sgt seth Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 I'm gettin ready to hone a set of cylinders, picked up a medium grit cylinder hone, 54-110mm three stone hone. My father recommended using normal cylinder hone lube, but I dont really think I need to go that deep into shit. Just wonderin what everyone uses. And is medium grit gonna be too strong for a normal cylinder clean up? Should I buy some new fine pads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastrthnu Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 I'm gettin ready to hone a set of cylinders, picked up a medium grit cylinder hone, 54-110mm three stone hone. My father recommended using normal cylinder hone lube, but I dont really think I need to go that deep into shit. Just wonderin what everyone uses. And is medium grit gonna be too strong for a normal cylinder clean up? Should I buy some new fine pads? Pipe cutting/threading oil should work. a 400 grit stone or slightly smaller is good crosshatch scratch for beakin in new rings. Keep the oil on it heavy though. Have some one squirt it on while you drill save it in a pan with a magnet filter it and re use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheefreak Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 your just honing so you dont need cutting oil or anything.. i would just use oil you mix in your gas.. main thing is to clean cyls real good after honing.. to make sure you get rid of all small fillings/... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 There are several differnt lubricants you can use when honing. It all depends on the desired surface finish, your equipment, the material you are honing, and the hone tool itself. If you are honing at home with a hand drill on a cast iron cylinder sleeve a hypoid gear oil or Rapid Tap should get the job done. If you are doing something besides that, let me know and I can tell you what to use. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screaming Yellow Zonker Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 all the engines I have honed from Big blocks to small blocks and single cylinder engines all I have ever used was transmission fluid and mineral spirits. That is what my teacher in high school told me to use and I have had nothing but good luck with that mixture. Make sure you wash out the cylinder out with dish soap and water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 if your just honing to break the gloss.. you can use pretty much any lubricant... we used to use wd-40 on our go kart motors.... i wouldnt suggest this becase we rebuilt those things every 3 races... but you dont need any thing special... premix would work hell even atf... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 all the engines I have honed from Big blocks to small blocks and single cylinder engines all I have ever used was transmission fluid and mineral spirits. That is what my teacher in high school told me to use and I have had nothing but good luck with that mixture. Make sure you wash out the cylinder out with dish soap and water. Mineral spirits is probably good for remove the ropey finish left by the boring head all the way up to breaking the gloss off of a nicasil'd cylinder. There probably isn't anything wrong with using ATF, but I might worry about some of the newer spec. ATF's and having their detergent package gum up the stones (or cemented carbide). :geek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 if your just honing to break the gloss.. you can use pretty much any lubricant... we used to use wd-40 on our go kart motors.... i wouldnt suggest this becase we rebuilt those things every 3 races... but you dont need any thing special... premix would work hell even atf... WD 40 would probably be a very good choice for breaking the gloss off a new cylinder. I usually don't reccomend WD40 for anything, but between the previously stated case and lubing a chain for use in the sand, I will have to make an exception. Like I said before, if you tell me exactly what you are doing, what tools, and machines you are using. I will be happy to recommend a proper lubricant or bath. This is something I have spent a lot of time developing at work and it's one of my hot button topics. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00shee00 Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 Yeah, It depends what your doing with the cylinder? If your just breaking a glaze like these guys said wd-40, PB blaster. But if you are taking it to the next size you need something alot better, at the machine shop I work at we use mobil cutting oil in the CK-10 and rod machine. Iam sure you can get cutting oil at any good parts store. And if you are taking the cylinder to the next size alow it to cool and check your size again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polaris336 Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 i just had my cylinders honed on friday at my work, which is a Diesel Truck shop. The mechanic that did mine in our engine shop used 80-90 with some Clean parts washing fluid. he told me that it works as a lube and the parts cleaner gets rid of the residue.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 i just had my cylinders honed on friday at my work, which is a Diesel Truck shop.The mechanic that did mine in our engine shop used 80-90 with some Clean parts washing fluid. he told me that it works as a lube and the parts cleaner gets rid of the residue.... A heavy gear oil with an EP additive makes a surprisingly good ferrous metal cutting fluid in a pinch. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 i generally use some KY warming gel or some Vaseline if its around. otherwise i just spit at it. :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toybreaker Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 I just picked up another set of cylinders with a light glaze to them. They have .0007 in taper. max clearance to the new pistons i have is .0042 in. I am using a corded 1/2 chuck drill with a spring hone. It has the 2 levels on the drill body and i have an angle plate set up to hold the cylinders. I also used WD-40 in an air mister style coolant set up to maintain oil on the stones. On this set up what would you recommend for lubricant? I was thinking the cutting oil i use in my mill would work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamaha04 Posted March 27, 2007 Report Share Posted March 27, 2007 i generally use some KY warming gel or some Vaseline if its around. otherwise i just spit at it. :biggrin: lol yeah ussualy when im boring her out to the next size i use some good old ky or spit. ussualy spit lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireHead Posted March 27, 2007 Report Share Posted March 27, 2007 I just picked up another set of cylinders with a light glaze to them. They have .0007 in taper. max clearance to the new pistons i have is .0042 in. I am using a corded 1/2 chuck drill with a spring hone. It has the 2 levels on the drill body and i have an angle plate set up to hold the cylinders. I also used WD-40 in an air mister style coolant set up to maintain oil on the stones. On this set up what would you recommend for lubricant? I was thinking the cutting oil i use in my mill would work. What is the courseness rating of the stones you are using on the hone? Do you know what type os stones you have (cemented carbide, aluminum oxide, etc.)? You should be fine with a drill to do the honing. In your case it might be harder to use a mill to do the work IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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