sredish

927 @ 40:1. Perfect ratio. 927 is awful carbony, want to find something that doesn't carbon up so much and isn't as smokey. It lubes really good but.....

Ricky Stator is the place to be. http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/product...products_id=131 You can probably find them on Ebay but you won't get the service and warranty you'll get from Ricky and I doubt they'll be any cheaper.

no, you need to pull the clutch and kill it while your running it so you can get a direct view to the plugs. if you don't have a lot of places to open it up like that, it makes sense that it's probably jetted around the 4th gear but the load gets greater as you get into 5th and then 6th, so the fuel requirements go up. So, it could be running perfect in 4th WOT and lean out at 6th WOT. Like I said, simply go a size or two richer on the main jets.

yea, it can be done at any time as I'm sure your aware. I like the plates over the keys but that's your call. Sounds good, sounds like you have a good plan for what you want out of the motor. As far as the rebuild. Often times, if you catch it right, you can replace the rings and keep your bore and pistons. I can usually get 3 sets of rings out of a pair of pistons, in fact my '01 has only had one over bore. Just check the compression good after the new rings, write it down and when the compression drops a certain percent, throw new rings in. Yea, there's not really any big need for reeds yet. You'll really start to see the benefits with a ported motor and carbwork. As far as the lightened flywheel, you can usually find a machine shop that'll do it for ya. my old bud, member "boonman" used to do it on here for not a lot of dough and it's a good modification. Makes the motor much snappier, revs great and super responsive.

sounds like it's a tad lean on the main jets. might go up a size or two on the main jets and it'll help it. along with that you should run some plug checks and confirm that.

thats because when the motor heats up, the rings heat up and expand, tightening up against the cylinder wall and helping hold compression for starting.

that sounds like a valid thought except one thing that catches me. if you were having a petcock problem that was keeping fuel from getting to the bowl, then it should be running out of fuel quickly as it uses whatever fuel is in the bowl as the petcock wouldn't be able to keep up. the fact that it's running good once you get it started, leads me to something else. how long have you ridden it at one time since you've had it, if not too long then something to look at. i'm not saying you shouldn't clean out the petcock, probably not a bad idea but not sure it's going to fix the problem.

I can't stand to have a ride height over 8". I always use 7 3/4"" in front and 7 1/2" in the rear, with 20" tires. Works great for xc, woods and trails, etc. Then, if you were to hit the track and throw on some 18's, then you'll drop down another inch. 7" or so is more ideal for mx.

Never had the Aliens or tried them. Didn't realize they were a mid - top pipe, I thought they were more geared for woods/mx; but never had or tried any so I'm probably wrong.

RZs are for girls. But a 7 mil RZ, now that might be fun!

you'll always have a tad bit of smoke with the 2 stroke because the fuel is a mixture of gas and oil, so your putting oil right in the combustion chamber and naturally, it's going to smoke as it gets burnt. with 4 strokes, the oil is supposed to stay on the underside of the rings and it only smokes when the rings are getting worn and oil slides past. for what its worth, my 4 stroke smokes on hard throttle accel, just as you punch it then cleans out but it's a 2 ring piston, meaning one compression ring and one oil wiper ring and with the single compression ring, it's hard to keep every single bit of oil out but its lighter and produces better performance.

i use a jigsaw real slow. then when the trimming is done, use a propane or butane torch from the hardware store to smooth / finish the edges. if you just quickly graze the trimmed fender with the torch, go over it once, then go over it again, don't hold it in one place just back and forth until you see it start to get shiny. then let off. you'll end up with an edge that looks factory and is smooth and nice.

Those Fatties work really well on a 4 mil motor. They're more all-around (bottom to top) pipe, where the T5s are a little more top end heavy. I personally like the T5s but this site is more geared towards dune and drag here lately and the preference runs to topend. Don't remember how / where you ride but choose the pipes based on your ride style and if you have the Fatties, I wouldn't be buying new pipes until you at least tried the ones you have on the built motor first. You can always buy them later and I'm betting you'll love the Fatties on the 4 mil.

jetting is always a possibility. how far is your home from where you bought it, any major elevation changes? let us know what the compression checks out at. we'll go from there.

if it was a 4 stroke but a 2 stroke is going to smoke a tad bit anyways, too much to diagnose rings. if the compression was low, it's still capable of running pretty good even though it's starting like a beeotch. i'm not saying the starting issue is 100% the rings but it's a very common symptom, especially when it runs good otherwise. i've been out with friends and we'll just laugh because it takes them 50 kicks to get it going but then once it's started, it's going fine. in an extreme case, yea, performance will suffer but it really shouldn't get that far. I've used a single pair of pistons for 3 years and just reringed once a year. if I was to just wait for the compression to drop that much, then the pistons would've worn as well and I'd have ended up having to overbore and get pistons. On a 2-stroke, it's important to keep the rings fresh and the compression up. I actually hate stock compression. Regardless of the machine, I like to have it up to the point where 108 is necessary... I'm a big fan of compression. I usually run 175 lbs in the banshee; any more than that and you risk twisting a crank. You can mill the head while your swapping rings/pistons for $35 or $40 and gain some lowend that way, and still run pump gas. the problem with running higher compression is when you start with 150 and the rings wear and compression drops, it can still be at 130, starting fine running fine but have a ring problem. that's why it's important to know what your compression is and keep fresh rings in.

