jbooker82 Posted August 21, 2007 Report Posted August 21, 2007 The other very important thing here is to do the jetting in order and only change one thing at a time. You always set the main jet first. If you get no response from the main because the needle is way whacked out, then set the needle. Always go in order if you can. Main, needle, pilot and air screw. Skip this order and you will chase your tail forever. That is so true. Only adjust one at a time, and in the order Snop said. :thumbsup: Quote
Dgrey Posted August 21, 2007 Author Report Posted August 21, 2007 Alright well i'll get some bigger main jets and test it out again. The biggest I had in there at 1st was a 350 so I guess i'll get some 360's and 370's tonight after work. This weekend I'll put in the stock stator and see if things are any better, but my concern is that my port builder recommends +6 on the timing and my ricky stator is connected to the timing plate so if I put the stock back in there then its stock timing. Well I guess if the bike runs right then the problem was either the ricky stator or the timing... can timing really make the bike run the way it is? Quote
RZBansheeMan Posted August 21, 2007 Report Posted August 21, 2007 I would think that any one of these components stator - cdi box - or coil could cause some weird things to happen. I have had vehicle issues that would cause misses under load but not at idle. Setting your timing back to zero with your stock stator was just a thought of "process of elimination", just because of all the issues several people have had with brand new RS stators. Quote
dajogejr Posted August 21, 2007 Report Posted August 21, 2007 Anybody post a link to the correct way to do a plug chop? If not...here you go. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html Looking at the end of the porcelin is not the way to tune mains. And...Dgrey...for Got's sakes. Can you shorten the subject line of your posts? It's the subject, not the complete technical explanation in this field. Plug Pics would've been perfectly suitable as a title..... Quote
Dgrey Posted August 21, 2007 Author Report Posted August 21, 2007 Anybody post a link to the correct way to do a plug chop? If not...here you go.http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html Looking at the end of the porcelin is not the way to tune mains. And...Dgrey...for Got's sakes. Can you shorten the subject line of your posts? It's the subject, not the complete technical explanation in this field. Plug Pics would've been perfectly suitable as a title..... LOL>>>>>>>>>>> Okay I start making the titles shorter!!!!!!!!!! =) I'll post up tonight if I have time to do a plug chop and all that. My jet ski is getting its 10 hour service done and I have to drive after work in mad traffic to pick it up so I don't know if I'll have time, I also need to purchase a hack saw. Yeah I have all the tools in and no hack saw. Imagine that. Quote
bigboybanshee Posted August 21, 2007 Report Posted August 21, 2007 This weekend I'll put in the stock stator and see if things are any better, but my concern is that my port builder recommends +6 on the timing and my ricky stator is connected to the timing plate so if I put the stock back in there then its stock timing. Well I guess if the bike runs right then the problem was either the ricky stator or the timing... can timing really make the bike run the way it is? You can remove the RS stator from the timing plate and re-install the stock stator on the timing plate. It's only 3 screws, very easy to do. Should take no longer than an hour total to complete the job. After reading your latest posts, your problem is either the stator or a major air leak, just my opinion. Don't give up, you're almost there! Quote
FasterThanU90 Posted August 22, 2007 Report Posted August 22, 2007 i dont see a timing heat mark on the ground strap.. usually it will be at the bend when the timing is perfect. yea ur plugs are not dark enough Quote
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