ruff_rida69

I've heard that Electrex CDI's are suppost to be pretty good and a hell alot cheaper then a new stock one, here's there website check it out http://www.electrexusa.com

I agree with holyman, but i use only 10w30 synthetic oil, I like the syntec oil myself with some lucas oil added, but I'm sure others will have there own oils they like too. just my $.02

trust me keeping secrets from your friends is'nt easy, my friends know what i got before i even get it!

my shocks do that too if i don't ride it in a couple days, all i do is spray the shaft with some wd-40 and put some grease on the shafts and they work like new again.

on my warrior i used to have, I had white back plastic and i used bleach, I just took some bleach in a cup with a tooth brush so I didn't get it on the graphics and scubed it down and let it set, I did that about one or two times and then washed it down, and it looked brand new, and you can try wet sanding it with some 300 to 600 grit sand paper to get the scatches out, hope this helps, Jonathan

this site shows you how to to mod your stock clutch perch, I have'nt tryed it yet because i have an aftermarket one but its seems to be pretty handy info to have around. http://www.roostingthedunes.com/tech_tips.htm

It's not as hard as it sounds you can do it yourself if you gotta dremel.I did heres the link that helped me http://www.roostfest.com/cages.htm

I've got the same problem right now, I've took the key off the handle bars and put it in the right race cut part on my fender, and cut the middle bar outta my handle bars to make it look like 03' bars, I have did everything and now I just go out there and sit and look at it and freeze my ass off, and wait on my motor to get back from one one my buddy's, I just can't wait I have'nt rode the shee but one in 3 or 4 months, I think I'm startin' to get depressed!

ok I gotta feeler gauge from an auto parts store and I checked my rod clearance, on my left rod the feeler gauge says 25 and its a perfect fit, and on my right its just a tiny bit bigger, I can just move it a tad. is this right I don't wanna put it all back together and then have crank problems.ohh and its a hot rod crank, Thanks Jonathan

my shee did the same thing about a week ago, but it just had dents all in the piston and the dome, it looked a little worse then yours, plus i had 2 deep scratch's in my left piston, I have no clue what cause mine I have checked everything and can't find anything wrong, so I'm just open'in the bottom end and cleaning it out and replacing the crank bearings and getting new clylinders, pistons, and a new stock head, and im gonna pray to god it doesn't happen again.

the head and cylinders torq to 28NM and heres a drawing of a head that I numbered for you.

the same thing happen on my yz250 I was in the middle of a XC race, well it crunk and run fine but then about 30mins and 7 miles in the woods it died, I thought I fouled a plug but when I finally got it out and got it home i found out That water got into the kill switch and messed somethin up, so i would try messin with the kill switch, and maybe un pluging it and just plug the wires together with no kill switch and see if it runs, Hope this helps, Jonathan

I did about the same thing on my yz250, i was gonnin about 45mph on a wheely with 2 people on it on pavement and stud it up "HURT LIKE HELL!", but it bent my subframe and i bent it back and it broke, so i took in to a buddy of mine and he put a solid steel bar inside and rewelded it back together, but i think it will always be twisted a little mine was.

I have a C.V. 33mm system, but I've only got to ride on it one day , and I had ton's of bottom end, as far as the 33mm and the 35mm i think 33mm is better with mild bolt on's, and the 35mm is better with a ported motor, and as far as jetting if you want easy jetting get a clamp on filter with it instead of the air box adapter be cause its really more of a pain with the airbox adapter then with the stock carbs, just my $.02

if you get on at the dealership there $20 bucks or you can order a cometic full top end gasket kit for around $21 bucks, I've always run cometic and never had any problems with them.

if you didn't have a head gasket you would of had some serious probems, its probley just stuck to the head or the cylinders, and yes always use a new gasket when you take your head off or your just askin for problems.

bump, cylinders sold

I've got both the C.V kit and a motofast 2into1 pipe, I got to ride it one day and you wouldn't believe the bottom end i had, I think since your gonna be racing MX go for it, and you'll have all the bottom end you want and still have a stock top end.

well he changed the auction info after he e-mailed me this about the cylinders, The Banshee stator and flywheel are identical to those of the RZ He's not too smart if you ask me, but I'll probey buy it any way because I've been wanting to do an rz conversion for a long time, Thanks for all the help, Jonathan

yea boonman thats the set-up im lookin at, if i can get the money in a week, but I think its just bored .30 over like you said, so hopfully i can come up with the money in a couple days and I'll have a rz-shee! Thanks everyone for all your repleys. Thanks, Jonathan

hes says that the bore size of the cylinders are 75.00mm, which i e-mailed him about it just to make sure he didn't make a typing mistake, but he hasn't repleyed yet, I think he ment to type 65.00mm instead of 75.00mm. Thanks, Jonathan

I thought stock bore was 64.00mm? thats what all the websites about rz350's I'v found say, do you know where i could find pistons that big? all the sites iv found go from 64.00mm to 66.50mm on rz's

I gotta set of black nurf bars with blue webbing, and a set of rear stock warrior tires. Let me know

hey, anyone know the stock bore size for a rz350? or do they know what .75mm bore size is? i found some and they say that there .75mm and i was wondering how much they've been bored, Thanks, Jonathan

hey, im gonna be sellin a bunch of banshee parts, so i can put together an rz350 top end swap, I might be selling alot more of my banshee motor parts if i can come up with all the money for all the rz componets. 1.banshee cylinders, bored .80 probley need to be taken to .90, they are in good cond. $make me an offer 2.stock carbs with brand new throttle cable, jetted with 310 mains and one has and 30 pilot the other has an 25 pilot, 1 or both need a new carb tops"there striped" but i had them zip-tied down and worked fine. $50 3.stock thumb throttle with polished cover. $25 4.one lower left a-arm with a tight ball joint "needs bushings" $15 5.black painted neft bars with blue webbing. $60 6.complete set of boyesen reeds in good cond. $20 7.stock intake boots and airbox boots with airbox flange. $30 8. brand new never used UM boost bottle. $23 9.Stock head with pitting on one dome. $10 10.parking brake cable. $3 11.rear shock spring "red" $5 ****+shipping on all**** and like i said i may have alot more comming to this list, and i may be willing to trade some of this stuff for rz parts, let me know , Thanks Jonathan