Trick2stroke

I had a banshee yfz hybrid a while back and really didn't like it as much as I thought I would. I liked the feel of the banshee with a +2+1 front and -2 rear better. I wonder, I haven't found much in the way of information on this but how does using YFZ or Raptor spindles on aftermarket banshee specific a arms affect the geometry? I wouldn't think there would be any negative effect. I have never individually weighed the two side by side but I have to assume the aluminum spindles are lighter.

Looks bad ass! You did a good job. I agree, better safe than sorry.

Can't afford hipers up front too or what?

Looks heavy and over engineered. You shouldn't need that much reinforcement there.

How old are you? You seriously sound like a 13 year old kid who dropped out of school.

A long time ago when I got my first banshee we also had a police radar set up near my house. With fmf's and 15/40 gearing it showed around 80 if I remember right. Doesn't really matter though unless you're blasting down some fire roads, you never see those speeds with 90% of riding.

I can't believe you would even consider posting this bullshit on a forum where people know what they are talking about. 22k worth of work? Listed as having a stock head, then a cool head, then in your ebay listing it as a 421 cheetah? It clearly has stock cylinders. Next thing you know he will claim it's a wompus. If you seriously want to make any money; learn how to spell, figure out what is actually on the bike, and part it out. Clearly you have more money than sense.

That's why I threw that little disclaimer in there saying I don't know how this would be in the dunes with paddles as I've never been. lol In my area of Texas that kind of riding is not found but people still think it's cool to lower and extend the poor thing for unjustified reasons, just following the trend when it isn't necessary. That's what I was getting at, not knocking anyone with an extended swinger such as yourself where it makes sense or is almost required for ride-ability.

Bought parts off Rob also. Great guy to deal with, good parts, would not hesitate to buy again.

Also bought some parts from trailshee. Great transactions, easy to deal with, good parts, good prices. Would do business again.

Bought a crank from DP and it looks great, fast shipping and very good communication. Great guy to deal with and would do it again.

Fast shipping, tracking number, good communication, good parts as described. Would do business again.

Bought some more parts off Tony, a pleasant experience as always! Cheap parts perfectly described. Will do more more business in the future for sure. Thanks again Tony! Blake

What's your budget? gottagofast suggested the cheapest route.

You're really missing out with the stock crank. A 4 mil would have much more torque. Try out a pipe better designed for the larger engine, pro circuits are a good choice. Also maybe try a 2-1 intake set up. Who built your serval? You should ask them for their input.

It's a bit of an epidemic, people go out and pay as much as possible for new parts, throw them on a banshee, never ride it, then try and recoup their expenses. Sure it may look pretty and the parts are nice but the second they're not new from a vender with a warranty or anything they loose value, couple that with a down market and you are out a lot of money. Most people also like to have a hand in making their bikes nice, not buying one already done up from someone else. You have to accept this fact when you build it and either get your moneys worth out of it or ask yourself why you did it in the first place...

I would imagine the cheapest route is a lowering link for the linkage or having the stock shock shortened. There may be a shock swap off another bike that will lower it. Depends on how you need to it perform also, what is the reason for lowering?

It would really help your cause if you had someone to film your events and take professional pictures. You can't go on word anymore, you need footage and a paper trail, start building a resume if you are serious about this.

Probably going to take some shit for this but... Extended swing arms. The banshee already has horrible turning radius and traction, why make it worse? Unless you're pushing over 90 hp I don't see why you want a +4 or +6 or more unless it is purpose built for hill climb/drag. Before I get jumped saying you can't keep your front end down, I've had a ported 4 mil with a -2.5 swinger in the past and the newest build will have the same or a 4 mil serval with anywhere from a -2 to stock length swinger. Keep in mind I'm not a duner or anything so I don't know how paddles effect this. If you ever rode a -2 on a banshee with a +1 forward front end it is not even comparable, really an amazing difference in the dirt. Also lowering... I see too many lowered banshee's with +6 swing arms on bald hole shots that it just makes me sick.

Count me in for the mx or trail class.

Email me some pics at [email protected].

The weights spin out but pivot against a fixed point which leverages the pressure plate inwards, adding pressure, along with the springs. You're thinking about it in reverse essentially.

Can anyone confirm wether or not the yfz and banshee have the same rear bolt pattern for the sprocket hub? I'm 90% sure they do but I'd really appreciate it if anyone could chime in here.

Title says it all, looking to go shorter. PC is in great condition, swinger is perfectly sound and like new.

I'd also like to get some carb recommendations. I have a 39 mm lectron I was thinking of using with a 2-1 set up. Would this be sufficient for an mx/xc type build on a 4 mil serval?