you should probably have over 320s, the problem is we don't really know what's been done to the porting but if it's some pretty strong porting, 350s wouldn't be out of the question, i'm just not familiar with Trinity's porting. but a stock ported bike with T5s needs 300s or 310s and with porting it'll want richer mains than that. it's all about time and patience. don't hurry, write down the jetting changes and pretty soon you'll get to know what to expect from your bike and what changes are necessary. use the chart i posted above to dial in what part of the carb to work on. if it's happening at 1/2 throttle then verify with the chart what you need to change. if it's right at WOT or so, then the mains need attention. I would quit riding it, except for quick ride tests until you get it. if your too lean, it could possibly run good for a bit but you'll end up burning a piston up and doing very bad things. happens all the time.

Isn't that going to be dependent on your country. Import fees and taxes would be assessed by your country not leaving ours, at least thats what I thought. I can't answer your question but that's how I thought it goes. I know shipping to canada, we don't impose a tax on it going out but canada will tax it after it comes in and the tax is based on what the value is, which has to be written on a export sheet thats on the outside of the box. If I ship something to canada, i write what the value is and then it's taxed based on that. if i was to, lets say, not give an accurate figure, then I could deceive them if I wanted to help someone with what they have to pay in taxes. Now, I'm not sure I'd go through all the trouble for T6s or T5s for that matter. The Fatties you mentioned are great pipes that work extremely well on the banshee and will work better and better as you mod. the T6s won't work near as well when you mod further. i know you may think you won't but I'd hate to see you spend all the dough getting the T6s and then in the future want to change stuff. If your stuck on the Toomeys, call them directly, I'm sure they've shipped overseas.

here's the very first thing I would do. I would pull the bowls and find out exactly what's in there. in an extreme lean condition, it could possibly run pretty good but it won't for too long. if you don't find out what you have then we can work towards where you should be. also, you need to search for "plug chop" or plug check or something so you can learn how to read the plugs after a WOT plug run. this will also help to tell you how it's running. above all, your flying blind and you need to know what your working with so you can move forward. if you think it's rich, then find out whats in there and then lean it some but you need to know.

what kind of oil. smell it. you should be able to distinguish if it's filter oil or premix. if it's filter oil then it's probably just draining down some and settling and it wouldn't really surprise me. K&Ns don't really hold a lot of oil so any excess will probably run out pretty decent.

first thing I would do is a compression check. sounds like that thing may be in need for some new rings and/or pistons. you want at least 100 lbs. but stock at sea level, it's 120 or 125, can't remember. I usually recommend redoing the rings at 100 lbs on a stock bike. If compression gets low then it can be a huge pain to start.

cut them babies off.....

the timing plate is a good addition. i advanced mine to 7* and could tell a good bit more snappiness in it. It's been dyno proven to show that it doesn't make much more power once you get over 4 or 5 degrees but it does feel snappier to me at 7*, but 4 or 5 degrees is sufficient. RickyStator as mentioned has them cheap, also look at ebay. As far as the Toomey jet kit. I'd use the mains necessary to dial it in but I'd leave the stock needles in place, don't use the Toomey needles. I've seen and fixed quite a few jetting problems where the Toomey needles were the culprit. I'm not a fan of Toomey or Dynojet needles. Use the mains and pilots as needed and your good. The Toomey 2:1 filter deal is a good one, works well and have heard loads of good feedback on it. What are you doing for reeds? Not super necessary yet but they will make an improvement, but don't buy any except for the VForce, so if your not ready for the Vforce money-wise, wait until you are. Next, you can mill the head .030" for $35 or $40, or you can blow more on the billet Noss heads. That should be enough for now. Truthfully, what you have in the list is a great start. The timing plate is cheap and will help and can be done at any time. Have fun with it and be ready for a different machine.

i'd try richening the main jets first. go back above and try the jets I mentioned and see how it runs. 340 or 350 main jets needles 4th clip from the TOP ( not the bottom like I inaccurately said up there )

not knowing what inside the cylinders could be a problem but it's most likely the "Stage III" porting. you have any idea what the "new" carbs are jetted with? have you pulled the plugs out to see what they look like? and you say, "has no power till top end", is this at WOT or what? I'd guess a start would be 340s or 350s on the main jet, 27.5 pilots and needles in the 4th clip from the bottom, to start with. use the attached picture to help us diagnose what throttle position this is happening at and what exactly is it doing?

does it idle okay? does it rev up to that point then shit out? how do you have the TORS "bypassed"?