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Posted

Ok Now that I have some pipes on their way I now need one question answered??? Is there any special way to break in Cheetah Power valve motor?? All that was done was installation of new pistons, rings, needle bearing and wrist pin...typical top end rebuild. I broke in my '99 after I rebuilt the top end by doing the required heat cycles and by what the manufacture's manual states and haven't had any problems. I know Trinity has a write up on the break in process and the do's and don'ts but it states 10 hours of easy riding before really opening her up...Is that really necessay?? I did lube the cylinder walls with some 2-stroke oil before I installed the cylinders and I cycled the kicker a few times to make sure nothing was catching and everything moved fluidly. Just wondering if there were any "special" steps i should take in the break-in process.

Posted

LOL breaking in is so hard well for me anyway. i havent done anything special to my motor yet other then seend my jugs off today to get ported by jeff but i know if it was my i would be lik " HUMM shit 10 hours i wonder what this things got"

Posted
LOL breaking in is so hard well for me anyway. i havent done anything special to my motor yet other then seend my jugs off today to get ported by jeff but i know if it was my i would be lik " HUMM shit 10 hours i wonder what this things got"

 

10 hours of riding for me is like 2 weeks....I might make it to like 3 hours of riding before my wrist gets a mind of it's own and twists the throttle all the way open.

Posted
10 hours of riding for me is like 2 weeks....I might make it to like 3 hours of riding before my wrist gets a mind of it's own and twists the throttle all the way open.

 

10 hours, whats that like 3 takes of gas? Before I had the banshee we used to go on 8-hour all day trail rides. 4-6hr rides now on the banshee and i'm beat.

Posted

Do a search, I know there are a lot of threads about this very same question. I remember that you do a few heat cycles then check the torque on the head. You may want to ride it around for an hour or so to make sure the rings seat, then "ride it like ya stole it" :evil:

Posted

dude check it out- take the bike to sum dirt- sit on it kick it over keep ur hand on the side of the cyl. let it warm so u cant hold ur hand on it- kick it in gear and open it up through the gears- still moving click down let the motor go burrrr click down burrrr all the way and it will blow out all the metal it just shaved off the rings- repeat- let bike cool and retorque top end bolts and it should be good

Posted
Matt,I did three heat cycles and went threw a half a tank of gas and then went to the mountain.Had no problems with it for 1 1/2 years till I put the wrong fuel in it.

 

Yeah figured that's what I would do. I did the same thing with my '99 and have no probs either.....Tomorrow We'll see if it fires up.

Posted
why the fuck would u do heat cycles?

 

To get the piston rings to seat and to torque the head after the first heat cycle...I checked the head after every heat cycle for the torques

Posted

heat cycle as in letting the bike sit at idle till it warms to running temp?

Posted
heat cycle as in letting the bike sit at idle till it warms to running temp?

 

yup....The book states to start it up let it run till warm to the touch and then shut it down until cool. Start it again let it run until warm-hot to the touch and shut it down, re torque the nuts on cylinders and head. etc. etc. there's alot of stupid stuff in there to that you can skip......All it's doing is getting the rings to seat against the cylinder wall and create a good compression.

Posted

after the bike is heated up for the first time and re torqn everything is right on perfect! but letting the bike sit at idle isnt gonna make a good ring seal, all the rings are doin is goin up and down along for the ride touching different parts off the cyl wall there is not enough pressure spreading those rings out at idle to make a good seal.. go by the book if u want

Posted
yup....The book states to start it up let it run till warm to the touch and then shut it down until cool. Start it again let it run until warm-hot to the touch and shut it down, re torque the nuts on cylinders and head. etc. etc. there's alot of stupid stuff in there to that you can skip......All it's doing is getting the rings to seat against the cylinder wall and create a good compression.

Matt,When I say heat cycles I don't mean let the thing idle.Ride it with diferent throttle positions even going wide open is ok just don't keep it there for long periods of time.Find some place where you can get up some speed and down shift one gear and let the throttle off so the engine can create vacuum in the cylinders,Then shut it off and let it completely cool.Do this a few times and then ride it normally for about a half tank and then leter rip.

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