Head collant flow.

[ClaudeMachining]

I like geeks and goats.

 

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[AKheathen]

K, a lot of misinformation and assumptions, many of which were eventually corrected....
However, an engine does not automatically run better or make more power when it's cold. It is in fact the opposite. You can tune it to do so, but that is a different story. Burn rate slows, so yoi end up with incomplete combustion. This is not the same thing as colder air, which is more dense, and at times also has higher nitrogen saturation, which is actually a key player in expansion. A thermostat never helps it cool. Restriction does help, which is why, at the track, you run either a gutted thermostat, restrictor, or set flow dc pump to keep the flow rate down enough. The thermostatic system operates in 3 modes:
1 restricted bypass to not only heat soak (and warm the driver) but also to load the engine to create heat faster.
2. Using the radiator as a thermal mass where the engine is kept at the set temp (still building heat and sipping off the radiator mass till it reaches mean temperature )
3. Full circulation and active cooling. This is the optimum temperature in the range of 5 over thermostat to 20 higher, give or take....
And now back to the banshee. I, too have wondered about a thermostat, but only because I've ridden 10 below, and it had a he'll of a time getting warmed up after getting to the spot.
As for reverse flow, I wouldn't call it as simple as moving hoses around, space is a little tight, so you might have trouble getting it routed well without kinks or rubbing/interfering. One major point to concider is the fan plate that shoots coolant down into the cylinders as it enters. Does this with a high pressure redirection and inertia, so reverse flowing will loose that inertia, and you may end up with much hotter zones around the cylinders, as well as cooler. I would be interested in seeing this feature plugged in to the model, and run both ways.

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[n2otoofast4u]

Holly focking AK sighting

[ClaudeMachining]

K, a lot of misinformation and assumptions, many of which were eventually corrected....
However, an engine does not automatically run better or make more power when it's cold. It is in fact the opposite. You can tune it to do so, but that is a different story. Burn rate slows, so yoi end up with incomplete combustion. This is not the same thing as colder air, which is more dense, and at times also has higher nitrogen saturation, which is actually a key player in expansion. A thermostat never helps it cool. Restriction does help, which is why, at the track, you run either a gutted thermostat, restrictor, or set flow dc pump to keep the flow rate down enough. The thermostatic system operates in 3 modes:
1 restricted bypass to not only heat soak (and warm the driver) but also to load the engine to create heat faster.
2. Using the radiator as a thermal mass where the engine is kept at the set temp (still building heat and sipping off the radiator mass till it reaches mean temperature )
3. Full circulation and active cooling. This is the optimum temperature in the range of 5 over thermostat to 20 higher, give or take....
And now back to the banshee. I, too have wondered about a thermostat, but only because I've ridden 10 below, and it had a he'll of a time getting warmed up after getting to the spot.
As for reverse flow, I wouldn't call it as simple as moving hoses around, space is a little tight, so you might have trouble getting it routed well without kinks or rubbing/interfering. One major point to concider is the fan plate that shoots coolant down into the cylinders as it enters. Does this with a high pressure redirection and inertia, so reverse flowing will loose that inertia, and you may end up with much hotter zones around the cylinders, as well as cooler. I would be interested in seeing this feature plugged in to the model, and run both ways.

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My model is not acurate by now, but it will.


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