camatv

chariot is great to deal with. i'd take a set of lectron billet bowls even if they had a milling cutter explode and scratch the whole side up.!

fuck it just ride out and race.. hell saturday i wont even be there.. the way its going i'll be lucky to even have a stocker 350 to ride around on

dang its back!!

if you torch off powder off alluminum its very easy to get it to hot and melt the alluminum. torch works great on steel parts like a-arms, frames swingarms etc.. at paint stores you can get gallon sizes or more of paint thinner or paint stripper. drop them in the bucket and let them sit it will take it all off.. OR if you have a powedercoated local you can ask them if they have a strip tank and see if they will strip it for you. or you can bead blast it all back off might take a long time.

its just nutty..

dang!

if i decide not to take the rv might just swing into that spot with ya tanner?

oh come on meow!! anyone can show up. just be ready to have a good time and not whine and complain..

found out today i have to work saturday. so i wont be there

your bunking with koolaide!! hahahah that will be good. last year i almost passed out next to the fire over there. nto gonna say what else happened.... welp just found out today that i got the whole week off BUT i have to be to work saturday at noon. so i'll be leaving to go home around 8am saturday morning.... kinda sucks. still not even sure what day i will make it there.

so the trx is no more? what the hell. dude throw a SMALL rider motor in it and have fun with it..

here are my thoughts, its the gear on the clutch bouncing back and forth or one of the bushings ( instead of bearings like everything else) shaking in a harmonic way ( hard to explain) think of a bearing that spins nice and free then if it's loose it rattle just a tad kinda goes bububbububububu like that noise. the low idle is causing it mostly. no real pressure on the crank to clutch gear so they kinda shake back and forth. also can be caused by the clutch pack bouncing around in the basket. its hard to get rid of except to just raise the idle enough to put more of a constant load on the internals. i hear it a lot. you can go through the motor and actually "spec" every part in there. if anything is even a little off its going to maybe make this noise. the idler gear is an atrocious loose fit even with a steel bushing installed. i really think its just that hoping around on the back of the basket it spins all the time when the motor is running. i dont think i have heard this on straight cut gear'd motor's> just some thoughts.

those 60's are freakin fast as fuck no matter what.

if someone needs a good rebuild and has a decent core you can PM me. i'm not sure what parts are in there but the cranks have to be pretty cheap to make it worth the cost.

heck yea its a big boy sxs! hell i just need to get it to run now! its even out of commission. got a blown axle and the stinking carbs have pissed me off so much i'm going to try and put on a weber carb ( am i crazy?) might end up putting around on the dang wife's bike the whole trip.

heck yea i can haul some stuff out. or you need me to bring an entire drum? yeap 350cc stocker all out drag is out for me. just going to leave it in the wife's bike for a play duner

junk. get pwk's with chrome slides

fastest bike last year WAS a raptor.... i'm all out of alky too fill that drum and sell me some! hell the way its going i'm only taking the wife's turd and the teryx.. damnit someone go get these tires for me!

anyone coming that lives close to this town?? South Amboy, New Jersey i need some tires picked up possibly? i will pay a "shipping charge"

that frame looks nice. try about 12* rake in your nose. up to 17* google suspension rake. there is a few video's about the way the shocks bounce over stuff that explains it very well. a lot better than i can explain here. also one of the reasons most yamaha frames feel like shit in the front end.

is your motor a stock cylinder? if it has a spacer plate, or cut up domes its a 4 mill ( unless its a 110 rod). if its a CUB most cubs and cp cylinders have the stroke. bore they were cast for in the intake area. that can be a indication also the easy way to measure stroke is to drop the cyl back on use a pencil or something that wil fit in the plug hole. mark all the way down. the rotate it all the way up. mark there. measure length in mm and blamo there ya go

the castrol 4T i run usually lasts 4 dune trips. most times i change it just cause. i mean its 12 bucks? i dumped atf at the dunes on a saturday night because it had completely broken down.

t-6's with the RIGHT porting are bad ass rider pipes. BUT they will never rev much at all. and it takes a VERY specific porting to make them work most average "dune ports" or "drag ports" will make them worse. basically the power the t-6 makes is very low in the rpm range. most porting is for the upper rpm range. so the port job starts to make power where the pipe is done and wont support anymore rpm.. big mis match. t-5's with any decent porting work well. BUT they are no "drag pipe". both sounds great and fit really well i personally love the way the t-6 looks.

wish i lived closer!

when i "tried" the atf route. on the dunes the shit would turn black in one day, the clutch would heat up and grab off the line, i was always adjusting the clutch freeplay also. went to 4.99 a quart 4t NONE of those issues have come back. and the bike shifts better. i barely have to adjust the free play when i'm dragging. and the clutch heat is much less. it dosn't matter where you live its just what i run now from experience. if you want to run atf so be it. i wont. that up there is why. no argument from me klotz flexdrive and klotx super tech IS a bad ass combo. i ran 927 in my pv cheeta and after a few weekends i had to start pulling my pv's out because they would stick i switched to klotz havnet had to touch them at all. it is deff a lot cleaner burning oil