94BansheeRider

So you can show me the way to the short bus. The last year at 40:1, and the previous year at 32:1

It is truly a sad day for metal fans all over the world. Dimebag was one of the greatest. At least the asshole that shot him got what he deserved. What a prick.

I have two years and two hard riding trips to Glamis on mine since last rebuild. Getting ready to tear open the top and see what's there. Oh yea, rstaw2_Zs: YOU SOFA KING WE TODD IT.

Some friends and I will be there over T-day weekend and into the following week. What can we expect for crowds at Buttercup and Glamis?

Are all of the teeth accounted for on the rear sprocket? You might not notice a missing tooth if the chain is covering it. Is everything aligned (rear to front sprocket)?

When the new chain was installed was the chain on the top or bottom of the lower roller? Should be on top. If it is on the bottom, it will chew it up and make noise like that.

Just out of curiosity, how old are you? I had the same pain in my right shoulder, right between the collar bone and the outside of the shoulder. At first they thought it was rotator cuff. After several MRI's and Ultrasounds, the doc said it was arthritis. Go figure. I'm only 35. It hurt like hell for about 6 months. Couldn't even sleep. Finally had a couple of cortizone shots in the front of the shoulder. I have about 90% back now but it still hurts every once in a while. By the way, I was carrying some lumber on my shoulder when it started. I don't let it stop me from riding, that's for sure. It actually feels better when I do. Hope you find out it's nothing serious.

Should be: low, mid, and high, in that order.

I had mine on a dyno last Xmas before Glamis. It came in at 61 RWHP. Since then I have removed the K&N Xstreme Filter lid and rejetted. Haven't had it on the dyno, but I think I gained 4-5 HP.

I believe it's a 96

I agree with DUNEDEMON, #00 steel wool and glass cleaner. I have used this combo many times, and it works great.

I have had this problem since I bought mine in 94. Like the others say, it's coolant that gets trapped in the line then finally comes out on your pipes. I rerouted the drain hose so that it dumps on the ground near the swingarm pivot point (no reason to stain chrome pipes). Or you can move it up front under the nose piece. I just add coolant to the res and don't think anything about it. To me, it's just one of those pre-riding checks that I do. If it's low, I add some to it. A small empty dishwashing soap squeeze bottle works great.

Sounds like the idle adjustment needs tweaking. Probably 1/4 to 1/2 turn in should do it (Located under the front of the seat, on the back side of the TORS units)

Metal all the way Definitely getting into the Death Metal groove, but I like a lot of the new metal coming out nowadays. Opeth, Killswitch Engage, Shadows Fall, OLD Slayer, Motorhead, King Diamond/Mercyful Fate, Nevermore, Pantera/Damageplan, OLD Metallica (New Sucks BALLS), Exodus, Fear Factory, Iced Earth, and last but not least... I R O N M A I D E N

I believe it is a 32mm socket and an impact. There is an exact torque setting in the Clymers manual, but I don't know it off the top of my head. I have owned an AMP link. I loved it when I had it on, really kept the rear end on the ground. The only reason I took it off is because I shredded the lower gear. No fault of the link, just me being a dumbass . Some people say that they rob horsepower. I think it does rob a little, but if you have well tuned semi-modded shee, it's not really noticeable. Hope this helps...

I have one from my 94. It is straight, just needs to be cleaned up a little. Make me an offer.

We heard from other people also that if we went, we would more than likely not return. So we wound up going back down to Eufaula dam to ride. The lake levels around here are finally starting to drop, so that should open up some of the better riding areas that we have been wanting to ride at.

50/50. Less coolant will make it run warmer. If it's only going to be 75 - 80 degrees, you really shouldn't have a problem with overheating.

Just north of Whitefield on hwy 2. On the north side of the bridge there is a parking area on the west side. Here is a link for the sat. image: http://terraserver-usa.com/image.aspx?t=1&...y=2439&z=15&w=1 The main sandbar starts at the bridge and heads east. Many people have told me that when the river is down you can ride the sand all the way up to Eufaula dam. I think that is only during the winter months. Right now the water goes up and down everyday, and we have not found a place to cross yet. We can see other riding spots across the river. Other than the main sandbar, there are trails that head west. They are some pretty good high speed trails. Only been there once. No jumps found yet. Checked out the area below the dam last weekend. It was pretty cool also, but the sand by the river was a little rough from the river going up and down. Just up the bank there are some good play areas and the trails are fairly long and sandy. Once they start letting water out of the dam, the shoreline slowly disappears. Do you know of any other good areas to ride at? Later.

rail, thanks for the info. Not quite sure I want to make the trip now. Would it be worth the drive from Tulsa? If not, do you know of any places on the Canadian River? We have been to Whitefield (just east of Eufaula), and it was pretty cool. Good place to sand drag. The main sandbar is about 1/2 mile long, and at least 300 feet wide. You can haul ass!!! zep, it's a small lake just on the southeast side of OKC, and the riding area is on the north side. The info I got was that there is 85 miles of trails. Here is the link for the satellite image http://terraserver-usa.com/image.aspx?t=4&...y=1224&z=14&w=2 Thanks again

Just wondering if anyone has been to Draper in OKC? All the info on the net is generic, and was wondering where a good place to park is, or if anyone will be there also. Some friends and I are going Sunday. We will have 2 black and silver Banshees, 1 maybe 2 white Z400's , and 1 blue YFZ450 . Thanks.

Have you tried adjusting the chain adjustments on the rear of the swingarm? Another thing is to make sure the chain is on the TOP of the bottom chain roller (near the swingarm pivot point). I know from experience. I melted and destroyed a roller this last weekend because stupid me put the chain on the bottom of the roller. I was lucky that was all that was torn up.

I have one installed on my 94 and may have some answers to your questions 1) Should be a little easier to start at the least, as it delivers a hotter spark. I am now able to start on 1-3 kicks even in winter, and I don't even have to stand up to do it. 2) Someone may contradict me, but yes, it is the same as timing advance. There should be a curve graph sheet that came with the ignition 3) Performance gains were noticed right away. It was more responsive and crisp. Plus you get the adjustable timing curve selections for different types of riding. Are you running resistive spark plugs (BR8ES)? It is required for the Dyna. Hope this helps some.

I agree with hillcrazedbanshee. When my kill switch quit working, I took it apart and found the contact strip was out of the groove and dirt covered. Put it back in the groove and cleaned the contacts, and have not had a problem with it since. Or it could be the whole switch assembly (lights, and kill) is disconnected at the wire harness connector. Good luck.

Are you using some type of internet security program? If you are, disable it and try again. Otherwise you may have to go into each programs options to see what kind of connection is setup there. Even though you re-installed your spyware program, there may still be some registry settings left from the previous install that were not removed/overwritten.