Newcs222 Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 I'm slapping a pro design cool head on tomorrow. All I have is stock head nuts. Do I need acorn nuts? I hear a lot of ppl have issues with leaks. I was thinking of just using 1211 case sealer on the nut threads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstaton1983 Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 I use oem nuts with no problem. There is an o ring at every stud any way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newcs222 Posted May 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 That's what I figured. Do you use gasket maker on the threads? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 no Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCW Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 You need longer studs for the pro design heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newcs222 Posted May 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 I've got the studs installed Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 Just use the o-rings. No sealer. Go slow when dropping the head. If it won't go down, there is an issue. Also, when dropping the head on some times the o-rings on the bottom may drop down. A dab of grease ran over the o ring will keep it stuck in the groove. Once you get the bottom shell about 1/4 inch from seating, shine a light between the head and cyls to make sure the rings didn't drop. Then once the bottom section is on, put the little o rings in on each stud and install the thin upper top piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskool Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 That^^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2004LEBanshee Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 Yea white lithium grease is the key. They stay pretty well with it. Follow the torque pattern and youll be good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstaton1983 Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 Don't go overboard with the grease cause when it compresses it can possibly crack your cylinder. Use common sence. Lithium works great and is not so thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newcs222 Posted May 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 Alright. I have the engine out of the bike which makes it easier. I can tip the engine up so the o-rings stick to the cool head better. So torque specs are the same with a cool head. 20 ft/lbs? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newcs222 Posted May 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 Update. No leaks at all! Stoked Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paisaroni_mario Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 Did you slap the pro design cool head onto a stock bike? And how big did you go on the domes.. Just wondering if you don't mind Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newcs222 Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 21 for the domes. Not stock. It's piped, time advanced, pod filters, 280 main and 30 pilot jet Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paisaroni_mario Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Cause I bought one with 20 cc domes, right now I'm currently piped, pod filters, tors removed, vforce 3. And I was just wondering if I can throw mine on already.. Seems like you did. Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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