stealership is stumped

[Capone]

I had this same problem.chased it for about a month.I had put a ricky stator on and the gap was to much between the fly wheel and the pick up.I closed it up and shee ran fine.try that.

501390[/snapback]

 

 

I'd try that, and also make sure your slides aren't backwards on your carbs.

[lowriderb]

since youve changed plugs a few times what did you have them gapped at?? because with my bike it doesnt like to have more than about .020's gap (alcohol) and on gas it always liked to be close as well, within .026''s... if your just taking the plugs out of the box and putting them in that could be your problem as well.. (which would go under the ignition subject), since the plugs would come from the manufacturer with a little bit different gap in them..

[Handyman]

[/]

I see that your post says TORS eliminator kit.

Edited April 13, 2006 by Handyman

[lowriderb]

could there possibly be two different size jets in each carb? mains, pilots and needles are exactly the same?

 

[Handyman]

could there possibly be two different size jets in each carb? mains, pilots and needles are exactly the same?

 

501481[/snapback]

I double checked myself and all the jets are the same size. That was one of the first things I did.

[Yaxy]

I vote CDI, I have 3 go in the past 15 years and everyone did soemthing different

 

1st one just quit

2nd one caused the motor to start breaking up when temp was over 70% (Ya I know that sounds funny but true)

3rd I am not sure, but quit

 

Chris

[KlotzBanshee]

I'd completely disassemble both carbs, clean and inspect the shit out of them, and rebuild them with meticulous attention to detail. Be sure all the jets are set right. Check float heights, inspect needles and needle jets for scratches and burs or bent needles, slides and slide bores, and synchronize them. Might take you an hour or so, but that would rule out a carb problem. Besides your carbs can never be too clean. If it

Edited April 13, 2006 by AssWhore

[lowriderb]

like someone else said have they checked the pickup clearance? or that it had good connections between the stator and coil?

[PUSH THE THROTTLE]

I agree the problem sounds electrical but if you swap the plug wires between the plugs and the problem stays on the same cylinder i would think it seems to rule out the electrical side of the equation. But you can never rule anything out completely. I have had something get into my carb that would cut out a cylinder just off throttle but run mid to WOT fine so it is possible that a carb circuit has an obstruction. You can clean a carb a million times but if you don't get the spec of whatever out of where the problem is it won't help. I'd blow out the pilot and main, check the float make sure the slide is in correctly. Lots of carb spray is your friend.

[Handyman]

I'd completely disassemble both carbs, clean and inspect the shit out of them, and rebuild them with meticulous attention to detail. Be sure all the jets are set right.  Check float heights, inspect needles and needle jets for scratches and burs or bent needles, slides and slide bores, and synchronize them.  Might take you an hour or so, but that would rule out a carb problem.  Besides your carbs can never be too clean.  If it

[racer]

yamaha dealerships tend to not know much about banshees......

501098[/snapback]

I second that, and I work for one.

[Handyman]

I second that, and I work for one.

501509[/snapback]

Well that just makes me even more unhappy I took it there.

[racer]

Well that just makes me even more unhappy I took it there.

501512[/snapback]

you may have had better lcuk with, dare i say, Trinity.

[Handyman]

you may have had better lcuk with, dare i say, Trinity.

501516[/snapback]

never dealt with Trinity......Are they just as bad??

[suzuki0702]

never dealt with Trinity......Are they just as bad??

501533[/snapback]

 

ohh god here we go...