jkross

Thanks guys. Much appreciated. I bought every goddamn jet size they had. I'll start with 320's and see how they work. I'm just dreading f'ing around with it for an entire day. But I'm sure it'll be worth it...we'll be there for a full 7 days of riding...so maybe a day of wrenching won't be that bad.

All, Running 340 mains at sea level, headed to St. Anthonys for the 1st time ever. (I've searched but can't find any good answres with my setup) Full Port Cool head w/19cc domes Advanced Timing VF3's Pods CPI's Running full race gas. Anyone with a similar setup with a quick answer for the king of all procrastinators? My 2 stroke guru buddy guessed dripping to 320 mains. Is he crazy? Thanks for the help!!!!!!!!!

Exactly...plenty of power...ZERO traction.

There's a vid...see the "Florence 010" idiot hole vid....up in the vids section right now. So the very first few riding clips...they couldn't do that hill climb and make that sharp, steep turn at the end that you see us doing (they made the climb, but would high center and bury themselves at the turn. Nor could them make the idiot hole at the end. The vid doesn't do the steepness justice...nor the depth of the sand. To save you time...here's the link:

Just went on a trip with 10 guys...three of us (2 Banshees and a Raptor) had either Haulers or Extremes...there was nothing we couldn't climb,and we tested the hell out of our bikes...and ourselves. Don't know anything about Gekos, but Sand Stars appear to be crap as well...two 450's, a KFX 700, and two 400's with us all had Sand Stars....couldn't do half what the guys with Haulers/Extremes could...it wasn't even close...and it wasn't a matter of power with the 450's and the KFX 700...it was ONLY a matter of traction. As far as Haulers vs. Extremes go...both great. The Extreme's have a longer paddle (goes further out to the edge of the tire) and I've heard the paddle is much stiffer than the regular Haulers...and therefore, they're supposed to last a lot longer. My only problem is that I bought 20" tires...and I got a lot of chain-binding...whereas if I'd have bought 22" tires, it'd a been better...wouldn't have high-centered as much. But if you just need a cruiser tire to put around the dunes on...I don't think it matters much what you buy. Cheap is good if that's your aim. Just get out there and have fun.

All, Trying to clean up my controls. Got a nice bar clamp and need to hotwire the ignition under the plastic or something. Has anyone ever done this? Any advice? Which wires do I splice to which? Thanks in advance.

So - What cause the lean condition - that's a good question. I'd like to bounce this off you all. A guy I trust at a shop in Oregon took one look at my piston and was able to tell me exactly what I was doing when it blew. He said, "oh, interesting - found the flats did ya, I hope you won." Huh, I replied. He then said, "yeah, you can't do that. Banshees like the hills. If you're going to drag race, hit the top and let off. Don't keep running or you'll lean it out - sometimes as much as two jet sizes." Well, that's exactly what I did. I was drag racing on the flats, and basically kept it open for a while after I hit the top of top. I'd back off for a second at a time, but then I'd get back into it. I guess that's a bad thing. Does this track with what you all know? or should I look for addtional causes of the leaning?

Best advice I've read all day. Thanks man.

Here's one of the f'ed up top of the rod

Here's another pic. it's only letting me do one at a time. I'll do a couple separate.

hey Everybody...thanks for the info. Feeling much better about things after reading all these posts. Lots to consider. I was being a whinny little bitch when I wrote this last night. thanks for setting me straight. You all usually have lots of common sense advise. We'll see how it goes. going to try and clean it up. Wrist pin looked fine. When I say the Rod was scored, I mean that the top of it is rough...like metal has either been welded to it, or scraped from it...not sure which. the rod bearing...hole?...is perfect...not deformed at all. I'd just hate to spend that money and not be sure. I'll let you know what I decide to do. Thanks again.

Yeah...I guess I needed to hear that. I think you guys are right...dammit. Thanks for the honesty. Nobody ever talks about what money pits these things can be. $1,300 for the port work and all the upgraded parts (labor, V-force 3 Reeds, cool head, domes, bearing kits, gasket kits, etc...etc...) $200.00 for new chain and air filters and rear sprocket. $640.00 for New CPI's $500.00 (give or take) for the crank shaft $2,640 by my math - and no Cub kit! Bought it for $3,850.00. I believe this is what you call - upside down - equity wise. Sorry for the negativity.

