fast87

the motor is in pieces now, and the crank is out, from what i can tell the end pins that are pressed in are exactly the same amount out from the crank on both sides, which should mean that the crank is not self-destructing(i hope) ....there isn't many good motorcycle shops locally but i'll see if they can true and weld it, Thanks ~Mark~

if holyman doesn't want the gas cap i call second dibbs on it, also how much for the handlebar clamp? with bolts? and the billet grille? ~Mark~

i can almost guarantee you blew out your differentials(diffs), the savage stock has only 2 gears in there, but there's a mod for it to have 4 gears, find HPI's wensite and look there i believe they offer a kit for this, if not check ebay or your local hobby shop..and when you put it back together make sure the 4 screws holding the diff together are tight as hell, they loosen and allow too much slop, resulting in your diff stripping out...they're hard to get to but worth the effort in the end, and using 4 gears you won't strip out the diffs again(as long as the screws are very tight) ~Mark~

yeah that's true, but i'll chuck it up on a lathe tuesday and see how fast i can get it going, then slowly get the cutting bit up to the side of it and see if it "scrapes" in different spots, like if i's a constant scraping sound of just does it in one spot, that should tell me just how out of whack it is.. ~Mark~

damn..i'll double check it so i have peace of mind...i did order the correct puller that day, and for 9 bucks it was a good deal, too bad my dad had to do it his way... ~Mark~

same here, i've had stupid kids tell me my bike is junk and my pipes suck because they rattle...so i throw roost and rocks at em but seriousely they are loose naturally, they only mount in 2 places(well 3 if you count the cylinder) so they're bound to move, it's normal..and if i'm in neutral and rev it up then let off the throttle, it revvs down and at a certain RPM the pipes rattle on the frame...no big deadl i'm used to it ~Mark~

check out the thread, i meant to post it here only, btut somehow it went to the product review forum...mods feel free to move it, Thanks and check it out and LMk what you think: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=45820 ~Mark~

oh yeah i just had another idea...in auto shop we have 2 brake lathes, one for both disk and drums, one strictly for drums, we also have an all-purpose lathe..could i chuck it up in our lathe and take off about 1/8in from the outside next to the square "magnets"?? i can also remove material from the inside of the flywheel also or instead of the outside..Thanks ~Mark~

Well my only local bike shop didn't have any more in stock, and they said from 4-7 days to get the correct banshee flywheel puller in...so i busted out our set of jaw type pullers and went to town, i did however remove the nut with an impact with no problems, and in the process of using the damn jaw puller i bent it...i think...my entire engine is apart right now, including crank, stator, etc... so i'll have to wait a couple days before it's back in 1 piece so i can spin it to see if it wobbles at all, i do have auto shop in school and was wondering if i can use our spinning(vertical) tire balancer to check the flywheel?? i'll try it on tuesday and let you all know the results, Thanks for any input and do you think if i measured and marked 4-6 evenly spaced holes and drilled them with a bench press it would be OK?? i don't have the money for a lightened flywheel right now(just spent 400+ on an unexpected rebuild) and trust my metalworking skills..to a degree ~Mark~

it won't wear out your one way bearing if you don't hydro lock the engine, in that case you should stop turning it over, remove glow plug, turn truck upside down and hit the EZ start, then re-inatall glowplug and prime it just so the fuel hits the fuel inlet nipple on the carb.. it won't hurt your one way if done right and not fllooding it ~Mark~

if you bloe compressed air through the rear line there should be no bubbling, because it sits above the oil...i suggest removing that line as well as the rest and making sure it's clear or clogs. Also make sure they are not kicked between the frams and front of the swingarm, sometimes people shove them through that tiny space closing the line..good luck and i don't think it could be bad crank seals, at least it's not logical to me... ~Mark~

Check it out: My Webpage(i'm not selling these, i just found em while checking out banshee stuff today ) ~Mark~

ahh too bad ~Mark~

nobody?? ~Mark~

still got it sitting here..everything included..looking for a set of cylinders around or under 300 bucks, Thanks and klotz let me know if you come up with 65 more bucks or have something to trade, Thanks ~Mark~

YGPM bansheestang, Thanks ~Mark~

the MGT might be worth watching..but the hot bodies does not include an engine, exhaust, flywheel, clutch setup w/clutch bell, radio/receiver, or 3 servos..you must supply all that yourself and go through the trouble of making it work with different brands of servos, engine accessories, etc..(especially since you're new to R/C and don't have any misc. parts already), you're better off buying a RTR that has everything , be sure to join the OFNA forums, we'll help you with any RC questions, and any brands ~Mark~

