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Carb Replacement


Fr33zypop

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I'm just throwing this out there cause I don't know what else to do. My carbs will not stop fuel from flowing out the tubes. I have replaced everything in both carbs with new float needles and I have verified the correct height of the floats. The last owner sucked and ran a lot of sand through it. Last year I had the engine rebuilt about found many problems but it runs great now. After riding I see fuel in the fuel filter but it will all slowly leak out after a day or so. 

I have a feeling enough sand wore down enough the float isn't seating right. Other than a small bore and other minor mods like pipes, reeds, and a modified air box its pretty stock. 

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Forgive me it my terms don't line up. I have put in a new brass part that is held down with a bracket and screw with a new one that has the o-ring, seat float. These were both new last year from FAST. My right carb was really bad last year until I replaced it but then this year I replace the left one. They both have a new needle as well. I checked that the one I had from the rebuild I saw a line around the tip of the needle and the new ones were smooth. 

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4 minutes ago, kawa110 said:

Replaced with oem carbs? 
Do the floats float? Remove from carb and put  in water. Make sure they are not retaining fuel and causing them from floating. 
Older brass floats will get pinholes in them or collapse. Not common with plastic floats though. 

Replacing with OEM was the next thing I could think of. I think mine are plastic bowls but I will try that floating test. 

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5 minutes ago, 375hp banshees said:

Yes, And inspect your overflow tube but I would loosen your cap 1st, you might be over pressurizing the seats. Make sure you put the correct bowl back on the correct carb, they are different!

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
 

I will try to loosen the caps tonight and try it out. I never thought about that. No heated garage and its in the 30s already here. 

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So the other day I opened the petcock and I could see gas fill the carbs and I've let it sit a few days and I haven't seen a drop. I haven't ran it in a while and its pretty cold up here so not sure.

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  • 3 months later...

I was able to get some warm weather to work on the banshee. After getting parts for a carb rebuild I went with a full kit for the rebuild mainly I was concerned about the needles. These were the only thing since I’ve owned the banshee I haven’t replaced. When I got the rebuild kit and the old needles out I realized what were installed were not oem and much longer.

I put the needles from the kit in and the clip in the middle. It fired right up but I saw it was very rich. I popped them out again and put them to the last notch to lean it out. It ran better but still very rich.

I’m wondering if I should put the old needles in but I’m worried they are the reason my carbs dump fuel out from allowing gas to continue to flow.

The carbs themselves show zero leaks from what I was originally chasing. 62c18168f7db7c3b264bd134fd468101.jpg
Is there a max length for needles on the stock carbs?

I had the clip on the top 2 of 6 notch from before and ran strong.


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what kit did you get? because those long needles are probably stock and the kit needles are probably bad. that's why I only oem carb parts (most of the time some things aftermarket are ok) needles will not affect if your carb is spewing fuel out the overflow its not possible. if you still have the problem of fuel coming out the overflow when parked, it can only be, pressure from the tank, bad float (sinking or not set) bad needle or bad seat. if your overflow tube is cracked or has a pinhole that will also make it leak out the overflow. 

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I got this off Dennis Kirk Moose Carb Repair Kit - 1003-0660. The seat this kit had a little thicker o ring that could of been why it was leaking but that one I had in there was only in 12 months and little use. 

 

I'm going to put the old ones back in later this week and see how it goes. The new needles have 5mm stamped in them if that helps. 

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Looks like Toomey needles next to stock needles and either needle won’t cause a fuel leak. Unless you stab the fuel tank with one. The longer needles have a longer taper and reduced angle.
Unless you are planning on opening your throttle enough for the needle to leave the dump tube, I found the stock needle much easier to tune with and have better throttle response than the longer needle with reduced angled taper.
The taper on those needles is longer and that seemed to have more of an affect on my mid range than I expected. The reduced taper opens the needle jet more slowly.


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