I leaned out and blew a hole in my piston. Just split the cases last night, and the crank shaft is discolored. It obviously got really hot. The top of the rod is scored. there are metal shavings EVERYWHERE! A guy I trust said the center bearings can be flushed out with mixed gas. Should I trust him? Has anyone ever done that? Do I need a new crank shaft, or is the dis-coloration a minor deal? It was a trued and welded crank. I'll be running a Cool head with 19cc domes, an extreme port job with advanced timing, k&N Pods, and CPI inframes. Please tell me I don't have to spend another $500.00 on a crank shaft...that I can just rinse it out and it'll be ok. Thanks.

OK...will do. One follow up question: I agree on the lean part...not much doubt. But how? Air leak? What did you mean by air leak? The jetting's always been money. It was due for a top end for sure, but what would cause it to lean so suddenly?

Your only problem will be reservations...if you're only getting one site, you might be alright...but nearly every campground on the Oregon Coast books WELL in advance of summer. I called a few weeks ago and found three sites available at Horsfall in Coos Bay - didn't book...so give them a shot. Most you can book on-line or by phone. But whatever you do, if you're planning on camping, book a site before you go, or you'll be in a hotel. There's nothing like riding from your campsite - not having to trailer your bikes to a staging area.

Had the same problem last year...one of our fine Banshee-HQ'ers came up with some simple advice that fixed the problem and didn't cost anything...clean the carbs. Start there...it'll probably work...I hope.

Hey a couple things. First of all, I'll attempt to upload some pics of the carnage...and it is truly carnage. Can anyone tell me about the side without a hole in it...the entire top of the piston is black. Is that normal? Everything was done to this quad when I bought it in August of 06. The guy had every peice of paper for everything that was done to it...which is where I got the info. The head was reportedly shaved .60??? whatever that means. It ran so F'ing strong. I only ever go to the Oregon Dunes (Florence, Winchester Bay) so at sea level. Jetting...sorry to say I don't know. The plug checks always looked stellar on both sides...so I never worried about it. Guess I need to gain an understanding about how often to do the top end...after how many hours. Can anyone give me advice on that? Debating on sending the motor to FAST to have Jeff go through it. Going to do some simple upgrades...V-Force 3's, Cool head, timing plate...nothing radical. I'd do the work myself but not sure what this kind of failure means. The crank was "tured and welded" whatever that means...so is it damaged? How can I tell? I can see chunks of the piston down in the motor. How do I get those out? Can I without splitting the cases? Too many questions, I know. I'm going to talk to give Jeff a call later in the week, when he's not so busy, to discuss all this. So don't feel obligated to answer...but I haven't seen answers to those quesitons in the forums yet...(and I actually looked a little.) Anyway, enjoy the pictures (if they worked). The only good part is that I destroyed my buddy on his brand new Raptor 700...like it wasn't even there. It was a good feeling...until it went boom.

Hey guys...stand down. Sorry. I never believed all the posts that said, "just give Jeff at F.A.S.T. a call. and he'll take care of you." Well, in desparation, I called, and he answered the phone. He answered all my dumbass questions with a smile. He's one squared away dude. He's gonna walk me through it. Thanks for the help. Until later.

Hey Guys, bear with me...I'm not a mechanic. Blew my motor (the right side) in the Florence, OR dunes this past weekend. It gave it's life for a good cause, though - destroyed a 700 Raptor with a power commander and pipe...don't know if that's too big-a-deal, but I got a kick out of it. Anyway, boom - the right side blows and the motor dies. Being terminally stupid, I kicked it and it started, but only had exhaust out of the left side...so I shut it down. The spark plug looked to be cloated with a layer of near-microscopic metal debris...it was silver. Have NOT taken the motor apart yet. Anyway, this will be my first ever rebuild, and I'd like to keep costs down, but I'd also like to go a little bigger. Don't know if I can do just the top end, or if I have to do the whole thing. So Here are my questions: 1. If I can get away with just doing the top end, what parts, or which kit do I need? (I'd like to go bigger than the stock bore, but don't need to go to a Cub by any means...just want a little more. What are my options?) 2. If I have to do the whole thing (whatever that means) what do I need? 3. How the hell will I know the difference? IE...how can I tell which part of the motor the failure has affected? Right now I've got some basic mods: - a "mild port" - a shaved head - Stock carbs - k&N clamp on pods - FMF Fatty's I've been wanting to add the Vforce3 Reeds and bigger carbs...which I will during this rebuild. (Jetting questions to follow) So, how big can I bore it? Who should I have do it? How many different sizes are there to choose from, kit wise? Just don't know where to start. Thanks in advance.

