threequarterthrottle Posted June 15, 2015 Report Share Posted June 15, 2015 Understood. I couldn't see the necessity, but never hurts to ask. Removing the washer actually changes the position of the main jet significantly, bringing the needle much deeper into the jet. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12-o-clock-wheelie Posted June 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2015 Fwiw, my carbs don't have the plastic inserts(unless he's talking about the floats?) Necessary? My carbs seem to deliver the correct amount of fuel now that I rebuilt them, but of course now I have no spark(I've had this thing a month and still haven't rode more than a mile) I feel your pain dude Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk if you lost spark after rebuilding carbs check the the slides are in correctly and not caught on that pin...and why would if I put the ring on the left carb and now the right carb doesn't hhave the gold ring...why would the left side not run at all and the right side run like shit? I don't understand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threequarterthrottle Posted June 15, 2015 Report Share Posted June 15, 2015 No tors here, so the carbs shouldn't ever affect spark. I checked sync so I know they're installed and sliding correctly. I don't think the washer is the root problem in your case. It definitely needs to be in there, but may not be causing all of your symptoms. You do have verified spark at both plugs right? And you're sure you got the flywheel key in and aligned correctly? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tfaith08 Posted June 16, 2015 Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 There is a finite number of things that can go wrong. You need to have the carbs assembled as per the manual. Those gold washers will cause headaches. You need to start with a leak test for a longer period of time. 10 min will suffice. After that, take the carbs apart and reference te manual. Make sure you have everything set. Google everything. Set your idle and go from there. Sent from my over there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted June 16, 2015 Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 With "wasted spark" on a bangshee, it's hard to tell if the spark you see is TDC on the right or left cyl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted June 16, 2015 Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 Lol I actually nigger rigged my own tester out of a bike tire pump..and like 9 psi for minute or so?So, didn't you just say that you knew what you were doing? Clearly you have misinterpreted the whole leak down set up. Doing things this way^ is why you're having trouble. Do them right, not how you think they should be. Not trying to talk you down, but if you just keep cobbling you will always be sorting out your last fuck up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12-o-clock-wheelie Posted June 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 Shit man I'm not quite sure? I'm not to big into electrical shit best help I can is personally I'd just grab the multi meter and start testing everything...and I'm gunna get a new gold washer and monkey with it a little more see what happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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