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Posted

I know theres topics about the ricky stator timeing plate, believe me, I spent the last hour trying to find good answers. Im tired so I just need someone to help me out. I have t6s, the intake filter and jets the pipes came with and v-force 3s (compl. stock motor). What SAFE timeing should I put it at without having to change fuel( I just use premium).

 

Next. After I have that in check and Im running it for a few months I want to get a noss head. What domes should I get thus raising the question, what timeing should I change it to in order to componsate.

 

THANKS :thanks:

Posted

if youre not plannin to run at least 50/50 race/ pump gas i wouldnt bump the timing any...i wouldnt take the risk for thefew extra hp youre gonna get..and same with domes. to run high compression domes you need fuel with more octane...

Posted

if youre not plannin to run at least 50/50 race/ pump gas i wouldnt bump the timing any...i wouldnt take the risk for thefew extra hp youre gonna get..and same with domes. to run high compression domes you need fuel with more octane...

Really, I didnt know that. Well, if I run 50/50 doesnt that mean I would definately need to change the head because it sounds like Id run the risk of damaging the motor. What timeing would I run with 50/50?

Posted

Most people do +4 on the timing, you shouldnt have to run race gas with that. Especially with your mods. I ran +4 with FMFs, and no lid on the airbox, and 320 main jets. Ran fine for over a year, no knocking. The reeds won;t add any horse, just better throttle response. As for the domes, I'm not sure, I never had a cool head, but I do remember posts about that, and if I remember correctly you can run about 21cc domes or so without leaving pump gas. To be on the safe side though, you need to do a compression check, I'm sketchy on this too, but I think if you go over 140PSI, you need race gas, not sure on the number though.

Posted

Really, I didnt know that. Well, if I run 50/50 doesnt that mean I would definately need to change the head because it sounds like Id run the risk of damaging the motor. What timeing would I run with 50/50?

no you dont need to replace your head to run 50/50 the stock head can be cut to raise your compression and cools just fine... your timing isnt as much of a factor as your compression ... timing will make you run higher octane when advanced many degrees but you need to worry more on your static compression of your cylinders first...

Posted

alot of that depends on elevation also i have t6s v force3reeds and k@npods also and added noss head with 20cc domes and ricky stator adjustable timing plate set at +4 degrees. i contacted mr noss before i purchased the head he was realy help full i ride between 2500 and 5000ft elevation he said race gas was not needed at this elevation but at sea level it would be i also talked to my builder he said the same thing . they both actualy said i could run 19cc but i stayed with the 20s just to be safe.

Posted

:beer:

alot of that depends on elevation also i have t6s v force3reeds and k@npods also and added noss head with 20cc domes and ricky stator adjustable timing plate set at +4 degrees. i contacted mr noss before i purchased the head he was realy help full i ride between 2500 and 5000ft elevation he said race gas was not needed at this elevation but at sea level it would be i also talked to my builder he said the same thing . they both actualy said i could run 19cc but i stayed with the 20s just to be safe.

Well, what if I want to be really safe and just set it at +2. Will there be any significant difference or should I just put it at 4. thanks for everybody help.

Posted

:beer:

Well, what if I want to be really safe and just set it at +2. Will there be any significant difference or should I just put it at 4. thanks for everybody help.

 

 

before i pulled my motor down i was running a +4 timing key.....the motor was box stock except the t5's &the timing key.....it ran ok on pump gas (93) but it would overheat.....

on race gas(110) it ran awesome and no overheating.......so race gas it is for me....just my .02

Posted (edited)

not starting a builder war on this subject............

 

 

but if you were to call and talk to anyone of them

 

they would recommend the parts it would take to get the max performance out of

your elevation(has to do with compression change with altitude)

pump gas

50/50

race

timing

stock crank weld/tru

porting

water pump impeller

stock head vs cool/noss head

pipes

lid / no lid

box/ no box

riding conditions

 

you want a straight answer?????????????????????

Edited by JET 99
Posted

not starting a builder war on this subject............

but if you were to call and talk to anyone of them

 

they would recommend the parts it would take to get the max performance out of

your elevation(has to do with compression change with altitude)

pump gas

50/50

race

timing

stock crank weld/tru

porting

you want a straight answer?????????????????????

