MILO

changing your oil shouldn't cause anything like that, unless you really over filled it? you didn't do anything else to it??

when mine started to bind up and get really tough to pull, it was the bearing where the pivot arm goes into the crankcase. the seal was bad and it trashed the needle bearings. i replaced the arm, bearing and seal, and put on a motion pro cable... smooth as could be, even with HD springs.

DID x-ring - renthal sprockets.

can you really tell that by taking it for one ride? sounds like he was trying to sucker you into his shop for some bucks!!

nope, no heat. i was afraid of the heat causing more problems, like you said. then a little job would turn into a big nasty one. $$$

i've been debating about getting a magnetic drain plug, maybe that would be a good idea for you too. i've never really noticed any shavings or anything, but i'm sure there's been some.

well, that's what i was hoping to hear. just some lockwashers with no problems. nylocks sound good too. not sure if i wanna go with the safety wire. i'd like to keep it as clean and simple as possible. thanks guys.

i had about the same thing with mine. i noticed the whole motor jumping around when revving and vibrating a lot. i found that i could pry the motor up about 1/8" from the frame, most of the slop seemed to be in the rear mount. my motor mounts bushings were shot too, and i just replaced them and the bolts last week. need to put the chain and new sprockets on today and try it out. i hope that fixes it. if you don't have a press, they are a bitch to get out. i used a 13/16" socket with an extension to keep away from hitting the motor itself, and a BMFH, and a lot of pounding. those rubber bushings just bounce back so you have to try to stay on the race. on the rear one, you'll notice that the steel tubes from one mount meets the other in the middle. i cut the steel spacer tubes off flush with the motor's mounting block so i wasn't trying to push two bushings out at once, just one at a time. that really helped too. the new ones slip in pretty easily with a little grease and a little tapping with a hammer. oh, yeah, and i ordered mine from Ronnie's, but i'm sure any dealer should be able to get them.

have you cleaned the carbs at all lately? i had the same symptoms once and it was just some junk in my float bowl. i guess it would clog up, then loosen up again, over and over. start with the simple things before ripping the head off. if it's in the carbs you may need a new filter, or just clean it more often.

i'm sure somebody else has had those 2 stud washer plates that you fold over the nut to hold it on go bad before too. any other tricks to use besides a lockwasher, a cotter pin, or just plain getting new ones??

exactly the reason to have one. mine failed, more like disintegrated, trashed the seal and leaked antifreeze into the tranny. screwed up my clutch, which i ended up replacing too. but it was a good excuse to upgrade

80 wt Bel-Ray Gearsaver - changed about every... whenever i feel like doing it i guess, or when i pull the cover for something. usually before any all day ride or poker run though. both of which are few and far between. every 3 rides like most guys seem to do could be once a month for me. # of hrs not a clue. if it looks too dark when i check it, vs. the bright red when new, i'll change it.

what difference will it make if you have it in backwards?? the same thing happened to me when i had it apart. honestly, i don't remember which way i put it in, it's been a few months. i guess if it was wrong and could be a big issue it would have come about by now.

seemed like a pretty decent deal. 34k miles, 4wd, excellent shape inside and out -14,995. my wife looked at it a few times, and liked it, so i drove it and checked it out a little and no problems. she said she'd like it so we made the deal. BUT-i overlooked a few things that i just take for granted- no cruise, fog lights, or rr defog. oh well, that's tolerable. after having it for a day or so, the only thing i think is wrong is the steering wheel doesn't lock. i thought that was a standard safety/theft deterrrent issue. gonna have to go back and bitch i guess surely it's not a normal thing with these trailblazers

i thought mine had a knock or something too, and some vibration, and when closely watching and listening to the motor while revving it, i noticed that my motor mount dampers were shot, and the whole motor jumpin around and vibrating pretty bad. i put the new dampers in but haven't got it back in the frame yet, so i'm anxious to see how much it helped, or if there's still something wrong. i guess if it was something in the clutch, like the adjuster coming loose or something you would have clutch problems too. seems odd that it started after landing a jump though you wouldn't think anything in the motor would get jarred loose or out of wack. were you on the throttle hard, or not at all and seem to want to stall when you touched down?

