ruff_rida69

I just ordered A new stock watt stator form RS and it was like $168.60 because for over night shipping was 48 bucks, so hopefully I'll be riding tomorrow!

there a $100 dollors each and you need 2 for a banshee and for that price you could buy a set of v-forces.

never mind don't do it because I have 3 bleeding fingers right now from just trying to get the wire off the stator "that epoxy is like a razor blade!" and I know I can't get the rest of it off so ohh well I'll just try to get another one

well I just found the wire for it, they have it at radio shack heres it is http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?cata...t%5Fid=278-1345 and it's only 5 bucks for all 3 spools, and I heard I can just put hi temp epoxy on it to hold it on the post, I might try it, it might work and it miht not but I think its worth a shot. and does anyone know if those are the right size wire for it? Thanks, Jonathan

I just figured I would try to get a stator on here before I order a new one from ricky stator tomorrow, I need it super fast like by friday I can do COD or I can send a money order, if anyone's got one laying around please reply if not I'll take my chance's with RS in the morning. Thanks, Jonathan

I looked at east coast atv and they want $200 for a used or rewound stator and I'm not gonna pay that for a used one when I can get a new one from RS for $125 and it comes on an adjustable timing plate too so I guess I'll just have to call tomorrow and see what RS can do. and hopfully they can work somethin' out. Thanks, Jonathan

I heard on here that you can rewind a stator yourself I was wanting to know if any1 can tell me how to rewind my stator? I'm gonning to be ordering a new one from ricky stator tomorrow but I don't think they'll take COD on an overnight package, I'm planning on goning riding this weekend, what stuff do I need to buy to do it? and how hard is it? Thanks, Jonathan

you should be able too, just loosein the top and bottom case bolts and pry your case up a tiny bit and pull the old seal out and put a new one in, I don'y know about the shift shaft seal though.

well I just replaced my cdi and wiring harness and I still have no spark, I know my coil's good because I had the dealer test it so it's gotta be my stator right? what could make a stator go bad? when my friend had to get it off he had to beat the living hell outta my flywheel because it rusted to the shaft and stripped 2 flywheel pullers, but the magnets in the flywheel are still strong. so could that of damaged my stator some how? and I still don't think any one knows why my stator has 18 post on it. Thanks, Jonathan

it could be your coil but I would check you spark plug caps first and see if you have a bad one, and switch the plug wires and see if the problem go's to the other cylinder

I did the same thing replacing my axle bearings, I'll I did was just like cotten eyed joe said, grind down the end enough so that you can get the nut on, I have'nt had any problems with it yet.

you don't need to bore unless you have scratch's on you cylinder or if it has alotta wear on it, and you don't have to have a hone but it's a good ideal if you want a good ring seal, and take your cylinders to a dealer and get them to check the bore and they can tell you what size pistons you need and if you need to bore it over.

I've got front and back blaster shocks on mine " beats having 3 busted banshee shocks" and it did lower it but I have'nt had a chance to see how they ride yet

I had the exact same problem after I rebuilt my motor it ran be4 but after no spark, and I fould out my cdi was went bad, you might wanna check all your switch's stator, coil, and your wiring harness first though, but you probley just left something unhooked hopefully, just check all that stuff with a pocket tester and get back with us and tell us what you fould I would really like to know.

you should'nt have to get new pistons with just a honing unless the bore has alotta wear on it, as for domes I would talk to dlnoss im sure he could hook you up.

thats a relief, I just did'nt know if they had to have them or not, my dealer said not to worry about it but I wanted to make sure, and thats a nice crank man I hope I can get a stroker in the future.

I did the same thing a couple months back with the red anodized paint and looks awsome and is pretty durable too.

I was just wondering if you have to have the knock pins in the crank shaft bearings, when I went and got my new left and right bearings they didn't have knock pins in them, and I lost one of the knock pins on one of the middle bearings, it's all put back together now and I'm just wondering if I'm gonna have any problems

2into1 carb, 2into1 pipe or other low-end pipes, gearing changes, porting, reeds, bump up the compression, all those and alot more are things you can do to get more low-end it just depends on how much low-end you want and how much your willing to spend.

I think you could have a air leak since it revs hight at idle, crank it and spray some wd-40 or somethin around the reed cages and see if it revs higher, or you could have a bad crank seal but you would have to do a leak down test to see.

heres a website with some very good info on how to port them, it helped me alot http://www.roostfest.com/cages.htm

someone on here took that bar outta the stock reed cages awhile back I can't remeber who did it, you might could do a search and see, or it might have been on the old forums, if you can find out who that was they can probley tell you how they performed

you shouldn't have any problems with overheating at .80 over just when you need to take your cylinders to .90 next time, my old cylinders where bored .80 and I never had any problems as long as I stayed on top of my jetting, but when it came time to bore it to .90 I just bought some new cylinders to save my motor down the road. and I think one of the best way to make sure it does'nt over heat is to install a temp. gauge or make one your self.

you shouldn't have any over heating problems unless you go over .80 as long as you stay on top your your jetting.

I've got that same problem right now, my CDI started going out and I rebuilt the whole motor and now it does'nt work period, and I've tested everything and its gotta be the cdi, I would just take a pocket tester and check the coil, stator, and the wiring harness the best you could, and see if you find any problems, it could be he just does'nt know what the heck hes doing, I would check the carbs, slides, spark plugs, gas, and maybe the kill switch and see if you can find anything, it might seem like alot but I would do it before I forked over $1500 for something I have no clue why it's not running, I'm sure some others on here can give you some more suggestions.