MILO

nice looking ride! i wouldn't think those would be too good for trails though i barely fit thru some spots as it is.

if you haven't done it yet, you should follow the # sequence on the head when tightening it. and torqe it in increments. 10, 15, then finally 20lbs.

a mixture that is too lean can cause engine damage. but it really depends on what oil you're using. some are mixed up to 50:1. i mix yamalube 2r 32:1 without any problems. but i think your problem is with jetting being too rich, not fuel mixture. i always run ngk b8es.

i agree, definitely get a clymer's manual. it'll be the best $30 you ever spend on the shee. there's a small circlip on each side of the wrist pin that sits in a slot in the piston. there is a small open area in the piston where you can fit small needle nose in there to pull out the clip. make sure you have some rags covering the crank opening in case you drop the clip or you'll be into more than the top end.

sounds like your running rich if it ran better without the filter. do a search on plug chops to check your jetting. may also need to change the needle setting. do a search in the jetting forums, you'll find what you need. if not, post up again there. 32:1 should be fine, but it depends on what oil your using.

you will get a little better air flow, so i'd double check your jetting w/a plug chop. also, without the snorkel, it's a lot more likely to have crap get into your air box. i had 10x the dirt, bugs, and shit from weeds etc. and that's no good with a stock pos filter. i put a piece of fine window screen over the end of the lid to keep it all out and it worked great. also had 12 uni filters in the lid. but that gave me a taste of the power gains from increased air flow. so i ditched the lid, (using a pro design adaptor/filters), rejetted, and never looked back.

yeah, they're pretty easy to install. there's a simple step by step instruction with the noss head. it's really simple. just be sure to torque the nuts in the correct order, and in increments, not all at once.

there real cheap bud, hit up a local stealership or good auto parts store. i'm sure it's cheaper and 10x less hassle than some special tool. get a new zerk and grease away.

that would be my guess. better fix it quick or you'll be putting on another new set of chain and sprockets.

i don't know guys, the fact that is has a working dual exhaust, a fully functional motor, aftermarket quality handgrips, good knobs and strong and durable plugs in the tires, oh, and how could you pass it up knowing that it will keep up with a 400ex? you guys will regret not jumpin on this one. my bid is in.

these kinds of things always seem to happen in 3's, so look at it this way, it should only get better now.

you definitely want to press them in and not hammer,even tap them in. i do all my bushings/bearings with the vice. the key to longevity is keeping them lubed up really well. especially if you ride in really wet conditions or cross creeks often. i grease mine up before every major ride and they hold up pretty well. grease is a lot cheaper than new bearings.

i guess it just depends on how much you can tolerate the slippin and slidin. if your climbing hills, it won't take much to be wanting some new treads. i just waited until i had holes poked in the sidewall of one, which didn't take too long anyway. my ps bandits have taken 10x the pounding the stockers did. but it's entirely up to you, your riding style and your budget.

yeah bud, get a big ass breaker bar, or if that's not enough get a longer pipe and slip over it for more leverage. the handle from my floor jack over a breaker has gotten many a bolt loosened up. air tools are a definite plus to have. it sure does make things much easier and quicker.

ok, i understand your measurement technique, and thanks for the tip. wouldn't i be just as well off to just go with 19cc domes and see what happens? after retesting with another tester, that is.

cool, it sounds like you know what you're doing and being smart about it. if you haven't been on the street yet, it's a whole different ball game bud. you really have to watch out for the other idiots on the road cuz it seems they sure aren't watching for you ride safe, ride smart, and have fun. it is possible to do all 3 at the same time

some people will never learn

1. some real skid plates 2. air filter that actually filters 3. pipes that flow and sound sweet 4. reeds 5. suspension

carb bowls switched or crossover tube missing??

belray gear saver 80wt. been using that since the first oil change after i bought it new in '01. we use it in my nephew's blaster also, since it was new in '03. no problems with either one.

that's the kind of fixes we like-easy and cheap good to hear you figured it out.

make sure the clutch is adjusted properly at the clutch itself first. if it is and you are still out of adjustment at the lever, then i'd suggest getting a different perch and lever or cable, rather than change the adjustment at the clutch to compensate. that would probably just either burn up your clutch, or it won't engage/disengage right to begin with.

my first thoughts were this post should be in the roostin room happy b-day bud

if that's the same quad i saw on tv once, that gold stuff on there isn't just some perty coating, its actually gold plating. the guy had like almost $50,000 in that ride.

$2400 a year for insurance damn, that's about what i pay to cover 3 vehicles, my cbr600(f2), banshee, and the house combined. full coverage on everything. my '92 cbr was never more than about $365 a year, full coverage, even when i bought it in '96, and 22 years old. 17 and riding a 1000 you better have some skills and a sensible head on your shoulders bud, or your gonna lose them both.