camatv

you sand cast pipes? that sounds bad ass. i want to see those.! might be getting a honda soon to do at some point....

i have set stuff up like that many times. if you have the right needle it goes pretty quick.

fuck atf. if your "budget minded" castrol 4t motorcycle oil walmart brand outboard tcw3 certified 32-1 in the oil ONLY dot 3 brake fluid from a fresh container ( it absorbs water) distilled water and /or 50/50 green antifreeze. great combo right there. total would be about 35.00 and thats with a gallon of mix oil.

i'm convinced stock track chassis can go super fast. enough motor, right rider, and shave enough weight off of it set it up nice why shouldnt it? good job! love to see some pics of the bike.

cause they suck. i rember racing one back in the late 90's after riding a bone stock 2007 suzuki 450 i wish i could have had that instead..

what the hell is up with that dome.. it almost looks like the edges are exposed and that would cause hot spots... NOSS domes NEVER look like that. dave would never ever ever send any crap out like that. you can call dave and send spec's pictures etc to him and he will cut whatever you want. i have had some custom stuff done with him in the past and i would never use anyone else to make domes for me ( except the ones i do here as experiments.) and they look beautiful compared to that crap up there) if that is passion's work thats some bulllllshit i think i would be demanding some payback from the re work you had to do. the lower pic is what i would call a basic custom dome thats really popular basic shape right meow. a 9-8mm wide band. .050+ and kicking around 150psi should work fine. ( pump gas) you can fine tune the timing to work with that setup also. and make sure your jetting is very close. overly rich is just going to cause problems with the motor. i personally would never run ore that .048 squish on a cub. and only that much if your on alky and have a good tune in it. ( i like motors that stay together more than 2 trips out) there are standard "spec's for 2 strokes in general for squish clearance, band width and basic shape. i have seen a lot of really out there shapes and even myself have made a few what i would cal multiple squish band domes that work great with lesser octane fuels and alky too you can create engine pressure with timing or dome shape the best is whatever works for the fuel you have, the strength of the combustion chamber, how much fuel air you can jam in there. porting, fuel, cylinder design, etc etc all play a huge factor...

steel on steel. yea it will need" rebuilt" again at some point.. heck rember your OEM kicker is at this point no matter what at least 6+ years old

match the pv's for sure. BUT you will loose bottom end with the lesser pv length.. you can make the pv flow better and still have the bottom you want and have now, it all really depends on how the exhaust was ported. certain shapes in the port work excellent but the have to work with the valve. most times only an as cast cylinder can be done the right way ( or at least the way i do them) most people WAYY overport to make the cylinders work and that leads to the pv's not working as optimal as they can. if you can measure your down pv port duration you should be able to get a before and after number and then can probably make an edjucated change from there. i have numbers that i use the pv hanging in the port when all the way open has lower'd your exhaust port duration. thats the loss in overrev your feeling.

i prefer oem also. oem gear and impeller etc.. never had any issues with them. i have a few low hour billet PD ones if anyone is looking..

set them rich ( in all the way) set your measured length the same from there. start bike. tune from there.

yikes/

need a different needle. in all reality. if you can get nice midle range BUT the idle loads up or is a tad rich these in essence could solve that problem on another note. i have seen SOOOOOOOOOOO many issues with motors, electrics, installation problems< contributed to bad jetting.

neato. to bad that setup pipe and intake wise sucks. looks clean tho!

looks like rough port on a set of athena's...... no they wouldn't have left my place looking like that. UNLESS whoever order'd them was a total cheap ass and only paid 50 bucks for the work? just sayin. but even then i dont think i would have done that at all.

same video with completely stock motor and t-5's probably sounds the same.

only other carbs i know of that are made in china are OKO's and they SUCK ASS also. rest are japanese or americun

get toomey needles.

real pwk 30's i think i ended up at 45-55 on the pilot and a 158-162 on the main. screwed with one all day and that was the best i can rember. it never did run very well. way to much exhaust timing i didnt build the motor so could have had other issues

it looks like a wompus kinda type "atena banshee" in ebay and look at the pics.

hell my nuts are huge whatchu talk"n bout.

i'll race ya no mill's with wheelman on it! even it up a tad. i'd sure feel bad smokin me some more MI ass on a lil no mill n heavyweight jocky. to pull 300lbs takes real powa! HA

POW

ok now wait a second. motovox? that company sells ( distributes) what looks like cheap ass chinese made pit bikes scooters and those crappy electric stuff. but they say its "innovative" WTF? maybe the sales of those "innovative" shit bikes are what funded the smart carb.?? with million dolla sales figured they could get a product out pretty quick. maybe it takes so long because they are MAYBE being built in china>>?? ( OH CRAP!_) http://www.motovox.com/who-we-are.php#

be there some time early in the week. might just have to get off my ass and bring a lil 350cc of furry my self. its a no mill beeeeach!

that is one BIG dopey looking kicker. 350x.. see if you can find that