sredish

EEK for a non-ported motor..... DEK or EEK on a ported motor depending on type of porting. Doesn't hurt to try an EEK on the motor, but you might have to go down a size or two on the main. Really tho, you need to get the main set, on a WOT plug check, then once you have your WOT / main jet dialed in, match the needle by riding and adjusting. All the needle does is meter the main jet from 1/4 throttle up to WOT, different needles allow the fuel to come in faster or slower, etc.

look in the yellow pages, there's bound to be one near you. if you're in a small town, look online at like yellowpages.com using a nearby big town.

got any milled heads?

not oxidized.... word you're looking for is oxygenated.... :thumbsup:

there's no perfect setup that will work for every bike; even an exact bike with the exact mods, motors are as individual as people. I've done some testing back in the day with different setups and came to a few conclusions, all based on a stock bore/stroke ported bike; compared to the stock carbs, a single 35mm will have more lowend, smoother delivery and more top end. Is there power left on the table when compared to a larger pair of carbs, yea probably a little. On my bike, going from the single 35 to a pair of 30s (borrowed from a friend), there was a little loss in low, creating a 'hit' in the midrange with a little stronger top. I feel the midrange was pretty close but it built more as the rpms climbed. However, for my ride style and preferences, I didn't feel the little loss in bottom and less smooth powerband was worth the little extra top. If I was a drag racer, sure no prob but as a mostly trail/dune bike with some play drags thrown in, the smoother delivery was key for me, less tiresome after a long day of riding. There's another factor involved. Bigger is not always better. To get a carb to work properly, there has to be vacuum. Have you ever been walking down an open hallway in an outside hotel or school or something; you make that corner and the 'wind tunnel' effect about blows you backwards? That's what a carburetor is doing and it's relying on the motors sucking power to create this effect through the carb, in which the vacuum sucks fuel through the jets. If you go too big, you will seriously hinder this vacuum and affect how well the carb can work, creating issues in the lower rpms with jetting (bogging, flat lowend power). There's always a happy medium and this varies considerably depending on rider preferences, ride style and terrain. With that, I'm getting ready to try a single 38mm on my new build. I really had a hard time with the choice as I wanted to go with a pair of 28s or 30s this time around. I imagine later on, like summer, I'll pick up a set of 30s to try out on this one. I'm afraid the single 38mm is going to be too big creating this vacuum issue at lower rpms, at least until I get some more mods done to the motor, where I feel the 28s would've handled the current setup fine and grown with me as the motor grows. Oh well, we'll see.

what kind of chrome pipes do ya have...

so you can do a hi-temp Powdercoat on the exhaust. Good to know.

2-1 is mine, sold. Lowbuck, I replied to your PM. Blaat, i tried but your inbox is full. lowbuck, I'll send money in a few min. Scott

Thinking about some coating options and wondering what the temps of the pipe will get. Isn't there a hi-temp PC that will work?

asking what mods to do next? You need some compression and porting for starters. Advance the timing and reeds (vforce) as well.

it's nothing special, just gas that has a higher predet resistance. Won't affect consumption, your build is what affects that. won't affect premix ratios. won't affect jetting, unless you use oxy.

want that 2-1. Dammit! Also want those VForce II. PM Sent.

you have any pictures?

play with the needle. raise it and see if it helps, if not, then lower it. also, maybe try a 300 main.

the fricken dunes will do it every time. not sure of your brother's accident, sounds bad but that place will catch you off guard and swallow you if you're not careful. bout killed me 6 or so years ago. cool, thanks for the update.

agreed. your banshee, while it is the same 'type' of motor, is by no means a chainsaw motor. it's probably doing alright but I'd suggest the same, getting something more geared towards performance engines, and a synthetic.

you can use octane booster, but it's very likely that you won't find a booster that works how you need it. they only do in points of octane, not full octane. if it says 3 to 5 points it would be like 0.3 to 0.5 octane boost, so not even a full octane. You can add toluene (aka methylbenzene) or xylene if you're in a jam. Xylene might be easier to find (with the paint thinners) in a typical hardware store or paint store like Sherwin Williams. Mix it 10% - 30% with pump gas, then add your oil to it. It might throw the jetting off some and expect poor cold start performance with the more concentrated mixtures. 4 quarts in a gallon, so there's your 25% mixture. To make a 5 gallon mixture, take 4 gallons of pump and 4 quarts (1 gallon) of Toulene or Xylene.

The RZ motor is maybe good for 10 or so AT PEAK. However, in the lower and mid rpms (before peak), there's quite a bit of gain over a non-PV motor, it produces a much smoother, better overall powerband. Great motor there. That cart is pretty cool, but other than the cool factor, seems like a waste. It's short, no ground clearance, little cart wheels, too tall for decent handling. I'd much rather see it in something with some travel for a mini desert buggie or something.

FLAAAME!!! :biggrin: Shouldn't be problem seeing as they're sealed. Go for it, but if you're really worried about them, they don't cost a lot; give em to a bud and tell him you're doing something nice for him. :cool:

see. this is the kind of talk that is always getting you in trouble. it makes ZERO sense. Forged means they're forged not cast (google it) and very strong. They're not trying to copy anything, they're making a superior piston. Go Wiseco. Edit: And why did you put this in the Gen. Discussion section, that's another mark against you. You can probably search Wiseco in the proper forum (Repairs & Mods) and get your answer.

40:1 is a good even mixture using a good oil. I'd run Yamalube 32:1 tho.

yea, it seems things, availabilities and trends have changed... where's your brother at?

Stock bike, stock everything, never been touched. I intend to pull it apart this summer and get some dune porting done along with maybe a pair of 28s. In the meantime, I need some pipes. I would really like to get some PT Hi Revs but they're nowhere to be found and I despise giving Duncan all that cash. No long term intentions to stroke. Never stepped into the CPI, Shearer type pipe. My riding will be 50% trail / 30% dune / 20% play drag. I was thinking of maybe going ahead and getting some CPIs now so I don't have to buy pipes then sell and rebuy later, or do you guys think I may just not like the CPIs at all until the motor work is done? I did not like the T5s, felt they were too peaky with a crappy mid and fell flat, I know the CPIs peak higher but from the dyno's I've seen, they seem to build a little smoother, or am I wrong? Is there a 'top end pipe" that falls somewhere in between the CPI and the PT's, like maybe Rockets? I may try and wait a little bit to search out some PTs but just thinking out loud. I remember the used market being bigger... can't find crap right now.

ttt

change your gearing, go to a 15 front. then check the jetting. do the timing whenever, do it first if you want. how are you going to bump up the timing. there's more to it than psi compression when figuring octane requirements. my rule of thumb is 165 to 170 when you start mixing in race fuel and 170+ use race especially with advanced timing. you could change the main to what you think it should, then make the mechanical changes (timing / sprocket) and go out and test it out.