94BansheeRider

Thanks for all your help and info boonman. You said "crotch" later

boonman, I noticed your star has more "roundness" to the points than other modified stars I have seen latley. By making them more round, does the bike tend to change gears accidently? I guess I mean, would it shift into a higher/lower gear when you lightly touch the gear shifter vs. one that has more of a peak? I want to do my star right, but I don't race a lot. But when I do I want to shift quick. Should be finished with mine tomorrow. Thanks for the info and pic.

Cool. Thanks for the info vmaxup

I am replacing my clutch plates and I figured while I'm in there I would do the shift star mod. Does anyone have pics of the neutral back cut before and after the mod? In the pics I have seen, there doesn't seem to be any difference in the neutral cut that I can tell. Thanks

NAX, Who are you asking? If you are asking me, then yes, I would take 50 for it. If you want to give me your email, I can send you a picture of it tomorrow.

race450, I will take some pics tonight or tomorrow and email them to you. If you are still interested... Later

I have the full set off my 94, including the headlight shrouds. Colors are blue/purple and yellow. Rear fender has a small crack around the mounting hole, and some scuffs from carrying a small cooler on it all summer (gotta have the beer). Orignial stickers. Will take $125.00 shipped. PM if interested.

What year blue? Is a 94 blue to purple for you? I have the orginal plastic from mine to get rid of.

I have a stock axle from my 94. It's straight, but the center part is gouged a little from trying to break my wheel hub loose, but not where the bearings ride, and a little rusty (carrier section) If you are interested, PM me with an offer including shipping.

I routed that hose so that it drains out on the ground at the swing arm pivot point. Other people relocate the resevoir to the front end of the bike. Your choice.

I have the Dyna on mine, and I love it. It has four preprogrammed curves for anything from stock to top end. It produces a hotter spark than a stock box. Top speed charts don't mean anything. It's just a guide, and will differ depending on who created it. The Dyna ignition is WAY better than a stock box. If you want to know your top speed, get someone with a radar gun or GPS system. Peace

You can also use a very fine steel wool. Will take off the rubber, and not scratch the chrome.

Before I changed to the new lock nut, I would use blue Locktite. It would hold up great with appropriate torque settings.

If you want to stop to ride in Oklahoma, go to Little Sahara in Waynoka. It's like a cat litter box compared to Glamis, but is worth the while. I went to Glamis for the first time over Christmas, and now I'm bored with all the areas around here. It's AWESOME Have lots of fun.

I had the same problem with mine. There was some slop in the splines on the axle to the brake hub. The sprocket hub was the same way. I have since installed a LSR axle and new hubs. Is not a problem anymore. I have checked some of my friends shees, and they don't have this problem at all. I don't think you will break anything, but if the sprocket hub is doing this also, you may start going through chain and sprockets often. Before I replaced the axle and hubs, I was going through sprockets and chains about every other month! Don't know if this helps, but it's information Peace

Here is a link for the lid http://www.jmcracing.com.au/site/details.c...roductIDNum=321

I contacted my Allstate rep (who also handles my 3 cars), he told me that they do not insure Banshees. I went to Giecko online, they said no. I went with progressive and got a policy for $279/year. This includes $5,000 coverage in bike parts and mods. You can get it cheaper through them, but I wanted all the extras covered as well.

Just as a note: The lid that is on my airbox is one of those K&N Xstream filters. It takes the place of the stock lid. It's like one big flat K&N filter that uses the airbox clamps to hold it on. Then the primary filter is still inside the airbox. I have no precharger on either one. It doesn't seem like the filter lid would be anymore restrictive than putting an outerwear on the primary filter and running no lid. Does this sound right ?

I actually posted them in the ENGINE section of the forum. But it came in at 61.1 RWHP. They had to go down to a 142 main jet because of the K&N filter lid that is on the bike (along with the primary, no outerwears). I was hoping for mid to upper 60's, but was glad to break the 60 mark

Justintoxicated: Thanks for the info. I will leave it as is for Glamis, and rejet when I get home with no lid. Is that Ray Liotta in your avatar?

Leadfoot, A local guy from one of the bike shops did my porting, he works hand in hand with the shop that does the dyno. It was tuned for the K&N filter lid installed, so I had to go from 148 mains to 142. Do you mean individual filters for each carb? No airbox? Peace

I think the consenus (sp) on here is around 180 psi

I believe they took the place of the EVX series, which were platinum tips. The Iridium is supposed to be better. But they cost $$$.

jethro Thanks for the input.

It was several passes. Three I think. I usually run 110 octane, straight. Yes I know it's expensive, but I love the smell . Elevation is 700ft above. It is just a mild port job. I was going to get more porting when I installed the new carbs, but time does not permit. The bike was tuned for our upcoming trip to Yuma/Glamis. Wound up having to lean out the carbs. I now have 142 mains in. I recently put on one of those K&N filter lids for my airbox with no outwear on the lid. The friend that did my porting said not to run the outerwear. Too restrictive. When I got it dyno'd, they guy told me that the LID was restrictive and I should run just and outerwear on the PRIMARY filter. What do you all think? He told me this HP was about average for a 350 with this setup, without stepping up stroke and bore. I said "stroke" Banshee's RULE