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Posted

i went riding today and i have felt a small decrease in power in the last couple of days

 

so i jump this thing and when i land my bike sounds all fucked up. so i crank it back up to get back to the truck and just putted very slowly. then all of a sudden the tires lock up and it dies. so i put it in neutral and go to kick it over and BAM the kicker won't move. if i play with it by hand it will move down but doesn't feel like compression. i took the stator cover off and tried to spin the motor over by hand and it wouldn't budge

 

the bad thing is i this is the 3rd tank of gas that has been through it since i bought it. the guy i bought it from said that the entire motor had been redone not just the topend. i really don't think he was lieing to me. but i very seriously doubt the guy who redid the motor will warranty it since he didn't do the work for me

 

 

well any ideas? i think i will just have to pull the motor off and take it apart myself. pretty shitty since i just got the damn thing

Posted (edited)

i'm praying that all i need is a topend thats no problem. but i have never split the case's on a motor cycle engine before it would be a first. and i really don't feel like doin it

 

has anyone here ever had their engine seize because of the topend before?

Edited by joshv5.0
Posted

i have. my left side got real dicked up in an install, not sure how, and then when i was haulin mail WOT in 6th my tires locked up. so pushed her home, broke out the wrenches and took the jugs off to finf that the left one wouldnt budge.

Posted

man i'm prayin that the same thing happened to me

 

i really don't want to get into the bottom end

 

 

i'm just gonna take the topend off tommorow

 

maybe i'll take some pics and post'em on here

Posted

well i just pulled the plugs again to give them a good inspection ( the other time i looked i was pissed off and on the side of a trail in the woods)

 

the one from the left cylinder has metal shavings on it and may have gone a little lean. also noticed a tear in the carb boot that goes to the boost bottle on that side.

 

here's a pic

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Posted
whats the best way to clean metal shavings out of the bottom end when i get the cylinders off?

SCATTER IT!

If you just flush it.....you are taking a chance that there is something in there still you didn't get. You are dealing with bearings....they have to be 100% clean. Even a small speck will cause a roller to seize or drag, and that means instant heat at 8,000 rpm, which would mean rebuilding the whole thing again.

Posted
whats the best way to clean metal shavings out of the bottom end when i get the cylinders off?

A banshee motor splits top and bottom. Makes life alot easier, Get a manual if you don't have one. you'll know you got everything out and know how to tear the whole thing down.

don't forget you'll need yahamabond or something similar and a flywheel puller.

 

Good luck

Posted (edited)

well here it goes as i tore the motor down i found that one of the reed valves was installed upside down. on the cyl that [censored] up on me. the other side was just fine. i think that was causing a lack of oil to the bottomend. to make a long story short i snapped a connecting rod and i think i also bent the crank, because when i rotate the motor by hand i can see it rubbing the top of the caseing

 

any ways heres pics of the upside down reed valve and the rest of the motor

looks like i got alot of work ahead of me. i found a guy who has torn apart alot of shee's so i'm gonna let him gimme a hand with it from here

 

luckily i'm a mechanic with alot of good tools or i think this may have been a pain

 

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Edited by joshv5.0
Posted

I wouldn't use those cheesy hose clamps again either. You might get an airleak without sealing the carbs to the carb boots properly.

Spend the 4 bucks and get the right clamps. They are designed to fit around the carb boots for a reason.

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