Well, we went and it was amazing. Sunny and nearly 60! We rode in t-shirts and aside from my nephew's Blaster blowing up, we had a great time. The sand was VERY heavy on all North slopes, which made the hill climbs much more challenging. There was water running down the three main trails to the beach, and all the lowlands were pretty wet, but not as bad as I suspected. We always camp in H-Loop that last week in April, every year. We'll be there the 23rd through the 27th this year. We'll be in 392, 385, 388 and 381. There will be beer. Thanks guys.

Calling fellow Oregonians: Just looking to see if anyone's been out to Winchester Bay or Florence recently. I'm headed there Sunday and need to know if either is any better than the other. I know there's been an ass load of weather pounding the dunes...high winds and whatnot...Just need to know which is better right now...or if they're both torn to hell. Thanks in advance.

Good stuff guys...this is what I was looking for. You've all given me great ideas and I'll start looking into all that. Thanks for the link to the Trinity Carb setup...looks cool...and potentially an option down the road. I'm gonna start by looking into the porting, the timing plate and v-force reeds and see how that works. I'm assuming that once I do all that, there'll be a lot of tuning to do. And, honestly, tearing it apart is not a problem...but the tuning intimidates me a little...don't want to f things up and run it too lean/rich or otherwise. And, living in suburbia I can't come even close to opening it up to check the plug coloration...etc. So...I'll start tearing into it and report what I find. Thanks for all the advice and I'm 100% certain I'll have more questions in the future. But now I have an idea where to start.

Sorry for lack of info... Here we go: - not sure if it's advanced timing or not...how could I tell? Bought it with all mods aldready done. - FMF Fatty's - 8 paddle Haulers - Pump gas with Redline - Brand New Heavy duty clutch (no slippage) - gearing...no freaking clue. I"d have to go count by hand...could if it's that important and will help. That's about it. As for the head...it's not stock...it's polished by I'm not sure what brand. I have a receipt that say's 0.60...so that's what I'm going by. Sombody else mentioned the + 4 timing plate. Great Idea...How can I check that? I think it might already have it...but not sure. Thanks for all the help guys...keep it coming.

Gents, I got beat by a 450 this past weekend in Florence. Granted...I f___ed up the race - rider error. But even if I'd rode parfect, I think it'd have been a tie. Needless to say...I don't want that to happen again. But If I have to spend over $600 bucks...I guess it's gonna. So, maybe I'm just a cheap ass who's screwed. I should be heppy with what I have, but I have to ask. I've done searching on upgrades...specifically carb upgrades and I have an idea of what I should do, but I want to get specific for my setup. I have: - 0.60 shaved head (not a cool head) - "mild" port - welded crank - K & N pods - (no airbox) - +4 Lonestar - Cascade Billet Everything. ...that's about it. So, really pretty - just not a lot of motor work. My riding...Dunes only...Oregon - sea level. Carbs and Intake are bone stock. Ugly. The bottom line: Are carbs the next logical upgrade? Will a couple 35mm's make a difference? From what I've read...I don't have any warm and fuzzy feelings about a 2 into 1 setup. But, again..what the hell do I know. I just want to beat a 450 without a milled stroker. As I say in all my posts...you guys rock. Shear genius. I'd appreciate your help on this one. Thanks in advance.

I'd remove the airbox, get dual K&N Pods and avoid all water...Spoken like a true sand-only rider...eh? Sorry...don't mean to waste your time with a BS post, but couldn't resist...(water scares me.) The guys are this forum are the greatest...if they can't answer your question, no one can.