MILO

if you are really concerned with fuel economy, you picked the wrong quad to modify.. the more mods you put on it, the more hungry those carbs will be

sure is. i wouldn't bother welding it without getting it trued first. it wouldn't really make sense to do it otherwise.

the air box is very restrictive. you should get a pro design or similar adaptor and filter regardless of what you do, the stocker just plain sucks. when i just removed the snorkel, i put a piece of fine window screen over the lid opening to help keep junk out, which worked great. then i put in 12 uni 1" filters in the lid, which seemed to work ok. i wouldn't do much more than that for the water you are talking about getting into. but for normal trail riding, small creek crossings etc, you could loose the lid w/ a better filter. i also pulled the drain plug off the box so any water that does get it can flow right back out. of course, you have to be careful with deep crossings then.

i used to grind off the pins and punch them out, then use a small c-clamp to press it back together. sport bike o-rings chains are a real bitch sometimes to press together too. that works fine and will get the job done, but for less than $30 worth of of tools, chain breaker and chain press, it is a hell of a lot less hassle. i don't remember what kind the breaker is, but my tusk press works great. it looks identical to the motion pro but costs a lot less.

bump

if that's what it recommends the mix to be, then that's what i'd mix it at. i would make sure to run the old gas (2r mix) completely out before adding the full synthetic so you don't have a mixture of the two. why do you want to switch anyway, cost??

good one

i have pro circuits and they seem to work pretty good on the trails. of course there's also a lot of open trails, fields etc to open her up in and they scream on the top end also. some are rated better for top end, some for bottom end, pc's are one of the few that always come up for a good all around pipe. i'm happy with them. they don't sound like a rattling pop can or a kazoo either.

that depends on what you're riding in... foam is usually better for dusty or muddy conditions, k & n 's are better for sand or relatively clean environments

gear choice has a lot to do with climbing hills. practice enough and you'll be able to determine what gear and speed your shee can handle the hill in. but you definitely need to stay within the powerband. sometimes a slip of the clutch will keep the rpms up if it starts to fall off, but you also run the risk of breaking traction and getting stuck. the big hills i climb are usually in 3rd, but 2nd seems damn near unstoppable too on the short steep ones. climb every hill that you have the balls to hit and keep the throttle pinned and hang on. soon you'll be skating up hills in 3rd that you used to do in 2nd, screaming up hills in 4th that you used to do in 3rd. down shifting isn't bad as long as you're quick about it and avoid having to do it between 2nd and 1st. that damn neutral always seems to be there at the worst of times.

what about when you're rippin thru the gears, does it slip when you hit the next gear? this is really easy to tell on the road when you have better traction. mine would rev to the moon and not put much to the ground when my clutch was going out. it really sucked on hills. did the oil look like it may have been contaminated from the cooling system, milky looking? did you try to adjust it at the perch?? step #1 - buy a clymer's manual before you go any further, unhook the cable and push on the push lever where the cable hooks on at the motor until you feel resistance, or it stopping. the arrows on the lever and on the case should line up, if not it just needs readjusted. do a search on here for that. since you already have it apart pull the adjuster from the center of the basket/pressure plate. make sure it slides out easily and the rod and ball all come out as seperate pieces. tilt it on it's side or use a telescoping magnet to pull them out. unhook the cable and move the push lever arm where the cable hooks at the motor and make sure it isn't binding or anything. pull the pressure plate and check the steel plates for warpage or discoloration from overheating. there's a thickness spec in the clymer's if you want to measure all of the plates. check the basket fingers(where the fiber plate tabs ride) for grooves or notching. check the splines on the inner hub for signs of wear from the steels. check the pressure plate for stress cracks etc. replace anything that doesn't look good, all of it if you have the $$.

are the o-rings enough to keep it from swinging out all the time? that was partly why i just used the bungee cord.

mudpuppy, try some new plugs in her if you haven't already.

i heard the same thing about using all 6 hd springs with my tusk kit, but i did it anyway and it's really not that bad. i have a stock perch/lever with a motion pro cable

i guess that means you got it fixed. trailer lights can be a real bitch to track down a problem also. 9 times out of 10 it's a bad ground somewhere. or a worn thru wire casing that's making contact somewhere. dielectric grease definitely helps contact points or connections from corroding though.

i've been made fun of for letting my cars, bikes, quads warm up for a minute after the first start of the day before taking off. "what are you waiting for, it's 80 degrees out?" with the cars, they don't understand that i'm letting the motor warm up, not the inside of the car/truck thru the heater knuckleheads the heat cycles for a new top end make more sense to me.

maybe they're just pissed cuz they were made to stay in from recess that day??

i guess you'll have to weigh out the difference between the 4k-1600=2400 you'll have left to put back in it then, vs 4k to get a another shee and start building. i think i'd probably go with buying it back and fixing it up.

happy b-day bud

the plastics are fine, but you have to lose that seat cover it doesn't really match the bike. i'm not sure what an override tranny is all about either, but my first impression from the other 'doo dads' was that's not good to have a wicked ride like that and not know much about it. but you have it, and you're here now, so start asking questions about those 'doo dads' that you're not sure about before you do biff it all up. it looks like anything on that ride would not be cheap to fix or repair. pretty cool ride though bud

yep the little bungee cords work great too. that's how i cured mine. you could always just pull it off after starting it and toss it in a pocket or something, maybe even the old tool area under the seat. no more rattles, no more losing it. i've seen it done quite a few times.

if i had the $$ to throw at it at the time, i was going to get a complete hinson set up for mine, but that's around $900 if i remember correctly. i did buy the hinson basket though, and settled for a new stock hub and pressure plate with a tusk clutch kit. been working great for about a year now. but i have no idea what kind of hp i'm pushing, probably nothing to brag about.

hey speedie, i still believe that bad things come in 3's. the 4th bad occurrence is usually just written off as stupidity just kidding bud sorry to hear about your crash, but glad it wasn't any worse than you described. i hope the 3's deal isn't exponential for ya like the others said. that would really suck!! here's to better days ahead

i used a grinder and trimmed up the stock perch. figured i'd give it a shot before getting a new one. here's a pic after repainting it, and some use of course.