ruff_rida69

mine did that with bad a-arm ball joints and bad wheel bearings when i got the shee, so you might need to check all your ball joints and make sure there tight, all your wheel bearings, and all your bushings, thats the only things I know, and if its your ball joints you have to replace them with all new a-arms, I just replaced all mine today.

thats why i have a yamaha

I dunno but for some reason these a-arms were really easy to get back in then my old ones, it only took like 5 mins. to do all 4, thanks for the help anyway, Thanks, Jonathan

ok, I was wondering if there was any easyer way to get the ball joints into the spindles without hammering the hell out of it? I just painted my a-arms and I don't wanna mess them up with a hammer. Thanks in advance, Jonathan

banshee cranks are known to seperate, because there only welded on the outside i think, when you get a crank welded means its been welded inside and out, anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

you probley just need new rings.

an aftermarket head, thats what im lookin into when i get the money, check this site out, he has the coolest heads around I think, www.nossmachine.com.

hey bansheewizard, you never said you has a twist throttle you would trade, send me a pic, and i might trade you, I'v been wanting a twist.

I wish I would of knew that when I put my motor back in.lol!

if I was you i would just go buy some chrome spray paint, and just sand the bumper down really good, and just put about 5 or 6 thin coats on it, just don't put any clear coats on it because the chrome color will be dull, i painted my bumber black and it hasn't come off yet.

I did the same as nyuk, 2 days ago and put some grade 8 bolts in it, after i got the grinder out to get it off, it had the nurf bars welded to the frame!

if you go under 20cc's i think your suppost to run a 50/50 mix of 93 octane and race gas but i wouldn't go any lower then 20cc whithout your crank welded, just my .02

dude, i had over 7 grand in my warrior and i couldn't even touch a stock banshee, so you should'nt have aproblem beating his ass, by the way i ended up giving my warrior away!

thats pretty damn funny, who thinks of all this shit?

sure, those are good all around carbs, just don't for get to rejet when you have more mods on the motor or the weather, and they should be fine.

I would probley go with some 30mm or some 33mm flatsides

I haven't tryed them personaly but i heard that rocket inframes are suppost to be better then CPI's because they have a little more bottom end, Bignasty1 is sellin a set on rocket inframes.

yea they should when i first got my shee it had no front or back brakes, and the front wheels turned fine, but now its got brakes think god!

if your gonna be riding in mud and water i would keep the air box and just put a clamp-on adapter on it and put a K&N clamp on filter you can get one at www.nossmachine.com or other places.

I would say all over, but i could be wrong maybe someone on the HQ knows for sure.

I run one that i got at a dealership and i don't think it restrict the flow much, and i run one just incase my petcock filter breaks that way if i do get any thing in my tank at least i don't have to worry about it gettin it the carb or in the cylinder.

it's cool, but heres the site i did my with it has instucions 'sorry can't spell" and really good pictures of how to do it http://www.roostfest.com/cages.htm

a banshee would be better if its gonna be hill climbing, wide open spaces and dunning. but i would say for woods, track, and a few other things you would be better off going with a 400ex or a 250r, i have a banshee and I'm setting it up for hare scrambling right now and it does take quit a bit outta you wallet, but i would say if you can't find a banshee set-up up for woods and stuff already go for the 400ex or 250r. just my .02

I got one I'll sell in good cond. Give me a price.

I would just use a dremel like i did, its alot easy'er then it sounds, i did mine in probley 45 mins. and it'll save you some money