Maybe i can help...i work at a hobby shop, have owned too many R/C's and know almost everything about each one, i own a savage now and have 2 gallon bags full of spare parts, and i need every one of em..for serious hardcore bashing you need lots of spares for a savage, but not as many as a t-maxx when thrashed equally, but both are great trucks..do you have a hobby shop nearby?? if you do then go there and see what they carry parts for or will in the near future, because that's what you want to get..if you are looking into racing and bashing both thencheck out the OFNA blazer SST, it is essentially an 1/8th scale buggy, with lower gearing, 2 sets of tires(one bigger than regular buggy tires but smaller and skinnier than maxx tires), and regular t-maxxsized tires/wheels, i don't think you can go wrong with this truck..comes fully RTR with everything but the obvious stuff..it is also based on the OFNA 9.5 violator platform, so if they stock 9.5 voilator parts 99% of them fit the blazer SST (called a truggy nowadays), anyway check out the OFNA forumsMy Webpagefor more info and ask some questions, i'm hyper7pbs on there, Later and good luck ~Mark~

i could use the jugs, pistons, head, and maybe crank/bearings ~Mark~

TTT ~Mark~

NEED to get a deal going soon...my pistons are brand spankin new, (i can get pics) and barely handled...i'd like to trade pistons for pistons with anyone, i will make any kind of deal work...like i can include extra money if you have better pistons, etc...i would also rather trade with a deal so if anyone out there has a few sets in stock..i'd make it worth your while to trade..i'm looking for ANY new pistons that are at least .030 over, Thanks and they don't have to be wiseco prolites but that would be nice ~Mark~

THESE ARE .020" OVER, NOT .030", SORRY FOR THE MIXUP.......I have a brand new in box wiseco PROLITE top end rebuild it for sale/trade, will sell for 165.00 shipped(15.00 less than what i paid 2 months ago) or trade for a set of .040 or .050" over piston kit..or will just trade pistons to make it simple..it includes ALL gaskets, upper rod(needle) bearings, wrist pins, etc... Reason for selling is i bought the kit for a presumed quick rebuild, but upon teardown i cracked an upper ring and it bounced around, scoring the cylinder and wrecking my head...so i need to bore it out at least .010 over but i bought the same size pistons...stupid me i guess...anyway i'm open to offers, but i'm already losing out on this deal..i also need a cool head or noss head with 20-21cc domes(so i can run pump gas), maybe we can work out some kinda trade....Thanks and i can get pics upon request, everything is in 100% brand new shape e-mail is [email protected] ~Mark~ EDIT: THESE ARE .020" OVER, NOT .030", SORRY FOR THE TYPO

I have a brand new in box wiseco PROLITE top end rebuild it for sale/trade, will sell for 165.00 shipped(15.00 less than what i paid 2 months ago) or trade for a set of .040 or .050" over piston kit..or will just trade pistons to make it simple..it includes ALL gaskets, upper rod(needle) bearings, wrist pins, etc... Reason for selling is i bought the kit for a presumed quick rebuild, but upon teardown i cracked an upper ring and it bounced around, scoring the cylinder and wrecking my head...so i need to bore it out at least .010 over but i bought the same size pistons...stupid me i guess...anyway i'm open to offers, but i'm already losing out on this deal..i also need a cool head or noss head with 20-21cc domes(so i can run pump gas), maybe we can work out some kinda trade....Thanks and i can get pics upon request, everything is in 100% brand new shape e-mail is [email protected]... ~Mark~

check the lower clutch arm, it may have slipped out of it's "spot", it's under the catrbs on the top of the case. Also check your clutch perch to see if it is adjustable, on mine there is 3 different positions, eady, medium, and hard pull, but on the easy setting it doesn't pull the clutch out as far, so it's slightly engaged when i pull it in with the bike in gear...one of those two things should fix it, and also maybe you routed the cable differently than stock, which is pulling it a little...does it change when you turn left or right?? if it does find the problem and route it somewhere else ~Mark~

is it wrong that i run cheap (.88 cents per quart) 10-30wt motor oil?? it's the wal*mart brand...shifts smooth and haven't had any problems...will switching to a better oil make my clutch grab better?? it's slightly worn...and it would help if i can find it at wal mart...there isn;t many bike sops around ~Mark~