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Clutch Replacement Tech Questions


jkross
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Hey guys,

 

I'm puttin in a HD clutch...metals, fibers and springs (just 3 springs though, thanks to the advice I've read in the forums.)

 

So: I've got the cover off and I'm at the point where I need to take the springs out. I'm a hack mechanic and really good at F@#!ing things up and want some advice for what are likely stupid questions before I proceed:

 

(I've been using BigRed350X's "Splitting the cases" pictures and descriptions as a guide...but I'm not sure I need to do everything just for a clutch replacement...and - I know..I know - I need a Clymer. I'm getting one...just couldn't wait before I started.)

 

1. Do I need to remove the "clutch arm" if I'm just replacing the metals, fibers and springs?

 

2. Do I need to do anything special before I take the springs out or remove the "outer hub."

 

3. Any good tips for keeping the engine from turning over while I'm trying to remove the springs and the center nut?"

 

4. Any good advice for cleaing all the stuck pieces of old gasket off the cover and case before the new one goes back on?

 

I plan on soaking the new metals and fibers in the new oil for about an hour before I install them. I've been told to use Redline - so that's what I'm gonna use.

 

Thanks for the help. As always - you guys rock!

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ok to replace your clutch...

 

drian fluids... pull your clutch cover... take off the springs...unscrew the clutch adjusrter in the center of the pressure plate.. pull the plate off slide the fibers out and replace them... put the news ones in and make sure they have been soaking.. and go in reverse... make sure you readjust your screw in the center and you torque the spings down..

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You dont need to unscrew the clutch adjuster nut to change the clutch. Do make sure it is adjusted before reassembly so your cable lever assy with the small arrow on the block lines up with the mark on the case when the clutch lever is just barely tensioned.

 

Also, on the steel plates make sure they are put in the right way. There is a rounded edge and a sharp edge, but I cant remember which goes down when put in.

Edited by Snopczynski
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You dont need to unscrew the clutch adjuster nut to change the clutch. Do make sure it is adjusted before reassembly so your cable lever assy with the small arrow on the block lines up with the mark on the case when the clutch lever is just barely tensioned.

 

Also, on the steel plates make sure they are put in the right way. There is a rounded edge and a sharp edge, but I cant remember which goes down when put in.

so if you dont losen it thn how the shit are you going to readjust it?

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That's awesome...thanks! Although You've just enabled my laziness and may have put me off buying the Clymer until the next project. :thumbsup: I haven't viewed them yet, but I hope there's torque specs in there as well. No I'm scared to over tighten...I'm really good at breaking stuff.

 

Thanks to everyone.

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also be very carefull not to over tighten the little bolts they only get torqued to like 7 ft lbs and strip very very easyly!!!

 

Hey - Thanks for the tip about the low torque specs. Thanks to you I actually took the time to check on it. So, in the spirit of actually adding something to this forum that somebody can search on sometime - that might actually do some good someday - I checked the torque specifications for the clutch spring bolts. The magic number is 74 inch lbs. of torque. And, to show what a mechanical loser I am - I had never even heard of inch lbs. before. I guess you learn something everyday...and my wife says all this thing is is a money pit. :confused: Now I can tell her it's an educational opportunity. :thumbsup:

 

Thanks again everybody. I'm going to actually be re-istalling the clutch soon and it is very likely I'll run into more problems...so, until later.

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