jeepman380

That sounds really lean on the main. It's been a long time ago since I had stock cylinders and T5s but I think I remember running a main size in the 180s I believe...180-185 maybe. 158 just sounds really lean.

So It will pull fine on top but it falls out in the midrange? What are your mods and what jets do you have in it right now?

Sent you a PM.

no takers?

It is the April issue but it's not an april fools article from what I read. They said there are a few prototypes being test as we speak. They said the picture on the cover is what it will most likely look like.

Here is a pic of the setup...

Get an 99-02 R6 rear shock off eBay. I got mine for $50. It's 12" eye to eye. They bolt right up. You have to drill the top shock hole out just a smidge though for the bolt to fit but it works. And you have to swap out the spacers from the bottom hole as well. Lowers it quite a bit plus it's a damn good shock. That would work great if you are asphault draggin'.

Just heat up the inner race of the bearing on both sides with a little propane torch for about 10 seconds on each side and it should just slide right on.

It wouldn't hurt anything to seal it up. Have you tried heating it up a bit and using a left handed drill bit? If that didn't work you could drill it out I suppose and re-tap it.

No, I prefer to sell the whole setup. Sorry.

What I have here is a Trinity 2 into 1 setup with a 35 PWK with stainless braided thumb throttle cable. It's in mint shape. Comes with new air filter w/outerwear as well as the old, new vent hoses, new o-ring between air boot and intake, and I will also include some jets. I'm asking $350 +s/h.

That's a Stage III???? I've seen better clean up ports.

Sold

You should have inspected each gear carefully. They could be rounded on the inside where they mesh together.

Is the guy at your local VW parts store gonna be able to tell you how to use it for a banshee?

Well you only use one type of tungsten when welding this kind of steel. If all you was trying to do was just provide a mechanism to preserve the press fit of the pin into the crank web then you might as well just tack weld the sides of the crank instead of welding it. If you don't get enough penetration then the two pieces are not gonna bond well enough and the weld will eventually just crank under stress. :thumbsup:

Nobody mentioned brats. Those work really well.

Should tear it down anyway and check the bearings and seals just to be safe. If you have a bad crank seal and you throw a new top end on it chances are you will be putting another new top end on it again. Might as well take a look at the bottom while you are doing it all. Better safe than sorry.

They should stay with the cylinders. After it is bored and honed you need to make sure the powervalves are not protruding out into the cylinder a little bit. If they are they just need to be sanded a little bit to line up with the cylinder.

Might want to check your clutch adjustment. Check the arrows on the clutch pull lever and on the case. Should line up or be a little bit towards the stator side with the slack out of the clutch lever. You can adjust that with the nut and philips head screw in the outer clutch hub. Jeff at F.A.S.T. sells the pancake bearings. Give him a call.

That seems kinda low. Doesn't seem to get enough penetration with that low of amperage. 120 might cut it but anything lower than that wouldn't get enough penetration IMO.

They have white springs.

I used them on the stock a-arms first then I bought a set of Wicked Products +2+1 and they worked great. Sorry the A-Arms are not for sale.

I have a set of YFZ450 front shocks for sale. They are in good shape. Maybe a few paint chips here and there on the springs from normal wear...nothing serious. I already sanded them down to fit on stock A-Arms. I ran them with +2 arms and they work extremely well. Night and day difference from stock. I want at least $200-$250 for the pair.

Got a set of Rocket Pipes up for grabs. Silencers are a bit ruff because they fell apart from not being welded very well from the builder but I had them rewelded. I also have a whole other set of head pipes that i'm gonna sell with these as well because the set i'm running has 2 tiny pinhole leaks in one of the head pipes so I got a whole new set of those. The new set has never been used nor put on my bike. Asking $400-$450 for everything.