sredish

Exactly what I was going to say. The choke should make a difference, if it's not, then your too rich. Back her off to the stock pilots and you'll be set.

No sense in changing anything now since you don't know how it will run there. You'll probably be alright, but do like I do, just run a plug check when you first get there. You'll know how it's running by how it revs and you can read the plug to see if there's a change. If not, your good, if so, then make a quick adjustment. Chances are your fine.

so you have duals? The way you worded your first post made me think you have a single, but you have duals...

Yea, those colors are hard to see unless you make it fullsize, which is big. The banshee is a 370LR with porting. Don't know the size of carbs off hand, can't remember actually. Click HERE for the torque sheet This new look makes it hard to see links.

The 165 main is revving a little because of the leanness, like running it out of fuel, it always rev's a little, and 165 is plenty lean. You need to be at 185 or higher by my guesstimations. I'd say throw a 190 or 195, or hell, even a 200 and see where your at. Be sure to read the plugs. Leave your needle in the 3rd position till you get the main set better, then dial in with the needle. I'd say pilot between 48 and 52 depending on how your machine likes it and they're all different with the single carb. Spark plug gap isn't your problem, and I never gap them, I use them out of the box, they're set fine that way.

I wouldn't be changing your heat range UNLESS your plug reading constitutes it. If you don't know where to look for that, then you sure as hell shouldn't be changing the heat plug. Run a BR8ES unless you wanna try the stronger sparking BR8EIX Iridiums. I believe the iridiums do provide a much stronger and hotter (not heat range) spark, but after having some jetting issues I went back to BR8ES's to go back to my baseline. If you try the $7 Iridiums, be sure to check your plugs as the stronger/hotter spark can possibly require a tad richer jetting to compensate for the heat, it can handle it as they are hard to foul, but I did foul one once.

Here is the link for the image. The peak rpm is closer between the two than I thought.

Hell, I loved my Fatties in the sand. Great pipes right there, the T5s are also great pipes. So, it's a tough decision, they both actually produce similar power on the dyno, similar curves and all, main difference is the T5s come on about 900rpm later and fall off about 900rpm later.

Ok, it's possible that the fuel supply line for that one carb is pinched or crimped or the bent line for the float is pinched and when it starts craving more fuel it won't flow fast enough on the one side. Something easy to look for, but often overlooked.

Nah, it looks super pimp. I'd actually take a black exterior with the red interior over the red outside, dunno what i was thinking. I can't link to the interior pics, it's all flash and shit. Click here and go to photo gallery.

Do you have any links to oil tests or anything? The only preference I have in oils is to use the same one all the time. I started out on Castor 927, so I've stuck with it, not for any more reason than I don't like to change oils. If I found one that supposedly worked better, with actual facts, I'd consider changing, but I've had good luck so far. I would like to look at testing and such if you have any links to any.

i think the new stangs look awesome, but the only way i'd want one is in a GT version, bright red, with the red interior upgrade and the cragar style throwback wheels. Any other is just a piece of shit waste of a stang.

aight man. I'd go ahead and pull your needle and verify it's a DEK if you haven't already, it's stamped on the side just below the clip area, tho I'm 99% sure it will be. Ok, then call CarbParts.com and ask the dude who answers to send you an EEK needle for your Keihen carb. That simple, other than giving him your credit carb number or whatever. Then just drop it in and throw in a 210 main and do a plug check. Hopefully, it'll want leaned out a size or two. I ended up dropping mine down to a 200 and ran it there for a few weeks and then as the weather cooled off, threw the 205 back in. My machine is getting an "agressive" woods port, dunno, something like a woods port but a tad more flow, dunno, I'm not a porter, just a rider and it sounded like what I wanted. Hope to have it back in another week. I'm also changing pipes, from Fatties to Paul Turner mids. And I'm using Wiseco Prolite Pistons. Wiseco makes vitos pistons, and I haven't really heard a lot of bad things about Vitos setup, but nonetheless, I went with my personal tried and trued Wiseco. So, I'll have a couple changes to deal with. I'm gonna advance my timing from +4 to +6 also. I'll be taking it to a dyno to tune it up properly and I'll make the timing changes on the dyno as well to see how shee likes it.

This thread is OUTTA CONTROL!!

That's definitely how I was going to approach it, I just wanted to bring it into "open discussion". Appreciate the comments.

you guys need to quit bein pussies and just get some Razrs.... fro, whas happenin with your quad yo?

... and my quad don't run no 100 mph. not yet anyways... i'd have a hard time on the xc courses blazin thru the trees at 100.

In no way am I trying to start one of those threads and I'm not at all questioning your pipes, I'm asking for honest info. The PT's were 5 hp under at peak I'm guessing, but what about in the 6,000 rpm range and/or the low/mid power area? In the XC environment I'm racing in, that is a much more important area of the powerband, than peak 10k rpm or so. I'm not really familiar with either pipe on the dyno, so it's all new info for me. Thanks man, later fellas.

Keep us updated yo!

OK, let me ask you all a question I thought of while driving around today. If I make a slight jetting change, like 1 main size and gain a few hp, does that mean that's the better setup or will I still have to worry about being too lean? Like, if I lean my main 1 size or even 2 and gain hp over the base reading, does the more power tell me it's right on or will I then have to double check that I don't have it too lean? Jetting on a dyno is new for me as well and this might be a stupid question, but I don't want to totally rely on my dyno readings unless there is no worries as long as there is power gains. Dunno, later fellas.

i also meant to say, all the above is unported. I was running my dek in the 4th clip with my 230 main. It was too rich in the 5th, but not at WOT, it was too rich at 1/2 to 3/4, didn't transition well to the main. Now, with the EEK in the 4th and 205 main it pulls totally awesome from 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, no hesitation or richness and just keeps pulling harder to WOT. Transition is much much better with this needle. I've since sent my cylinders off for porting, so I'll be starting all over again. Oh well, I'm sure it will be worth it, but we'll see where my jetting ends up. I might not have to richen up a whole lot, because there should be a lot more air velocity, therefore pulling a lot more fuel along with it. I'm hoping so. I'll be sure to post the results on here.

damn you!!! lucky sob

I was at a 230 main with my DEK needle. Now I'm at 205 with my EEK and much better power, keeps on hitting as the rpms climb and doesn't lean out in 5th and 6th.

don't know that they pull/push very much cfm... good idea tho, maybe worth a shot.