sredish

found the picture... he pulled the shocks to... that's right.

Yea, he was from Ireland I think, something like that. He used to put his banshee in the back of his hatchback, I think it was. I can't believe I can't remember his name, it's right on the tip of my toungue..... It'll come to me in a sec. I used to have pictures of that on my 'puter. He'd pull the wheels and tires, lay the bars down and strap the grab bar down to the carrier to shring it some.... then drive it onto a ferry to go ride across in the netherlands with his friend.... Dammit, his name will come to me.

This is James Woodford's race team's website. You can contact them as well and I'm sure he can get you the proper info. http://www.xtravelsuspension.com/products.shtml

contact them. it's a very very very killer setup, just insane. it will ride like your mother's couch. James Woodford Sundahl Racing Products 9033 Spring Valley Ca, 91977 Ph-760-429-8417 they had / have a website but I'm having trouble finding it.

yea, i really have no idea if the trinity will fit I was just throwing that out there. i also have no experience with the rpm stuff so I'm probably not a whole lot of help. just throwing ideas out.

call trinity. i bet theirs will work as that one is probably a copy. tell them you broke or cracked yours and need a new one. :thumbsup:

RIP, I'm a big advocate of the Airstryker and probably would've taken the 38 airstryker over a standard 35.

Good, I'd love to hear a comparison from a single bike. It's easy for one person to say one thing and then another person to say something else but the back to back comparison will give us some good info. If you really wanted to make us happy, get them prejetted and ready to run, then go hit the dyno and dial the 35 in, then swap to the 38 and finish dialling it in for a curve comparison, now that would be saweet.

There's really no reason to get a 38 over a 35 unless you just happen to find a good deal on a 38. Most anything you have that a single 35mm will not be able to keep up with will be a situation where you'll want duals anyway. Not to say the 38 won't work but no reason to search the 38 out over a 35.

www.carbparts.com call them tomorrow and tell them what you need.

agreed. can be a bitch to tune the starting circuit and needle circuit. they're just a pita. PWKs are sooo much nicer. or if you want cream of the crop, get a PWK Airstryker.

that's kinda like how trinity's dyno always reads 20% to 25% higher than everyone elses...... snop's recommendations are what i'd recommend as well. go for it.

270 to 300 would be safe. and you might have to adjust the needle a clip position as the weather changes but you never know.

no doubt.... i've done some super super stupid shit.... things that you just can't think of and it takes someone else looking over your shoulder to say hey, dumbass, it's right there.... :biggrin: glad it's found. have fun with the new found power, finally.

I'll buy the graydon if you wanna sell it.

I prefer a +8 as well... much more responsive....

a little searching will yield A LOT of results...

Yea, there's a night and day difference in carb setup on a PV and non-PV motor..... :cool:

I'd bet the Vforces are lined up about like the stockers... maybe a little better but I wouldn't imagine much.

well, what are you fucking with? You haven't done a plug chop and given us the results. Have you done any main jet changes? We can't help you when you don't give us results after making changes. Three rules for jetting: 1) Make ONLY one change at a time 2) Always write down the changes and results 3) Patience If your going in there with a screwdriver and screwing with the air screw and then messing with this and not paying attention or keeping notes, you'll end up not knowing what you've done, how you got there and how it's so fucked up. Start with the main jet. Get it dialed in with a 5th or 6th gear plug chop / run. Then, when you got that set, work on dialing in the needle. Start with the air screw turned out about 1.5 to 2 turns and then see how it does. It SHOULD need the choke to start on a cold motor and it SHOULD NOT need the choke to start with a warm motor. If you don't need the choke on a cold motor, your pilot's rich. If the choke helps on a warm motor, then it's lean. Play with the choke when it's sitting there idling to see how it reacts. Step by step, one step at a time. Write things down and take it slow. Use the chart to help. Just for information, the screw is not really going to solve starting problems and bog problems when doing donuts, it's a very very fine tuning thing. Get the main set, then the needle and work on the pilot separately.

nice. i see what the pic is now, it was hard to tell w/o paying attention like i did the first time and your explanation helps. sounds like a fun project and i'm sure the outcome will be worth it. take a pic for us looking in from where the carb is, looking at the Y, if possible. looks good tho. trying to remember how the vforces line up with the inside of the single carb intake.... what your doing has gotta help.

the people that hate the orings, hate them because they're inexperienced with installing them and the head. the orings are the ONLY way to do a 2 stroke head. the cool heads are awesome, last forever and you can dial in the compression you need. the orings are typically reusable but it's good to have several sets on hand if your going to be doing multiple changes. they are easy to install, never a problem, just watch how they go in.

PRM, no others.

what are you going to do with the intake? that's the most importaant aspect of the 2-1 setup as you have the "Y" in the intake and must seperate the airflow as efficiently as possible. The old Graydon does this pretty well.

no lid is ideal. with the seat on, the airbox is still pretty protected and no lid helps a lot. if you need need need something, you can use a K&N lid that's breathable. 1) timing plate 2) mill head 3) port stock reed cages / boyesen carbon reeds 4) proper jetting (cheap but very often overlooked; dialing in jetting that is off a little is usually worth several ponies)