Jump to content

Tuning stock carbs


Recommended Posts

Hey everyone

I just installed a complete TORS elim kit. The carbs have had the idle screws drilled and tapped in. I have been messing with this thing for 2 days and I cant get it to idle. It starts fine but unless I feather the throttle, it will die. Ive taken the carbs apart and cleand them twice. It idled fine up until I took the TORS system off.

 

Just installed PT Mid Revs with 280 mains. Everything else is stock.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

T

Edited by tmecars
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I just installed a complete TORS elim kit. The carbs have had the idle screws drilled and tapped in. I have been messing with this thing for 2 days and I cant get it to idle. It starts fine but unless I feather the throttle, it will die. Ive taken the carbs apart and cleand them twice. It idled fine up until I took the TORS system off.

 

 

Did you remove the TORS Control unit (the little black box screwed to the frame above the left carb)?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds a lot like some clogged pilots. What size pilots are you running?

Some other things to check are,

Clogged petcock

low float level

Air leals after the carb

Air screws 1.5 turns out

Make sure your not to tight on the cable sdjusters on the carb caps

Also make sure you got the correct float bowl on the left carb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the pilot jets are factory. I will pull them and make sure theyre clean. I definitely feel like the air screws are sitting properly. I did NOT remove the TORS box...I will do that asap.

 

thanks so much everyone

Do the TORS box first. In fact, if you can hold the throttle just a hair in and the engine runs, I guarantee it's the TORS Box. You can open the throttle lever box on the handle bars and watch the switch contact. As soon as that switch is pressed when you release the throttle, the engine will quit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do the TORS box first. In fact, if you can hold the throttle just a hair in and the engine runs, I guarantee it's the TORS Box. You can open the throttle lever box on the handle bars and watch the switch contact. As soon as that switch is pressed when you release the throttle, the engine will quit.

Once you remove that box, Go back and read the instructions: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=132136 carefully and check the carb slides. I didn't think to tell you, after you check to make sure they're "bottoming out", check the idle screws depth by turning them to make sure they'll lift the slides. Wasn't an issue on the set I installed but there was just a guy on here having all kinds of grief b/c he didn't file down the posts that you tapped for the screws enough. I filed mine just enough to make them flat and no more. You may need more.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had same problem with stock carbs with tors removal not idling right.... must have pulled them apart 10 times changing jets adjusting air and idle screws. Nothing seemed to help. I asked around and found that if you remove the stock carbs and through those pieces of shit in the trash and get new bigger carbs problem went away! Don't bother with 28mm carbs get 30mm or 33mm you will need them for future mods.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Stock carbs are fine and often underestimated.

 

The problem was you.

 

 

Really pal? Are you runnig stock carbs? Why are they one of the first things to get upgraded on bikes? I thought the guy might like to save a headache and money and just do it the right way by upgrading instead of grinding and rebuilding carbs that are too small to begin with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Really pal? Are you runnig stock carbs? Why are they one of the first things to get upgraded on bikes? I thought the guy might like to save a headache and money and just do it the right way by upgrading instead of grinding and rebuilding carbs that are too small to begin with.

 

Yo, it's getting little hot in here guys. Personally, I think the stock carbs are just fine too. The guy who asked is obviously a newbie (and so am I) and to be honest with you my Banshee's running smooooth as anyone could ask for AND is PLENTY fast for me (for now). The pipes, open airbox ,[what I think is a] mild port job and VForce 3 reeds are all I need. If the stock carbs were that big of a restriction, the reeds wouldn't have made such a HUGE difference across the whole range of throttle. Also, a bigger carb will tend to decrease the response on the bottom end. Just my newbie two cents worth.

 

TMECAR, don't be put off by this, it's not typical. I've learned an enormous amount of stuff on here (thanks to all). Now you guys kiss and make up :cheers:

Edited by muggzy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Really pal? Are you runnig stock carbs? Why are they one of the first things to get upgraded on bikes? I thought the guy might like to save a headache and money and just do it the right way by upgrading instead of grinding and rebuilding carbs that are too small to begin with.

Yes really. Instead of jetting/adjusting your carbs, you bought bigger ones. The problem was you IMO. Judging by your mods in your sig, you dont NEED 33's. You bike would run fine. But it also runs fine with 33's im sure. Again, you stock carbs where fine. Not all of us can afford to spend money on bigger carbs so we will rebuild stock ones and get them working because it's a cheaper alternative. And when we spank big carbs bikes, it feels even better.

 

People upgrade them for many reasons. Some are: they want more performance, to fallow the crowd, because someone said so, tired of taking the bowls off to change jets, found a good deal on bigger ones. I went with 30mm carbs to keep my low end power and i got a great deal on my carbs. So what you said about going with 30 or 33 may not be ideal for everyone set up.

 

IMO a person should talk to their builder and see which carb will perform best for their riding style, set up and port job.

 

muggzy, i run VF3 reeds on my bike. I love how crisp the throttle is. I personally hate the feel of stock reeds on a banshee.

Edited by RagunCajun
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Really pal? Are you runnig stock carbs? Why are they one of the first things to get upgraded on bikes? I thought the guy might like to save a headache and money and just do it the right way by upgrading instead of grinding and rebuilding carbs that are too small to begin with.

The only carbs that have ever been on my bike are the ones that Yamaha put on it when it was new. They have been bored to 28mm for the last 17 years or so and work awesome, plus I can get parts for them anywhere. On a 350, big carbs are way overrated and totally unnecessary, you just end up with a motor that is real boggy on the bottom end of the powerband.f you learn how a carb works and take the time to dial them in the stockers work great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...