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4mil cranks


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im leaning toward the vitos. can get one to my door for $400

 

if everyone wants to use hotrods thats fine. im just going a different direction. why bash a guy for that

fuck hotrods. you guys can use that shit if you want but im gonna use better stuff. just in the last 2 weeks i seen 2 hotrods cranks with broke rods. look around here. probly 50 bent, broke, destroyed hotrods. maybe the new gold rods are better than the junk grey taiwan rods. or maybe not. i could care less. never liked hotrods and im not gonna use their products. if you have pertinat info to the original question then post it. otherwise STFU

Because of that post.

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if you have 2 hot rods cranks rods break like that ( so easy you claim )  PLEASE CALL HOT RODS  i am POSITIVE they will want to see the rods and determine a failure.  they have ( in my opinion) brought back to USA all their rod manufacturing due to quality control issues i'm sure.  

 

if your not sure which webb to use  buy all of them and have them sent to a metallurgist or test them yourself.  i dont have any money or desire to determine which crank is the strongest so i just use what holds up.  ( hot rods 4 mill, stocker w hot rods rods on 350's and TDR"S forged 10 mill NOT the wsm forg)  i have seen lots of failures from fuck ups  and really only a few legitimate lower rod bearing fails  but they were on 10+ year old cranks. OR in a motor that was run lean from an intake leak.  ( hot rods crankshafts)  

 

MOST people on here have seen and heard the stories of multple multiple other brand cranks breaking rod ( you dont care you have BRAND X rod) AND a lot of metal type failures ( webbs coming apart at the big end thin side, stubs snapping  twisting out of phase from shit recycled steel i'm sure.  AND several of the BILLETS snap flywheel stubs off ( because of shit steel )  this is just what i have SEEN either from pics on the net  or watched happen right in front of me on the sand. 

 

to help you out  i dont know of to many that are pinned or keyed from the get go that i would recommend.  of course i have not tried any of the so called NEW vito's.  i do no know if they are keyed.  if your going o redo crank complete you really need to build a phase jig for pressing the centers together and for verifying proper phase to 0 degree. 

 

if you have the capacity i would recommend stroking stock webbs to 4 mill.  you can pick up toasty stockers for 20-40 bucks all the damn time. 

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if you have the capacity i would recommend stroking stock webbs to 4 mill. you can pick up toasty stockers for 20-40 bucks all the damn time.

Fuck, now this ^ just puts it all in to perspective. If you really wanna go through a solid core, that is a decent option.

 

RU, I'll buy those Vito's rods when you get them out.

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if i was gonna bother stroking stock webs i would rather use prox webs instead. likely theyre from japan also. its a shame the oem crank has the rod pin built into the web. guess you could cut it off and machine a new hole. think ill just go with vitos http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=11466&cat=200&page=1

 

you can have the rods. im sure theyre plenty strong.

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He won't just sell the webs neither will tdr, crank works will but they want 800 , I've used wsm parts for yrs without any problems or failures but assembly and overall package is key. I just put a 4 mil Vito's crank in a members bike I was actually impressed with it. I put good bearings on it and he likes it , and if anyone will break it he will so we'll see

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i like to use prox rods when ever possible. just my preference. vitos are likely just as strong from the looks of it

 

thats fine if vitos wont sell just the webs. maybe he can ship it unwelded. if not ill be grinding welds i guess. i have my own preference for bearings also. thinking of a tz on both ends. maybe 10balls in the center

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i like to use prox rods when ever possible. just my preference. vitos are likely just as strong from the looks of it

 

thats fine if vitos wont sell just the webs. maybe he can ship it unwelded. if not ill be grinding welds i guess. i have my own preference for bearings also. thinking of a tz on both ends. maybe 10balls in the center

youll be grinding welds, because they all come true and welded

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If your dead set on all this mumbo-jumbo why wouldn't you relocate a stock web? By the time you buy a 4 or 5 hundred dollar crank just to take it apart you could get a stocker damn near free and the money you save would more than pay for the machining. Then you would have a crank that is "all yours"

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I am very interested hearing about "Andys" cranks. I believe he is the owner of NLPS? Someone earlier had talked to him about a 7mil crank that he makes in house and to me it seemed like great quality for the money. Does anyone know the parts used in these cranks, quality, and reliability? Am I even talking about the right guy? Still new here and figuring out builders.

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