Can't get idle / carb sync tool

[four2err0r]

KoI just got the banshee back together. I'm not exactly sure how to use the sync tool. Can someone give a brief explanation..?

 

I can get it started but it will not idle. Set the air screws at 2 turns out I'm not exactly sure where to start with the idle screw.

 

I just rebuilt the carbs, #30 - pilot jets, #290 main, 1200 elevation (Chandler, AZ), Air box with no lid, YA3502 k&n air filter.

 

 

I also just deleted tors and installed the eliminator kit, new cable and thumb assembly.

 

 

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Edited May 26, 2014 by four2err0r

[wayne_smith97]

Run the idle screws in til it idles high and then back them down til it sounds good. Then use sync tool to fine tune them. Make sure you get the same reading on both carbs and your golden

[Joeladm]

This may sound stupid, but are the slides in the right way?

[four2err0r]

They have channels that make them go in the correct way right? In any case, the slide openings at the top were at the back facing the air filter....

 

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[four2err0r]

I have the issue screws all the way in and no idle. But I may be not understanding, do I have to push in thumb throttle and then thread it in a couple more times so screw is under the slide?

 

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[driftingbanshee]

Looking at the top pic the slides look flat? The opening should be a half moon shape but it's hard to see in the pic.

 

Looks like the could be in backwards

 

dont talk to morons you only educate them..

[hoppedupandcutdown]

Green circle - cutout that needs to face air filter

Red circle - ramp for idle screw (if installed correctly)

 

Sometimes you need to file more off the carb body to allow the idle screw to go in far enough to lift the slide.

 

[trickedcarbine]

That's a lot of pilot, what else is done to the motor?

[four2err0r]

Nothing else that I know of.

 

 

I believe they are in correctly. The idle screw opening lines up with the screw, and the "Half moon" faces air box.

 

Currently the lock nut is all the way to the front and the idle screw is set all the way in.

 

 

Not sure if the picture is good enough.. Does it needs a couple more threads ? Or should I focus on pilot and go down a size? This is my first time jetting.

 

Before this it had 280 mains and I could not read the pilots at all... Would not idle but would run if I kept throttle in it. Both pipes got hot, fairly equally. Left side was a little hotter after a couple minutes... but again I just had to hold the throttle. With the sync tool I just held it up there to see what it was doin...I held throttle steady and left carb was reading like 1 while the right was around 7-7.5.

 

But that was just me trying to act like I knew where I was going heh.

 

Was trying to go ride today but not sure I should like this

 

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Edited May 26, 2014 by four2err0r

[camatv]

after you get the idle set  ( it will probably be around 4-6 on that synch tool. )  you need to set your cable pull.  this is one of the things i think a LOT of people forget.  looking at your pic one cable adjuster is way up  the other is bottomed out.  i personally screw them in all the way  then set by eye that they are pulling up pretty close.  then after you have your idle set up and your slow jet is the right size ( by listening to the motor using the idle air mixture screw) you can set the cable pull.  i give it a very small amount of throttle  enough that i can see the sych tool raise up  then hold it at that throttle and switch back and forth on the carbs.  one will be lower than the other  adjust the tops till they come just off idle at the same reading.  tighten the adjuster nuts

 

 then set your cable slack.  you want a small amount of slack for turning but not so much that you have to push the throttle cable in a ways before it rev's.  this is with the adjuster at the thumb throttle.  THEN if you still have it  the throttle stop screw can be set.  push the thorttle in till it bottoms out  then adjust the stop screw in till you feel it hit the thumb lever inside the housing.  then adjust it in just a tad  then you are hitting the stop instead of pulling on the cable.  your cables will last a lot longer by doing this.  and of course  set the stops nut that keeps it from moving. 

 

if you get your idle set dead on you will hear a difference in the way the motor sounds  it will also come off idle a million times better when your riding it.  this small tuning aid ( synch tool) is one of the best you can get and use. doing this completely will result in a much better running and more reliable motor.    y9ou can go back about once every few months and check it again.  things move around and those lil stop screws wear some too.

[four2err0r]

Thanks camatv

This is how it turned out...

 

 

the left side gets a little bit hotter and puts out more smoke than the right

Overall it sounds good to me but I'm new to the game and just want it to be fine tuned

#30 - pilot jets
#290 main jet
clip is 3rd notch down
-Air Screw
Left carb - 1.5 turns
Right Carb - 1.75 turns
elevation 1200

[camatv]

ok in the vid iit looks like the idle is ok.  sounds really close on the throttle pick up.  

 

after you set the throttle  do the cable pull.  if you like  make a vid of doing that.   if i was better at making vids and could figure out how to post them i would make a nice synch instructional.   hell i could do a whole " tune yo shit up " series HA

[four2err0r]

Lol I can help out with that, it's easy! I'm sure there is an easier way but this is what I do...

 

Use my phone to make video, and upload to Google Drive.

 

Then I put it in my computer

 

Then I use my same Gmail / drive account to upload it to YouTube.

 

I don't have the experience or knowledge yet, but eventually I'll do some more detailed how to videos.

 

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[Strm Trpr]

shouldn't the airscrews be turned out the same number of times?

[four2err0r]

Update on that Strm Trpr, they are both at 1.5 right now. Going to post another video of some runs on it today after work...

 

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