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Hp and Chasis correlation


kshoulde35

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Everytime people say a stock chassis won't handle bigger motors I think of those videos Tyler, or hell even a modified stocker.

 

Yea, it's really fucking stupid considering half the drag chassis you see at the sand are modded stockers. 

 

As long as the motor isn't twisting there will be no issue.

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Timing of jumps is definitely an issue up north. Those fucking guys have no idea how to build proper jumps. I've mentioned to them several times about getting their heads out of their asses but it falls upon deaf ears.

 

Throwing chains is simply a motor twisting issue. Not that I ever threw a chain, but before I designed the motor support I would have issues with the chain getting loose as fuck after a run. It was because with that much motor and getting traction off the jumps, it was twisting the motor. The motor support solved that problem and there's never been an issue since then.

What's this motor support your talking about?
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Maybe the real question here is about hp vs wheelbase and motor placement in the chassis. at what point do you need to stretch the bike more than +3 out the front? 120-130hp? and looking at some chassis the relationship from sprocket to swingarm pivot looks to be 1-2 inches larger than stock. whats that all about? the last thing ive been wondering is this, what places more load on an engine? jumping it in the hill climb examples or launching with a set of rippers and a wheelie bar on a good strip.

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Yes. That's what I designed it for. There is really no better bearing support anyway.

 

Really? Could have fooled me! Seems pretty stupid to have to pull the shifter just to change gearing! For you non tunning fucks it might be ok, but if your under time constraint thats just another step to go through when your trying to get back to staging for the next round.

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Yes. That's what I designed it for. There is really no better bearing support anyway.

 

Really? Could have fooled me! Seems pretty stupid to have to pull the shifter just to change gearing! For you non tunning fucks it might be ok, but if your under time constraint thats just another step to go through when your trying to get back to staging for the next round.

I've found it to be easier to swap the rear sprocket. It's better for fine tuning anyway. The only time I change the front is for the sand.

 

So, shut up.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got a picture somewheres...

 

Truth be told, we used stock cases and often the rubber bushings are pretty beat up.

The torque would case the cases/motor to twist in the chassis and fling chains, etc.

The idea is to have it loosely mounted but if it moved a bit, it would stop it from going too far.

The sprockets want to "creep" towards each other under load/stress. 

My next build...will be in a new Wheelman chassis and it'll have a bearing support from Chariot.

I won't need it due to the frame design.

 

Pic here.

pict0006fgp.jpg
 

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