115 which will fit all years banshee except 89-90 when they went with a 4/156 as for the blaster fronts they all will bolt up..hope this helps

10x1.25 at 32 ft pounds torque Try using a six point socket they'll last longer

Your wanting to buy a used one ??? Here is the new part # through yamaha... 93315-11720-00 BEARING,CYL.#15 $10.33 While your at it put in a new seal 93102-17004-00 OIL SEAL,SD-TYPE $3.99

I'd have to say Duncan Pyramid reeds but never have used V-force

Nacs racing has a complete top-End & Piston Kit for 152.95 includes 2 pistons,2 rings, 4 circlips, 2 wrist pins and gasket set... or rockymountainatv has pistons for 64.99 each which includes everything except gaskets and they are 16.99 for top-End Total of about 147.00 Both of these are Wiseco Pro-lites Up to U

Sell ya a set of Trinity Stainless for 400... If ya aint gonna pay much dont expect much

Everything seems to work just fine. The kicker is straight up when not in use.. But when you goto start it it takes a few extra kicks cause of the lack of force that can be applied..I'd hate to try to start it when it was cold or low on compression. It's always been like since new just never gave it any thought before until tearing into mine the other day.

I was ridding a buddies bike the other day and noticed that the kicker doesn't seem to catch until its half way down..The kicker is level when closed but when you fold it out and put your weight on it that is when you notice that it is already half way down. Mine on the other hand catches about a quarter of the way down..In turn allows more downforce which means it starts easier. His bike is a 01 and has never been apart. I started looking at mine the other day when I pulled shift star to get machined and looked to see what what might not be engaging all the way on his..Let me know of any thoughts or Ideas..Thanks

I'd pull the stator cover off and sand the Metal tip that hooks to the stator and the tits on the flywheel. Not sure of proper name..

When they powdercoat it they could addl a little yellow to the black which in turn would make it a metallic looking color Where do u plan or riding ?? Hope not in the mud with black plastic

Here's how I've always changed them.. I lay cardboard on the ground lay rim on it then use a bumper jack and put the bottom of the jack against the bead and start to jack the truck up.Always breaks the bead for me..

There is a guy on E-bay time to time that will fix factory ball joints buy it now = 20 for a pair.. I have my doubts.. If I were a betting man I'd say he's taking the rubber boot off N pouring liquid plastic on them ?? Just a guess.

I don't know where you were looking for factory specs but they are 20 ft pounds..If you asked the Stealership thats where you went wrong....FACTORY HEAD = 20 FT pounds