Ruko

A hooded robber burst into a Texas Bank and forced the tellers to load a sack full of cash. On his way out the door a brave Texas customer grabbed the hood and pulled it off revealing the robber's face. The robber shot the customer without a moment's hesitation. He then looked around the bank and noticed one of the tellers looking straight at him. The robber instantly shot him also. Everyone else, by now very scared, looked intently down at the floor in silence. The Robber yelled, "Well, did anyone else see my face?" There are a few moments of utter silence, in which everyone was plainly afraid to speak. Then one old man tentatively raised his hand and said, "I think my wife may have caught a glimpse of you."

I'm pretty sure the Banshee patterns are 4x156 on the front and 4x115 on the rear.

The stock ones should fit. I ran my stock brake lines with +2+1 arms for 2 years. I upgraded mine last year because the braided ones look better and I had heard they are suppose to work better (harder brakes). I didn't notice any difference though. I'm running the 450 calipers and Honda master cylinder so maybe that's why they didn't make a noticeable difference.

What color is the smoke? If it's white it is from coolant, which would probably mean a leaking head gasket. If it's black and oily it could be a leaking crank seal. Check your transmission oil, if it looks good and isn't low it's probably not a crank seal. If it is low fill it up and run it for a while to see if it goes down. Or it may just be that the pipes are full of old oil and it needs a good run to get hot and burn it all out. If whoever had it before you did a lot of idling and putting around the pipes will fill with unburned goo.

No

Here is the link to the one from Vitos. It includes the idle screw kit in it. http://vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=11&cat=0&page=1

That is the right kit as long as you still have a thumb throttle. If you have switched to a twist throttle it will use a different cable. You will also need this idle screw kit as well http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270514455100. The first kit replaces the tops of the carbs and the cable, the second one gives you a way to adjust your idle once the TORS are removed.

The cc chart doesn't show 65mm, it skips it for some reason, I believe a stock crank 65mm bore is 358cc.

What is the ratio difference with the RZ gears? Also who cut it?

With that gearing you are still a little taller than stock. check this out... http://home.earthlink.net/~gellett/banshee.htm

Mine don't fit very well either.. They are super tight to get onto the flanges, to the point I almost give up trying and lots of swearing, and then I have to put a 1/2" spacer on the hangers to move them out so they don't hit the carbs. Once they are on they work awesome but what a bitch to fit. My old T5's would go on and off no problem... not so for the CPI's.

Those look like standard travel a-arms so they would use stock length shocks. You would need to find long travel arms. Also 19/19.5" is a really long shock, I believe the long travel Banshee arms only use 18/18.5" shocks.

Hmmmm so no one has used one of these??

Anyone try these?? It sounds awesome if it works. http://www.mullengineering.com/sc/store.php/products/yamaha-banshee-yfz-rz-quik-shift-shifter-kit-transmission-gear-gears-speed-drag-clutch-et-power-racing-override-online

What kind of chassis and what kind of screamin deal??

I had my stock rear shock rebuilt and it was way better. They set it up and valve it for your weight and riding style etc, just like a new shock but it was less than half the price of a new one. I got mine done by Shane/Lobo Performance who used to be on here a lot a few years ago... haven't seen him around for a while though. Other places do it too... Elka, TCS, etc. I ran mine for 3 years with no problems. I switched to an Elka rear last summer and it is definitely better than the stock rebuilt shock but the rebuilt one is still way better than stock to start with. If you don't have the money for a new aftermarket shock rebuilding the stocker is a good option. You could also try to find something used... only thing it might be hard to find something set up for your weight.

So does that vent hose come off it or is it from somewhere else?? It is hard to tell from that pic. I have Mikuni's on mine so I don't know for sure how the Keihin's are set up. I know lots of people use those carbs so maybe someone with them can help out.

Hmmm that nipple may have been a vent. They usually have a hose on them that runs down below the carb, but they are left open. If you plugged it off it may be causing a vacuum inside, like trying to pour out of a fuel can without opening the vent. Try unplugging it and see what happens.

The 3 main things needed for a 2 stroke to run are compression, spark and fuel. If you have compression and you have spark then make sure you are getting fuel. If you just put a new fuel tank on maybe it had some crap in it. I don't know what you mean by "plugged the carbs" but I would pull them apart and make sure they are clean, and check the screen in the petcock. Also if you were switching the reed spacers from one side of the reeds to the other that shouldn't make any difference. I have seen them on either side.

I have one... I posted a review about it a while ago. Quality wise it looks great. I like the new cover with the drain in it. I had to grind a little out of the inside of the outside cover to get it to fit over the inner cover but that was no big deal. Service was great too, very easy to deal with. If you have a stock impeller and want to switch to a billet this is a good choice. I was hoping to see some lower water temps though and unfortunately I didn't. I have it in a 485 Cheetah so it may work better in a stock motor. I went from the stock plastic one to a Pro-Design billet and saw no temp difference. Then switched to Chariots and again saw no temp difference. The biggest thing is you can rest easy knowing the billet one wont break apart on you out in the middle on the dunes.

You can get some from Stellar. He is a site sponsor. Lots of good reviews on his stuff.

OK maybe they wont last forever but they are rebuildable. I went with Hiems on mine so I can't say for sure if they are any good or not. http://www.fireball-racing.com/billetball.htm

You would have to call them to find out for sure. It was about 4 years ago that I got mine so I don't really know what they would cost now... plus I don't really remember what I paid . You can also get them with hiem joints or their funky ball joints that are suppose to last forever. That would make a big difference in the cost as those ball joints are pretty pricey.

Yes I still use them. They work great, and if you are looking for long travel these give you about 2 inches more travel as well. My buddy has Laeger arms with Works shocks and he has about 9 inches travel. I have over 11 with these arms and stock length Elka 450 shocks. Then to finish it off I got the Elka rear and linkage this year to go along with it... Awesome ride... I have never rode anything with a real long travel set up to compare it too but mine rides way nicer than my buddies.

That is my quad in that pic. Those a-arms work awesome, I would definitely recommend them if you are using 450 shocks.