i'm in the process of makin' my shit rip, can't wait till it's done - weight reductions include removing handle bars, foot pegs,seat, and that stupid hose from the gas cap, damn that thing has to create a lot of wind drag. oh yeah, and losing 20 lbs just by letting the air out of the tires.(the easiest mod i've ever done) i've had enough of this freekin twin 350 too. lets just say my next power plant is a well know engine builder, begins with Briggs and ends with Stratton. i can't release the full name yet or the competetion will know my secret. yeah, you just wait till i'm done and we'll see whose shit rips

i think it would def be worth the $$, but didn't want it added to my last order. got a budget you know my next order from RM is gonna have one in it though

i'd confront his ass and see what's up. if your a teeny bopper, have your parents confront him. most likely he's tryin to have your ass busted by the locals. why are you doin all this shit on the street anyway, is there nowhere else to play around or what??

i'll have to try the trick of spraying around the boots and reed cages and see what happens. i have pc pipes and silencers, pro flow foams w/o the lid, around 1200ft,needle at 4th clip, and running 360 mains. that's just what shee liked to get a nice little ring with the plug chops. there are way to many variables to say exactly what any jetting should be at. do a plug chop and put in what makes her happy

cannondale is one of the premier bicycle manufacturers in the nation, and it's a shame that their bike and quad division didn't have more success. they definitely have the tech and engineering to pull it off. i was really excited to see that they started it up. both plants ( bicycles and quads) are only about 20 min from my house, and their stuff did look pretty sweet. several local guys got a part time job testing rides on the mx track behind the plant and believe me, i was tempted, but my work schedule clashed with theirs and it didn't work out. i'd love to see cannondale make another attempt someday, i'd definitely look into it then. i don't think they're completely out of the picture yet.

thanks fixitrod.

i've had them for about 2 years or so. i've dealt with works to get replacement bushings last summer and they seemed pretty cool to deal with. i don't ride a lot, especially once bow season starts in oct., then it pretty much sits for the winter. so maybe i'll hook up with them then, if it's nothing major and can wait. thanks

my clymer's diagram shows a small flat washer between the clip on the needle, and the holding plate that screws to the slide. well, neither of mine have that washer in there. i'm the only one that's ever worked on it, and i sure don't remember them being there, or missing them last time ( the only time) i had them apart. it apparantly doesn't have much affect cuz it's been a long... time since i moved the needle clip last. but it does occasionally have a sputter in the mid range. would that be from those washers missing and letting the needle move a little?? if you guys think they are necessary, i'll replace them, but if not i'm not gonna worry about it.

my dad called our cable co. to bitch about the rates going up again, and asked for 1 good reason why he shouldn't switch to a dish. besides the normal local channel shit, which isn't really true, the rep went into a big bullshit story about his aunt. she got a dish, and the guys hooked it up an whatever and it worked fine for a few weeks, then all she would get on her tv was a pic of a leaf. fed up she called the dish co., and they came back and said that since the leaves are coming back on the trees(springtime) that they'd have to move her dish, cuz she was seeing the leaves on the tree near the dish. which left holes in her house roof where they mounted it the first time. she got billed 2x for mounting the dish and setting it up, but she didn't have to watch a leaf flapping in the wind 24/7 on her tv. but she did have a leak in her roof when it rained which caused water damage inside her house, and the dish co. isn't responsible for fixing it, so she got a ladder and headed for the roof to fix the hole, and fell off the ladder and broke her ankle. so now she's in the hospital, with a broken ankle watching cable tv that she had to begin with. after being enticed with the wonderful cable service while in the hospital, she decided to go back to her previous cable co. and forget the hassle of the dish. the rep asked my dad if he wanted to go thru that kind of bs just from switching from cable to a dish system. my dad told him after that line of shit, he's cancelling his cable service after the next month, which was already paid up. the rep offered him a 60 day discount to avoid losing a customer. my dad, said great, now i have 60 days to decide which dish company to go with.

my thoughts exactly. 2 strokes don't necessarily require more rebuilds or scheduled rebuilds every 'x' hours of riding. if it ain't broke, don't fix it my buddy's '01 craptor just took a crap on him a few weeks ago. $1800 at the stealership to get it rebuilt with a vito's 686 kit.(??) 2 strokes are simple and a 4 poke has a lot of shit to go wrong when anything lets loose. but then again, in general, 4 poke motors do last longer without any rebuild maintanance. i wouldn't base which machine to get on motor rebuilds though. go more on riding style and which will suit your needs better. take care of either one properly and you'll get years of running good without major work to it.