Yea, I guess your right. I do ride above sea level and sometimes in mountains and I never tought about compression in that aspect. That might actually help me cause that would make pump gas work better in higher elevation than at sea level, am I right?

Posted

Yea, I guess your right. I do ride above sea level and sometimes in mountains and I never tought about compression in that aspect. That might actually help me cause that would make pump gas work better in higher elevation than at sea level, am I right?

RIGHT THERES A ELEVATION AND DOME SIZE CHART AT THE BOTTOM OF THE NOSS HEAD SITE THAT SHOULLD GET YOU CLOSE

Posted
:down: Between all the post at this point the question almost seems to be about answered but a two stroke machine is a temperamental beast when it comes to trying to gain a few psi. When you begin to change domes and fuel types you need to increase your sideline parts list,IE: Larger and smaller domes. MAine and piliot jets to cover you for not just altitude but temature as well. Even more so when riding in different altitudes and different temps throughout the year. You would really have to tune like a racer. On that note race fuel has it pros but depending on your riding they may not be worth it. You have to take a look at that. Having proper jetting to air flow available is key with the stock air box Uni-Filter plugs and a Foam filter you honestly don't have enough air to be pushing race fuel. It will work and will run. I am defiantly not saying it wont. You just wont get all you can from the fuel. So unless you want to play track mechanic then increase domes and head. Aluminum air box, And a CDI Box with the toomeys your going to get the exhaust flow and it will stay more reliable over the long term. I race and don't run race fuel. Cross county so reliability is the key for me. For drag guys. defiantly the race fuel. Market.. And by the way With a Dyna Fs CDI box there is no need for timing keys it can be programed to on the fly changes. Yaa i know it rocks
Posted

:down: Between all the post at this point the question almost seems to be about answered but a two stroke machine is a temperamental beast when it comes to trying to gain a few psi. When you begin to change domes and fuel types you need to increase your sideline parts list,IE: Larger and smaller domes. MAine and piliot jets to cover you for not just altitude but temature as well. Even more so when riding in different altitudes and different temps throughout the year. You would really have to tune like a racer. On that note race fuel has it pros but depending on your riding they may not be worth it. You have to take a look at that. Having proper jetting to air flow available is key with the stock air box Uni-Filter plugs and a Foam filter you honestly don't have enough air to be pushing race fuel. It will work and will run. I am defiantly not saying it wont. You just wont get all you can from the fuel. So unless you want to play track mechanic then increase domes and head. Aluminum air box, And a CDI Box with the toomeys your going to get the exhaust flow and it will stay more reliable over the long term. I race and don't run race fuel. Cross county so reliability is the key for me. For drag guys. defiantly the race fuel. Market.. And by the way With a Dyna Fs CDI box there is no need for timing keys it can be programed to on the fly changes. Yaa i know it rocks

 

 

What does pushing air/intake/filter type have anything to do with the need for race gas???

 

Compression and timing are the key factors for octane requirements...did I read your post wrong??

Posted

:down: Between all the post at this point the question almost seems to be about answered but a two stroke machine is a temperamental beast when it comes to trying to gain a few psi. When you begin to change domes and fuel types you need to increase your sideline parts list,IE: Larger and smaller domes. MAine and piliot jets to cover you for not just altitude but temature as well. Even more so when riding in different altitudes and different temps throughout the year. You would really have to tune like a racer. On that note race fuel has it pros but depending on your riding they may not be worth it. You have to take a look at that. Having proper jetting to air flow available is key with the stock air box Uni-Filter plugs and a Foam filter you honestly don't have enough air to be pushing race fuel. It will work and will run. I am defiantly not saying it wont. You just wont get all you can from the fuel. So unless you want to play track mechanic then increase domes and head. Aluminum air box, And a CDI Box with the toomeys your going to get the exhaust flow and it will stay more reliable over the long term. I race and don't run race fuel. Cross county so reliability is the key for me. For drag guys. defiantly the race fuel. Market.. And by the way With a Dyna Fs CDI box there is no need for timing keys it can be programed to on the fly changes. Yaa i know it rocks

this is what im getting at........

if you want straight answer talk to someone that will put their reputation and buisness behind what the sell and can :blink: do

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