94BansheeRider

1066.6 Kick ass game...

Most of the time we finish them when we install them on site, but I could show you around anyway. Even without the visual and motion system it's pretty cool. I have flown enough different types of sims to be confident that if the pilot and copilot died on a flight I was on, I could land the sucker. Cotton eyed Joe, The sims for the F-16 are awesome too. You can do anything from dogfights to blasting the little pissants on the ground.

Back on subject ... Flight Simulator Technician. Build $15 million simulators to train corporate, airline, and military pilots. Specializing in hydraulic servo control (flight controls and motion system). 15 years. Peace.

Caffrey's Irish Ale or Murphy's Irish Amber. GOOD SHIT! Boddington's if I can't find the others.

I had mine done a few months ago. Seems to rev up quicker (less mass to spin).

Oh yea, curve 3 for top end

Are you running with a tether kill switch? You have to be careful when hooking up that type of kill switch on a Dyna. Just a thought...

I had a similar prob with my 94 Shee. It progressively got worse. Finally one day after about an hour of riding, I took a 15 min break, and the bike would not start at all. Not even a tow would start it. Turned out the ignition module was on its last leg. Installed a Dyna ignition and have never had that prob again. You might try swapping modules with a known good one and see what happens. Just a thought...

I don't think the stock stator can handle it. The stock lights are only 35 watts each. Someone else may have the exact rating of the stock stator though.

I just retapped the holes once I got the frame back

More shiny stuff

A while back I had thought of putting shrouds on either side of the fuel tank to funnel air into the air box. The thought was: The faster you go, the more air pressure inside the air box. Has anyone tried this before? I think it would be cool if it works

On the top inside of the seal housing is a hex drive keeper threaded into to the housing. I forget what size it is, but you can use a bolt with a head the same size with some jam nuts to remove this, and then you will have to pop out the seal on the bottom. If you are real careful, it will come out without damage, but be prepared to get a new one. I chromed my arms instead of PC them because on the bottom of the ball joint is a nylon bushing that will melt in the PC oven. But if you want to try then you will have to remove the rubber boot and clean all the grease out. Then I put some brass spacers on top of the ball joint with the castle nut on top to keep anything out of the joint. When I put mine back together I used safety wire around the boots instead of the pain-in-the-ass clip that was originally on there. Hope this helps...

I stripped one of mine also. Bought a new one from the dealer. Beat the old one out and installed the new one. Make sure the splines are aligned when you put the new one in though.

If you are talking about the C-clips that have no place to grab them, I used a very small drill bit and drilled a small hole just underneath so I could get a dental tool under it to pry it out.

I just installed a PD inpeller and tested it last weekend. Had no problems, and I ran her HARD. I did not notice any difference in power.

A friend of mine had a similar problem after endo-ing his bike. Turned out to be a bent spindle. I think he picked up a pair off of Ebay for under $40.

I would have to agree with dnhyoung. I had the same problem with my steering stop. It would jack-knife on me at the most inappropriate times, sending me over the bars. I used a really big hammer and steel tube to bend the stop back and rewelded.

Are the washers still on the plugs? They should be for proper seal and seat. Might try some new plugs. I have not had this problem on mine.

What was done to your bike prior to your problem? Almost sounds like the shift drum is intalled incorrectly or a cracked gear. Just a thought

I filled the grommet hole with black rtv (or other matching color)

Hey oldasdirtrider, Doesn't my avatar turn you on??

I have just installed one last night. I will be testing tonight and this weekend. I'll let you know how well it works

Unsplice your wires, and should be fine. When I removed my TORS, I just taped up the connectors into the wire harness so no moisture could get inside them.

What keeps the oil from filling the sound damper cover area?