MILO

maybe not the best pics, since it's muddy and stuff... the chain pretty much rides on the entire length of the slider all the time, but it seems to wear very well. http://www.uppracing.com/

when my lever pull got really tight is was the bearing for the push lever assembly ( where the cable connects at motor) the seal wore, dirt got in, needle bearings went to shit and were binding up on the shaft. new push lever assembly and bearing/seal, cable, and it's really smooth again.

the peg on the end rests on the top side of the swinger

you need to hit up the jetting forums bud.

yeah bud, it's most likely the e-brake. make sure it's not set or sticking, unhook it all together if necessary and get a block off for the rear caliper. those e-brakes are a worthless pos :yankyank: .

absolutely the 1st thing you should spend $$ on for your shee :thumb:

i got mine from UPP racing. chain slider kit includes the rollers, slider and rear guide, or you can buy them seperately. the slider is a bit tricky to get on at the swing arm pivot, but after the initial installation, it would be easy to swap out if needed. mine's worked great over the past 2 years. i don't think i'd ever go back to the stock style.

rj, i know how you feel. my wife and i went from both of us working and each making decent money to having 2 kids and her staying home with them. cutting the income in half + adding 2 kids and a family vehicle payment sure does require some budget changes. even minus the extra expenses from her running to work, babysitter, babysitter costs etc., it's tough. one key thing we did though from the beginning was try to keep our bills at a level in which if only one of us was working, we could get by. and it's a good thing we did. yeah, it's tight with one income, but we've made it work. we did build up a savings when we were both working and have tapped it a few times, but nothing major. we've both given up some things ( like extra $$ for the shee, dammit) but the kids having mommy all the time is priceless for them, and for mommy. they are all much happier, which means dad is a lot happier too. the bills are paid, we never run out of anything, and the family is happy, but there's not much extra to go around. if it's too tight, you just have to decide what things are most important to have and what you can do without and live according to your income. oh yeah, and i avoid using credit cards as much as possible.

haven't had any problems with my v3's yet either, just installed about a month ago though.

wtf is he talking about? i think he's been sniffing more gas than he's been burnin in the shee.

those look like something you'd see in a michael jackson video

ok, i see where you're coming from. i honestly can't rate a 450 for example cuz i've never ridden one. but i'll take your word for it.

2.50-4.00 from a local stealership. i guess it varied depending on size, or maybe the guy needed extra money for lunch that day

jetting is fuel to air ratio... increasing fuel with maintaining air level is making it more rich - increasing air flow while maintaining fuel level is making it more lean adding more oil to the gas makes the premix more rich, not lean.

shouldn't you do a plug chop before changing the mains?? maybe it's just rich in the middle, so moving the needle is all that needs done. if it's rich, it's probably loading up and sputtering somewhere throughout the throttle, which would determine exactly where the change needs to be made.

generally, you get what you pay for bud. i've bought one chain for my shee since it was new in '01 and i'm glad i spent the few bucks extra on a d.i.d. atv x-ring and i'm sure i will be next time also. of course chain wear/life is entirely based on how badly it's abused, but i'm gonna stick with did's, it hasn't let me down yet.

exactly what i was thinking... congrat's on the successfull rebuild - it's really rather simple isn't it. you gotta love 2 strokes

i've always used a little dish washing liquid to help them slip on easy. mine haven't slid off yet after about 2 years they may twist a bit over time, but they are on there pretty tight.

i can see everything fine when set to 1024x768 without scrolling. being able to read the smaller print is a little more difficult though. but i'm gonna try it out and see which is worse, small print or constantly scrolling back and forth. seeing the whole screen with larger print would be nice though.

yeah, i know that feeling. my t6's took a lot of getting used to, especially with shifting - raised my shift lever quite a bit and missed lots of shifts till i got used to them. but i used to wear my old steel toe 8" work boots riding. big change, but now i love it and feel much safer in my t6's. besides, if they aren't somewhat stiff, how much good are they going to do you anyway?? one of my biggest reasons for getting boots was more ankle support/protection. once you ride a few times with them on, you'll forget that you're even wearing them anyway, you'll adjust to the change easier than you think.

don't let anybody tell you that a banshee is not a good trail ride. when you learn to handle a banshee in the woods, and manipulate the clutch and power band, you will not be disapointed. sure, a few bolt on mods will help- pipes, filter, shocks, tires, etc. and of course having the carbs set up properly. but a good rider can make the shee an awesome trail bike. but those open stretches to wind it out on is where shee will really kick ass though. i'd pick a screaming shee over the blah-blah -blah of a 4 stroke anyway.

this site just keeps getting better and better! excellent work lee it looks great.

i'd say about 6-8 ft at a local mx track. can't imagine doing that on a flat landing though. otherwise the average is about 3 and under.

same here

yeah, that's a real bitch of a job i've been told that the initial axle removal is the worst, after the first time it's not so bad. but i haven't had to take mine out again yet so but it is 10x easier to put back together. what about those zerks that just tap in with a hammer or something? do they seal up and work ok?